20 Most Recent Samsung RB1955VQ Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

ok first thing is i need to figure out what your machine is doing so your saying you plug in the unit it goes down to the tempreture that your trying to reach and then it gets warm on both freezer and frigerator side correct. have you removed the rear panel to assure that you are not having a defrost problem inside the freezer? have you done continiuity test to the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater as well? Have you also assured that the fan inside the back wall of the freezer is working properly the tempreture in a machine is constantly fluctuating optimum tempretures for freezer are at 0 degrees and fridge are 38 the freezer is the only part that actually gets cold the fan inside the back wall of the freezer is what pushes the cold air into the fridge through a small door if the fridge is to cold then it has a damper control that shuts the door not allowing the cold air to go in if the freezer gets to cold that has a defrost heater if you would like to read more on how the defrost system works here is a link that will help you to understand how it works http://applianceoutletservice.com/appliance-care-tips/refrigerator-tips/refrigerator-defrost-system-information.htm i await your reply on the questions i have asked and likewise if you have any further questions please message me back with them and when our chat has concluded please remember to rank how this opinion has helped Thanks again Rick

Jackie, the only other thing that could be wrong is the thermistor sending the wrong info to the board. Why don't you have the technician come back out and ohm out the thermistor values, they could be off. I have seen some models where the thermistor is pushed too far into the insulation giving a false reading. Catriver..post back

My fridge turns on when it's plugged in but shuts off hours later for some reason and looses cool temp. I unplugged and plugged in the fridge again and it worked but shut off again hours later. What's with that?

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Your comments:
The compressor and fan are clean and working normally. The temperature DOES come down to the set point on the digital display but after 8 hours or so the unit compressor shuts off and temperature rises in both freezer and fridge.

What your experiencing is that the unit is going into the automatic defrost cycle but not terminating the defrost cycle when the defrost heater warms up the evaporator coil area to 60 deg F, The defrost thermistor sends the signal to the defrost control to restart the compressor when the 60 deg F termperature is reached. For some reason either due to a bad thermistor that signal is not getting passed to the defrost control.
If the defrost heater is not working the refrigerator will have to warm up to 60 deg F before it will automatically restart.

If the defrost temp sensor has failed; Item 4 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172083
It will turn on the heater and the heater will stay on but the compressor will not restart.
Detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/samsung-defrost-temperature-sensor-item-number-ap4136842.aspx

The thermistor and heater have to be checked. If they are both good then replacement of the defrost control it the final remedy.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi,

I am sorry to hear regarding the problem.

No doubt this is a common problem on these models, however there is no specific reason for the same. There are few things that needs to be diagnosed before me jump on to any conclusion. As the service rep already replaced the main control board, he almost excluded the main cause for the problem.This model is also known to collect ice at the top where the fan is at.Ice could be blocking the fan motor. With refrigerator unplugged, take off the back cover in the upper unit and check for ice.Make sure that the condenser fan is working.

I could tell you the main 4 reasons for the same which i have observed :

Defrost Problem
Modern refrigerators are designed to self defrost and it is essential to the airflow to have an evaporator coil that is clear for air movement. If the rear interior panel of the freezer has frost appearing, it is most likely a defrost problem and must be corrected before temperatures can be restored to normal.
Dirty condensor Coil
Check the condensor coils for lint and restrictions. It is located underneath the refrigerator and accessible from the rear. A dirty condensor coil will result in poor cooling, especially in the freezer.Or somtime from the front by removing the plastic grille in fornt below the fridge door.They mak a $7. dollar refrigerator brush you can buy in any hardware store or home depot.
Low Refrigerant Charge
If the unit has a low refrigerant change, the freezer will not reach proper temperatures. This must be checked by a qualified technician due to EPA regulations.
Faulty Condensor Fan Motor
The condensor fan motor is found under the refrigerator near the compressor. This motor is essential to proper cooling. If the fan motor is not running, there will not be proper heat removal from the condensor and the result will be higher than normal temperatures in the freezer and usually in the fresh food section. Ensure the fan motor is running when the compressor is on.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

If the freezer is not cooling, then problem relates to compressor.but still wait more 12 hours and see if it starts cooling.Basically it takes approx 24 hours to regain its cooling, once its unplugged for few hours and then plugged in.---------- So once again check after another 12 hours and see if you notice cooling.But if there is no cooling then yes its compressor issue.----------- If freezer will not start cooling, then fridge will also not start.------------ Click this link below and get more details:--------- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/08/freezer-taking-too-long-to-cool-or.html ----------- This will help, thanks.Helpmech

Could be the circuit board (buggered relay on that), could be the air thermisitors, could be the compressor cutting out on thermal overload (faulty compressor or faulty klixon).

According woth your preliminary diagnotsic, I could bet on the circuit board logic or defrost system fault (fuse, heater, thermistor etc), as reseting the power gets it started OK It doesn't seem think a mechanical or relay failure.

Common with samsung when the defrost system is open circuit for the control to display incorrect temperatures. Probably thermal fuse or open circuit heater element, but it could be the PCB instead/as well. If you take off this or other part, check the part number printed there and try to look in THIS LINK.

Hope this helps.

Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

I hope this will help in solving the problem....