20 Most Recent 1995-1997 Chevy Suburban Ignition Starter Alarm switch Questions & Answers

Are all filters clean, tank venting, throttle body set correctly. Disconnect baterry and reboot it. Maybe we can get lucky

First thing we need to do before anything is to remove the little feet that the ash tray sits on when it is open, and bend their tabs out of the way so we can open the ash tray to its fullest open position. To do this, you'll need to play contorsionist a bit, and pull out the little rubber pads from behind the ash tray, then carefully bend the tabs back into the side wall of the ash tray assembly. You can refer to my pic below to see which tab I mean -- And you can also see the remains of the rubber foot in the background . Once both of these tabs have been bent out of the way, you can then take the ash tray door, and pull it down towards the floor as much as you can. Doing this will expose a small pin head sized hole in the side of the ash tray, and also a rounded triangle in the sides of the assembly housing, with a small notch at the top. The springs sit inside of these four holes / notches. Ok, so now that you've got your springs ready to go, its time to install them. You want to take the end of the spring that has a little bit of a bend to it, and slide it into the hole. This will keep the spring from falling out in a few seconds. Once you've got the springs into the side of the ash tray, you'll want to take a skinny screwdriver, and use it to push the spring up and behind the ash tray where you can grab it with your finger. Then both slightly close, and move the spring into it's proper slot at the top of the triangle. Repeat for the other side, and close the ash tray. It should hold itself shut, if not, make sure that you've got the coils of the springs oriented towards the firewall. After you've got that finished, then bend the little tabs for the pads back to where they were, and re-install the little pads. You're good to go! We Are Here To Help !!! __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

run the fault codes and look for problem heated oxygen sensor ( HO2S) in the exhaust manifold , or problem oxygen sensor (O2S) after the cat converter, problem EGR system or problem cat converter

what kind of remote --what is remote for

Check the neutral switch on the steering column. Sounds like the neutral switch is bad. It is located on the steering column inside and by the floor mat. There is usually two screws that mount it and a wire harness to unplug. Just be sure and don't move the gear selector while changing the switch.

Not recommended, safety issue and possibility of air bag deployment.

See Chilton or Haynes Manuals. Also go to AllDataDIY.com. They have a wealth of schematics and diagrams. ALLDATAdiy com Leading Source of Factory Automotive Repair Information Do It Yourself and DIY Auto Repair by ChiltonDIY Haynes is the information resource for the DIY enthusiast

I think that if it was a blown fuse both front windows would not work so it could be the switch! Can you operate the window from a driver side master switch! If not then it could be the window motor!

Check Air Pressure. Check Rotors. Check Calibers. Check all steering and suspension Component's. Could be one or all.

Just remove the brain by following the wiring to the harness, once you find the brain just unplug it all and you could tuck away the alarm wiring if you decide to use it in the future all you do is plug it in or you could cut the wires away from where it was tapped into. Most pros use t taps and everything is just unplug and ready to go

Take Steering coluom apart. Turn key on and disconnect yellow wire. By lock cylinder.

Your throttle position sensor is going bad..tps sensor

Check you accuator blender located under the dash..follow the black vent for the account and you will find it

Valve guide seals. Is it using any oil?

You either have a bad u joint or the ring and pinion bearing is bad. If the play is in the driveshaft it is the u-joint. If the yoke on the rear axle moves up and down, then it is the pinion brngs or the bolt has come loose holding it on

If plugs and wires are ok, check fuel pump pressure. Could be low fuel pressure caused by restricted filter of bad pump. Also there may be a problem with a restriction in the exhaust system.

You probably have a problem with the wires at the starter. If the solenoid (small purple wire) contacts the large red wire is will start the engine. With the battery disconnected, the alt will continue to be the source of power. Also you may have an ign switch shorting out.

firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2driver side cyls are from front of car 1-3-5-7 pass side are 2-4-6-8To find TDC take out #1 plug, slowly rotate engine by hand clockwise with finger in #1 plug hole. Unless you have long arms, you will need a helper :) When you feel pressure coming from the hole, look at the balancer to see a mark, line across the width of the pulley and line it up with the timing indicator located on the timing cover. Set it at TDC. Take off dist cap and see where the rotor is pointing. This will be the #1 wire location. The next hole on the cap clockwise will be #8 etc

When you replaced the starter did you also put a new solenoid on it? I would suspect the fusible links. There are 2 down on the wire harness going to the starter. They are a round piece of black rubber, maybe 1/2 inch long on a wire close to the solenoid. You should see 2 of them. You can either replace them, with a wire 2 sizes smaller, or just cut them out and splice the wires together.

possible faulty accelerator position sensor. Have the fault codes read. Replace faulty items. Use only genuine items as non-genuine replacement are not always compatible with the OEM fitted CPU units