20 Most Recent Samsung RS2630WW Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Turn off ref. for 1 min.

same as last post: Could be something as simple as a filter change (there needs to be 20psi to function) or as bad as the solenoid control valve. This can be heard to click on/ off for the dispense water cycle.

could be something as simple as a filter change (there needs to be 20psi to function) or as bad as the solenoid control valve. This can be heard to click on/ off for the dispense water cycle.

Possible bad freezer fan motor. I need more information such as brand and model number

The door should be held on to the box by adjustable fixtures at top and bottom. One or both may have come loose. Look it over on the and bottom of the door. There is normally a cover over them that you will need to remove to access the mounting screws. Good luck.

probable cause is jammed fan. first take back panel off fridge, electrical connections are plug and socket. yoy may find a quite small build up of ice underneath the fan. melt it off and you should be ok. samsung are prone to this problem

On my model RF265AABP, it is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides). Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out. Yours may be different. Ice maker assembly upside down on bench.

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. Check your digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens. After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides). Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out. Ice maker assembly upside down on bench. Aluminum bracket and screws Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

Might be, the compressor is loose, now is it loose at base where it is fastened or the bearings are loose.

First, get a $10 voltage tester. Since both wires are black, it may not matter which way you hook it up--if that is your problem. still, you can find the hot,and common like this:You'll need a patent ground. If the unit is grounded, just touch one probe to the metal.with the compressor running, carefully work the sharp tip through the insulation of one wire ( makes a very small hole in the insulation that poses no hazard). If the voltage is consistent with your other hot readings, then that's your hot (110/120). if it reads lower when the compressor is working, then that's your common (white). You should get the greatest difference (voltage drop in common line) right when the unit starts.or, just call Samsung.

press and hold the 2 outside buttons( the quick freeze and chill)

Anytime you put a question out there concerning technical issues, the more information the better. There are always signs that tell you what is going on if you know what to look for. The first thing I do is listen to hear if the compressor comes on. Next I check for fan operation inside. Then I check for ice on the back wall of the freezer side of the fridge. (FYI: almost all but high-end fridges are cooled by the freezer side evaporator only). if your fan has a good flow of air over it and there is ice on the back wall it will more then likely be the defrost timer or defrost heater (there is also a thermostat in line with the heater that can fault as well). I change both the heater and the timer because they have about the same life span. If your condenser coil is dirty it will not cool correctly, and can kill the compressor pretty quick. Anything with a mother board should be checked by a technician unless you have a full understanding of wire diagrams and electrical skills.

This problem could be caused by the motherboard having defective relays, bad fan motor=> DA31-00103A Fan Motor Sounds like someone will need to examine the fan motor and test the voltage to the fans inside and outside the refrigerator. You will need to have this done to eliminate what the cause is. Both condensor and evaporator fan motors are the same part=> DA31-00103A Fan Motor Let me know and I will explain how to remove, test or replace the freezer/evaporator fan motor, wiring or motherboart. Thanks Sea Breeze DA31-00103A Fan MotorDA31-00103A