20 Most Recent Delta JT160 Shopmaster 10 Amp 6 Inch Benchtop Jointer Questions & Answers

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/49025/Delta-36-075.html let us know if we can help!

Here is a link that should have it. Good luck http://www.manualsonline.com/support/delta

My bet is that the motor is designed for 220/240 (single or three phase), but you're running in on 110 single phase. If the belt were slipping it would sound like the belt on a car (you know when someone starts their car and belt is loose and goes "Sccrreeeeeee" until the rev the engine and make the belt catch up to the pully). The power in wood working motors is such that it should be very difficult to slow down the motor if you're feeding at a slow rate. But, if the motor needs 220 and you're powering with 110, then the motor will have no power (the magnets in the motor are matched with the voltage - and if you have the wrong voltage you won't get any power and the speed will be very slow). Typically the "home" or "residential" tools only run on 110, but if you have a larger unit they can be wired for 220 or 110. If you bought the planer used, they may have been running with 220 and now you're powering with 110 (or vice versa). I'd do a quick google search for your unit to see what it's capable of. Or, just take the model number of the motor (not the planer) and search for that. Typically, motors can be run at 110 or 220 for larger wood working tools. Inside the metal housing where the wire feeds into are a number of wires to connect to. These wires have numbers on them (either a tag or printed on the wire insulation) and you attach them a certain way for 110 and a different way for 220. Sometimes you can even change the direction of the motor - SO BE CAREFULL IF YOU REWIRE IT! don't power it up all the way on the first try. Just start it and then stop it while the motor is still coming up to speed. While the planer is still spinning (even though the motor is off) feed your board in slowly and you'll be able to tell which way the motor is spinning. If you get the wrong direction on your motor you can shoot boards across the shop (or out into the street if you're in the garage - like I did).

Please go to this link, download the instruction manual, then read and understand it before using your jointer. Incorrectly adjusted, even correctly adjusted, jointers can be dangerous tools, and failure to heed the instructions can easily cost you the loss of a fingertip or worse. Only when properly adjusted with the jointer be of any worthwhile use, anyway.For more detailed information and numerous good articles with details on how to tune and use a jointer, search google for "jointer tune up".I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

If you can't print from your computer, or local library, find a local print shop or copy shop that is willing to download and print a .pdf file for you.
Then go to this link and you'll be able to download a pdf file with the manual you're seeking: http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/A05737.pdf
If this solves your problem, please take a second to rate this post and let us know! Best wishes!

HOW CAN I VIEW THE HIDDEN MESSAGE,

Here it is:
http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000128AA.pdf

This sound like a bad commutator in the motor - if you're lucky then it's just the brushes. As the motor turns, the brushes push against metal contacts on the commutator. The brushes provide an electrical path to the commutator. The commutator is a bunch of electro magnets (remember wrapping wire around a nail and putting electricity to it to make a magnet? that's what's on the commutator). So as the motor turns, the brushes connect to different contacts - but if that contact is bad, then no electricity can flow. So the first contact may be good (30 degrees of the motor works fine), but the second contact is bad (30 degrees of the motor turned off), then the third contact is good (30 degrees of the motor back to fine again).

You can try to fix this if you're mechanically inclined and want to take the motor apart. Remove the motor entirely from the jointer. Open both ends of the motor (usually 3 or 4 really long screws going through the motor to join the ends). The brushes are usually spring loaded and can shoot out, so go slowly and look inside while you open it up. The brushes should be at least 1/2 inch long (if they are shorter than that then replace them). Also look for sawdust - if your motor is jambed full of sawdust you may just need to clean it out.

Once you have the motor fully apart - the commutator is that bulk of the shaft, with lots of wire wrapped around it, and one end having metal contacts (where the brushes ride). Examine the contacts closely - if one is bad (broken or missing) then you HAVE to get a new motor - no way around it. However, when they put the contacts onto the shaft, they use lots of epoxy/glue. This is what is between the contacts (from side to side). As the brushes move around on the contacts, they also ride on the glue - this can "smear" the glue from between the contacts to actually cover the contacts. If this is the case you can use 600 grit sandpaper to clean the contacts. I would also cut the glue between the contacts so it sits lower than the contact surface (take an old hack saw blade and brake it in half - the width of a hack saw blade is usually the same width as the distance between the contacts - lightly saw the glue between the contacts until it's lower than the contact surface).

While the motor is apart, check the bearings - if the bearing are bad, the shaft can "flop" back and forth and might make the brushes skip over a contact. If it's a bearing you can usually get a number off of the side of the bearing and find new ones (search for the part number on google - bearing are about $2-$4).

I'd also check the belt the goes from the motor to the jointer shaft - I like those powertwist belts because they don't deform and induce vibrations.

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Hi,
please use this link , its the full instruction/setup/service manual

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/a23308,JT160.pdf

Instruction manual is here.

Exploded diagram is here.

I'm pretty sure you're saying your planer tables are not coplanar.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/jointer-setup/ is worth watching. Despite his comments about a level, a decent level works fine for making sure your tables are flat and coplanar on smaller units like this.

On more expensive planers there are gibs that can be adjusted to fix this issue. Your part list doesn't list any gibs, so it looks like you will have to loosen the screws holding the infeed or outfeed table in place and shim it. You can use a metal feeler gauge to figure out how much need to shim it.

Also, if you're still in warranty, Delta may be able to replace your unit. If you're going down this route, I'd recommend you take a level and your unit into a service center so you can show them the problem.

Be aware that the replacement "could" be worse than the original. Be sure to check it. I recently waited 6 weeks for a replacement fence for my jointer (mine developed a twist) and the new one had a 3/8" bow in that was ridiculous.

Unfortunately the Shopmaster line wasn't Delta's greatest and there have been a lot of problems with them. It might be worth keeping an eye on craigslist in your area, as decent prices can be had on jointers fairly regularly.

Please vote if this answer was useful.

go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number in the bottom of the page the manual is 56 pages long. If I have helped you would you please rate this response accordingly.

you might try Dewaltservicenet.com but you will need the model number and you might have to put the dash in between to get it to list the model. Let me know if you need more assistance and if you do I would also need this information.

It sounds to me like you have a swollen field and/or armature. What happens in a situation like this is the armature swells after getting started. There is probably a short in either the armature or field or both which is causing the overheating. Once the armature heats a lot it gets stuck in the field. After cooling down it has contracted a little and will move. A good way to see if it is the problem is to remove the motor. Take the brushes out, remove the motor cover and try to remove the armature. If the field and armature have been swollen you will have a very hard time removing the armature, it should just slide out. Usually the plastic sheathing in the field will curl over preventing the removal of the armature. Look for burn marks on the armature and for blown comm bar connections. The armature alone for your model is $160 and the field is $87. It would be worth your while to replace these if they are the problem, along with new brushes and brush tubes. That is unless your housing is damaged due to excessive overheating. In this case you will have to puchase the whole motor which is $406. Post back if you have any questions.

go to this site for parts
http://performancetoolcenter.com/jt160.html

Most reliable sharpening services will be able to grind knives for your jointer that will work just fine. The key is to match the existing knives as far as thickness (guage) and height of the new knives. You want them to give you maximum life but not extend too far past the cutterhead when adjusted all the way down. I don't know about your machine, but on an 8" powermatic the tip of the knife shouldn't extend more than about .0012" above the circumference of the cutterhead. You can check this with a set of calipers and give the height to the sharpener, then just choose high speed steel or carbide and you're on your way.
If you check the overall length of the knives, sometimes they are slightly under the nominal length, and a 6" long knife could bump into the housing as the cutterhead rotates, so this is one other thing to check before you go ahead and order them 6" long.
But the short answer is, no problem. Just get a reliable sharpener to make them for you, buy a quality steel blank, and have him put a fine grit polish or hone on the knives when he sharpens them...

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Go to this link and you'll find a complete parts diagram, list, and pdf manuals for your jointer.
Dewalt service net

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!

Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page towards the bottom type in your model number. It will take you to another page and click on the first JT160 and when it changes screens click on the instruction manual, I had to click on it a couple times to open it but I did look at and it is about 48 pages long. Let me know if you have any problems and I will check further