20 Most Recent Inverter Pure Sine Wave 1500w Inverter - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Is there more to the model number I can't find anything at all on it

Hi....if you should be needing a 3000W inverter. No way you should use a 3000 watt inverter. Using an oversized inverter will needlessly draw power from the battery. Be aware that 100 watts of power used is 1 amp of battery power used. You have not said what size battery you have but most likely I am going to guess either a group 24 or 27, which means you only have 40-45 amps of battery power that you can use before you start damaging your battery.

Check your battery voltage when running the inverter. At 100W, the voltage may drop several millivolts maximum, initially and will slowly drop. At 100W, the inverter may draw 15 to 20 amps from the battery. At 1000W, the inverter will draw upwards of 100A which is very hard for most batteries to provide for very long. I have a 5000W inverter connected to a 12V, 830AH battery bank. At 600W output, the inverter draws 70A. At 1500W, it draws almost 150A. At 600W output the battery voltage will drop almost 2 volts over 8 hours of operation. At 1500W, I would get maybe 5 hours, but I have never run a load like this for any length of time. If you put a 100W load on the battery and the voltage drops 2 volts very quickly, then the battery is shot.

Can you give more info ? Make/model/ser #/voltage

You might need 3 or 4 times the average power consumption of a compressor. A 500W inverter is not anywhere near enough to start a fridge.

The battery is likely shot. Try replacing it.

It sounds to me that the inverter is working fine, just undersized. Motors consume a LOT of power when they start. A fridge compressor could draw as much as 800W when it first starts up.

My quess is it is broken!

It depends on what you are using to measure the voltage. Cheap meters can do this. You need a true RMS meter to read these properly. Most inverters use Modified Sine Wave technology which mimics a sine wave poorly and cheap meters do not respond well to the waveform. There is likely nothing wrong with the inverter.

Remove any load that you might have on the inverter. Turn the inverter on and if this still happens, then the inverter needs repair/replacement. Also watch the battery voltage. If it drops more than 0.2 volts, then the batteries are likely discharged or defective.

he battery might be undercharged or defective.

heck the fuses, breakers, battery connections, and battery.

Check the fuses. Check the battery connections. Check the batteries.

Just replace the thing.

Could it be that your batteries have a problem? If they are constantly on charge, they will dry out, the plates might warp, etc. I would disconnect the batteries and put a headlamp or something like that across them and see how long they can run the load. Most headlights draw 5 amps per filament. A good battery should run the light for at least 10 hours, all depending on what their amp hour rating is. If the amp hour rating is 100, then the lamps should run for at least 15 hours without loosing intensity. If they don't then get the battery tested/replaced.

It basically means that there is no load on the inverter. If you an an AC load to it, you should see this increase.

The battery has failed. Replace it.

Remove the load and see if the noise, etc, disappears. If it does, then gradually apply loads. If the fault returns immediately, the inverter has an internal fault. If it fails as you apply loads, than you have exceeded the capacity of the inverter, so remove a load.

I have no idea what the cost would be to repair it, but you are probably best to just replace the inverter. Replacement parts, plus the labour charges to repair it would be more than the cost of a new inverter.