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1995-1997 Chevy 3500 Truck Ignition Starter Alarm Switch Questions & Answers
1995 Chevy 3500 pickup 4x4 454 engine, auto
Sounds like the computer is in limp home mode.I realize you can not hook a scanner up on a 95 but you can use a paper clip to read the blinking code on the engine light. This get hard to explain here but you tube will have a video on how to read it.
2000 s-10 extreme abs code 0265 and brake comes on and goes off
Before going into complex or expensive repair or troubleshooting, check the wiring connectors for the ABS sensors. The connector is usually on or near the wheel backing plate. These this can loosen, corrode, and just plain get crudded up. Disconnect the wire and clean to connection. If that works - good on ya; if not I'd look to the relay as the issue. It has internal contacts that can corrode from arcing during use. They can't generally be repaired and relay replacement is advised.
95 chevy 5.7 4x4 has new oil tune up engine pinging when cold worse when hot
sounds like a spark knock. I would set the timing on the engine and if it is ok try some higher octane fuel in the engine or mix some low and high octane gas about 50/50 and see if that helps the condition. If not move the engine timing ahead about 5 degrees. You don't want to move it to far or else the engine will be hard to turn over and start.
Where is knock sensor location
Not sure what year of Chev you are asking about but up to 1999 the knock sensor was in the water drain hole in the side of the engine block.
My 350 cid when cold starts as should, but once hot the starter drags like battery is dead, could this be starter, heat related, battery or connections, James
If these episodes run the battery down enough that a jump is required after cool down. I would say you have a bad cell in the battery. Providing that your charging the battery properly.
You can place a volt meter on the battery with the engine running to see if your charging system is working. You should get around 14 VDC and it should stay above 13 VDC when you turn things on (heater blower, headlights etc) If it's low or dropping below 13VDC you may have dirty battery connections or a bad alternator.
If your battery is holding good and you do NOT require a jump after cool down, I would say that the starter is failing, this is more common. The heat from the engine makes the starters bearings (bushings) tighter and it looses a lot of pep. But a good battery will recover from the starting attempts and function normally when the starter cools off.
It is also possible that you have BOTH problems. Where as one problems has caused the other for example,
A weak battery can cause the starter motor to pull more current causing damage to the starters armature windings over time.
OR the starter got tight and finished off an already old / borderline battery.
A good rule of thumb.....
IF your battery is 4 or more years old, you may want to start there, because the battery is near the end of its intended live anyhow. installing a new one will do one or more of the following.....
A) solve the problem
B) was preventative maintenance to keep you from being stranded in the next year or so. (that IS what old batteries do)
C) it was the least expensive and the most likely of the 2 solutions
If you decide to have the battery checked or load tested, keep in mind that they sell batteries for a living.
My story....
I had a Buick that did that with a new battery. The battery chain that sold me that battery, load tested it and said that the battery was OK.and that it MUST be the car. They didn't want to admit it was defective and give me a new one. After awhile, I got sick of having to jump it from time to time and just got a new battery at Pepboys and changed it. LIKE NIGHT AND DAY!!
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