A.O. Smith SQ1102 Pool Pump Motor - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If power is applied and motor hums but does not start spinning, the start capacitor is probably burnt out. Replace it with a 163-193 uf at 125vac. That should solve the issue.

Did you try the Century A.O. Smith B230SE motor without the center screw? I'm having the same problem and I'm asking the reseller for advice. It would be great to know if I need the center screw is required? The impeller screws on the shaft, but is the center screw required?

I am a bit late but why not just replace the pump.

Sounds like you may have a failed start switch in the motor. It appears the start winding did not drop out and the pump would not come up to full speed.

I would suggest taking a closer look at the motor name plate. I am not familiar with a 120/240 three phase service. When I checked the web it shows: Voltage 115/230 (that is single phase), Max Amps 115 Volts = 19.2 Max Amps 230 Volts = 9.6 , Single Speed, Square Flange, RPM = 3450, Threaded Shaft, Frame = 48Y Used on the following models: Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas, Max-E-Glas II, Dura-Glas, Dura-Glas II, Dyna-Glas, Dyna-Max Pentair Whisperflow, Pinnacle and Anthony AR2 Series. You should also show what voltage you are connected to.

I am not sure, but DC motors will run backwards if the polarity of the incoming voltage is switched. I see this is an AC motor but they always run forward no matter the polarity, unless the polarity is reversed to the right wires inside the motor. The second link has a discussion on exactly how to do that. Thus it may have your answer, that those wires got switched somehow on your motor. Which means you need to buy a new motor. http://www.aqua-man.com/row_num.asp?Ic=1133 http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/26099

i need technical detail as well as dimensional detail of CET54AEH Thermal OVERLOad of KLIXION. if any 2d or 3d dimesion drawing is available then it is much better for me for Analysis.

On your motor name plate there is a diagram with motor terminal numbers that shows you the feeder wires connections for 115 & 230VAC. You don't need to change any internal motor wiring connections because those are only CW or CCW motor rotation. As you told it tripped your circuit breaker, b4 u will attemp to make any connection you need to test your motor's winding insulation insulation first by using megger tester or ordinary analog tester clipping one lead to the casing and one lead to the motor terminals one by one.

that's easy ground goes on the top green screw at about 1 o'clock the others can be ether way see picture .. go to your local pool pump motor repair guy and ask him how 2 take better care of your pump.. he can save you thousands of dollhair$ over the years .. jay pump guy longwood Florida

Hi pbrittain...
Check to make sure you have electrical power coming to the pump motor.
Make sure the pump motor connections are all tight and no corrosion on the wires to inhibit electrical flow.
If you are getting power to the switch, and to the motor...then you have a faulty motor.
Please take time to rate me

You should be able to see on the tag "RLA" which is running load amps. It should not exceed this amperage. Could the motor be going the wrong direction? If its going the wrong way, that exactly how it would react.

Hi,
Most of those pumps are a single speed motor. Because of that it is difficult to slow it down.
The best thing you can do is to install a valve in the outlet hose and slow the water down that way....it will not hurt the pump and if you had a meter on the wiring to the pump you would see that it will actually use LESS electricity with the valve part way shut.
That way you can easily adjust how much water is going through the pump...

heatman101

Remove the power plug, remove the back cover, loosen the clamp that holds the capacitor and move it out of the way. With a 1/2 inch open end wrench, (I think it is 1/2 inch) hold the armature via the flats on the rear of the armature. With your other hand, remove the impeller. While you are at it, you should replace the seal inside as well. If you can't get the impeller off by hand (I presume you are removing it because it is damaged) use channel lock pliers to remove it. It may turn off in a direction other than what you are expecting. Try both directions.

When stopping and starting your pump, make sure it is actually stopped before turning it back on. Frequently, air pressure in the filter will run the pump in reverse when you turn the power off to the pump. Starting the pump before the pump has come to a stop will spin the center out of the impeller. 10 seconds should be plenty of time.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

we have them 888-794-2365

pool pump repair guy in longwood florida , here to save the day.. Ok what you have is a bad shaft seal (90% of the time) OR tank crack or a cracked seal plate or a bad gasket or o-ring.. look at the link and it wil help you ID your pump and take it apart. prim that pump after a repair !!! www.poolmotorrepair.com/
the cost of a shaft seal

Take off the rear cover as to expose the capacitor. Remove capacitor. Place a 7/16 wrench on the shaft threw the opening where you removed the capacitor. Put a rag on the impeller and with a wrench turn it counterclockwise. It should come off easily. Make sure you replace the seals before reassembling

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Depending on the age of the motor you should have a 'quick change' switch of some type you simply rearrange for the 240V setting. If not I assume you have an old motor with a brown and white wire from inside the stator positioned on posts L1 and B if memory serves correctly. White will be on the L post and Brown on one of the two lettered posts. Move brown to the other lettered post and put white where brown was if you have these leads. If you do have a plug or rotary switch, reposition it for 240VAC and your done. In any of these settings you still leave your two incoming line leads, one each, on L1 and L2.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Bearings are generally sold at local power transmission shops in your area. If looking in the yellow pages look them up under that heading of "Power Transmission". Your old bearing should have some numbers on it but even if it does, take it to one of the local shops and they'll match it up with the correct replacement. The cost for such a part is very likely under $10. John

THERE SHOULD BE THREE SCREWS ON ABOUT 1 O'CLOCK AND THE OTHER 2 ARE THE POWER SCREWS AT 3 O'CLOCK AND HAVE NO POLARITY ... THERE IS A WAY TO SET THE VOLTAGE, LOOK CLOSE ON THAT WHITE BOARD AND YOU CAN SEE HOW TO SET IT FROM 115 TO 230 VOLTS.. REMEMBER GIVE ME A REPLY OR FEED BACK .. IF'N I WAS OF HELP ... I'M THE POOL PUMP DOCTOR OR WHISPERER IF YOU PREFER

Remove the 4 fasteners that hold the pump head onto the motor and try to turn the motor shaft by hand. If it turns freely, apply power and see what happens. If it turns Ok, then your problem is the pump head not the motor. If the motor does not turn by hand then it needs to be replaced. If it turns by hand but not when power is applied, you may get away with replacing the bearing in it.