I pulled-out the cables from the motherboard for power switch, power indicator & discovered it was not ganged as single socket instead the wires was connected individually, the problem is I can not remember where the respective wire should be, can you help me identify the where the connections for respective wire should be?

You have 2-gang switch.
Look at following illustration showing gang switches:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

Hot wire feeds one screw on first switch, and then jumpers to second switch.
Your jumper wire is connected wrong place.

Find hot wire... there will be 1 hot wire entering gang box.
Disconnect all wires, and separate for testing.
Turn power on and test each wire to bare ground wire... that will show the hot wire.

Sorry it is difficult to post question on fixya, or communicate with people answering free questions.

Gene h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

yes, cut the wire about 18" - 24" from the plug end, then install a regular wall light switch in an outdoor style weather proof single toggle switch gang box. Available all day at your local DIY Center.

I have done this with portable pumps that I take with me on the job site at times. I do something a little different by taking one extra step for safety reasons. I use a "Double" gang box instead of a Single and install a GFCI outlet next to the switch where the GFCI is wired first and the switch is wired in after the GFCI so it is protected from any possible shock. and the pump will be protected as well.

Good Luck

Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-gang-box-800.jpg

You have to test which wire is neutral.... usually white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut in back of box.
Hot wire with test 120volt to neutral.
Hot wire will test 120volt to ground.

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hi John,

I'm an electrician and can help you with this question.

The *best* way to plan for this fixture is to install a "3-wire" cable (romex, bx, etc.) designated as "14-3" where "14" is the size of the conductors and "3" is the number of insulated conductors. A "three wire" cable consists of 3 insulated conductors (white, black & red) and an uninsulated or bare conductor. Sometimes, you may find that the cable has 4 insulated conductors and instead of a bare conductor it will be covered with green or green with a yellow stripe insulation. This 4th wire is the ground wire (insulated or not). Either type of cable is acceptable for use.

By installing a 3 wire cable, you will not be required to use a "special switch" or an "RF switch" which are often much more expensive to purchase and more involved to install. You can use two independent switches, consisting of a variable dimmer for the light and a speed controller for the fan, simple "snap" or "toggle" switches or any combination of both if you install into a "2 ganged box". If you opt to install a single gang box, your switches will be needed to be on a single strap (often called duplex switches) and your choces for control will become limited - and likely more expensive, too.

If you run a 3 wire cable, you can install your choice of switches, if you install only a 2 wire cable, you will be forced to use special switches or a standard switch and a pull chain on the fixture (this option is only available to you if there is a constant power source at the fixture). It will cost a little more for the 3 wire cable, but it will provide the most flexibility when selecting fans / switches.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!

Check to see if the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply.
Bypass the Power On switch.

http://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/GC-LE/P4DL6.cfm

[For the motherboard user manual;
Go to the heading, to the upper right in blue - Links and Resources.
{Don't believe we can use the Ampersand on here. Let's try & }

In the list below it click on - Motherboard Manual
Click on the blue - [ Download ] for the second file listed.
MNL - 0660 (English)
P4DL6 / P4DLR / P4DLR+ ]


The SuperMicro P4DL6 motherboard can use a 20-pin ATX main power cable, OR a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

Suggest you use a Power Supply, that has a 24-pin ATX main power cable.
Why?
A 20-pin ATX main power cable, does NOT provide enough power to the motherboard.

General example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

[NOTE*
Color of the connectors does NOT matter ]

General example of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Note the additional power wires.
3.3 Volts (Orange), 5 Volts (Red) { 2 of them }, and a Ground wire. (Black)

Which type of ATX main power cable are you using? Don't know. You haven't stated it.

For both,....look at the Green wire. This is the Soft Power On wire.
(Abbreviated as PS_ON)
A jumper wire is used to jump from the Green wire, to ANY Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

Go to the link with the 24-pin ATX main power cable, in it.
Look at the photo to the far right. See the Green wire?
See all the Black wires?

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip, straightened out, then bent into a U-shape. The middle of the U is wrapped a few times, with black plastic electrical tape. This taped area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

Turn the U over. Taped middle is up. There are now two 'legs'.
These legs go down into the socket holes, of the Green wire, and ANY Black wire.

One 'leg' down into the socket hole of the Green wire, the other 'leg' down into a socket hole with ANY Black wire.
The 'leg' of the jumper wire, goes down RIGHT NEXT TO the wire already in the socket hole.

The 'leg' has to go down into the socket hole, (Next to the wire already in the socket hole), pretty far.
It has to go past the insulation of the wire, and touch a metal terminal, that is on the end of the wire.

Look at the middle photo. Here you can see the metal terminals, in the socket holes.

Again, Power Supply plugged into power. ATX main power cable plugged into the motherboard, just like the photo to the far right.
The jumper wire makes a contact of no more than 2 seconds.

(Stick the jumper wire down in the socket holes, no more than 2 seconds, then pull it out.
The ATX power on switch is a Momentary Contact Switch )

Power supply comes on? You have a bad Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Power supply does NOT come on? You have a bad Power Supply.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Copy following link for switch wiring illustrations
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If you want to control both the light and the fan using 3-ways, then just wire 2 sets of the 3-way circuits. For this you need two sets of 3-wire between the switches, and one 3-wire cable from the switch location to the fan/light box.

At box #1 (a 2 gang box), you will run a power cable (marked cable #1) into it. From there you run 2 sets of 3-wire cables (identified as cable #2 & cable #3) to the other switch location, which will also be a 2-gang box (box #2).

Also from box #1, you will run a 3-wire cable (cable #4) to the fan/light box (box #3).

Hook up is as follows:

Box #3: connect black of cable #4 to black (fan), connect red of cable #4 to blue (light), connect white of cable #4 to white (fan/light), and connect the bare to the green.

Box #2: Connect white of cable #2 to identified terminal on 1st 3-way switch (#3). Connect red & black of cable #2 to the remaining screws of 3-way switch #3. Next connect white of cable #3 to identified terminal of 2nd 3-way switch (#4), and connect black and red to remaining screws. Tie all grounds together and terminate to both switches.

At box #1, connect black from cable #1 to whites in cables #2 & #3, using a wirenut. Connect white in cable #1 to white in cable #4. Connect black and red in cable #2 to 3rd 3-way switch (#1) and connect black and red in cable #3 to 4th 3-way switch (#2). Connect black in cable #4 to identified terminal of 3-way switch #1, and connect red in cable #4 to identified terminal on 3-way switch #2. Tie all grounds together and to the switches

Open following links for images of 3-gang and 4-gang single-pole switches.
With the 4 gang, just subtract one of the switches.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-g.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/despard-500.jpg

If you have a 3-way switch, or outlet in the box, then add a comment with more exact information about what wires you are trying to connect, what color wires you have, and what you have tried so far. This will narrow down the possible answers and speed help.

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change fuse in plug to 3 amp after fitting double gang socket or change breaker in consumer unit to 5 amp

WARNING: Do not attempt to do this work unless you completely understand the information provided below. If in doubt call an electrician.
Always make sure the power is disconnected from all possible sources before making any connections. Your description of the problem indicates that there may be multiple power wires coming into the same box. In that case local codes may require that the box be partitioned to prevent exposure to voltages up to 220 volts.
You need to determine where each wire goes to know how to connect them together. You cannot rely on color alone. If the power supply runs through the box to the loads then most (but probably not all) of the white wires will be connected together. If the power runs to the load boxes first then none of the white wires in the switch box should be connected together. They are used to run the switched/dimmed power back to the loads (and should be taped to cover the white in the box). In that case each switch has its own power input and they should not be tied together. A wire (could be black or white with black tape) brings power from the load box, gets connected to the input terminal of the switch and the corresponding black wire carries the switched power back to the load. The fan/light switch will have one power in and a switched power out for the fan and another for the light. The 3-way will have one "power" in (or it could be the final power out to the light) and two "carrier wires that connect to the other 3-way switch. If the power supply goes through the switch box then there will be at least 10 wires in that box. In that case see the attached diagram: