Craftsman LT1000 Parts manual
Posted by mike566 on
Engine # 31C707 0230E1 030625ZE Nikki Carb # 697216 G02703 3211 B I recently purchased a non-running 9 yr old mower that looked like new (hardly used & garage kept). Found they had left ethanol gas in the tank over winter & destroyed the fuel line. I got it running & have put about 3hrs mowing on it since. The thing I can not figure out is that it starts up perfectly and runs perfect when mowing but sputters & backfires / pops thru both the carb & exhaust when not mowing & also when either at idle, slow, or fast throttles. Also it will not rev past mowing speed setting on throttle. The sputtering starts about 3-5 secs after start up. I've performed the following thus far after reading many posts on this site: - Drained bad gas & replaced with fresh no ethanol type - replaced fuel line & fuel filter (but used a bigger one Fram G2 1144) - Disassembled the carb & flushed w/ carb cleaner 3 times (the main jet intake seat was completely clogged - replaced float bowl gasket (B&S p/n 698781) since they were destroyed - can not remove the mixture valve (governor) per mfg - new air filters - new battery & spark plug (gapped to 0.03) - adjusted valves 1/4" past TDC & gapped per instructions - anti-backfire solenoid on carb has 12.5V to it & will shut off & not run if the solenoid wiring harness is removed from the solenoid - breather tube is clean as well as intake ports - gas cap is clean & air flows thru - checked seat sensor safety switch but not any others (sputters all the same w/ & w/o the switch plugged in) - battery reads 12.5-12.8V & does not jump around (lower) when sputtering - changed oil & put Sea Foam in the oil & in the gas (only been ~ 1hr mowing since adding Sea Foam though) - wire brushed the flywheel to remove rust to see if it would help if a coil issue (just a thought anyway...why not) - strong vaccum through air intake before the carb Possible Solutions not checked: coil (but would I not see this in the voltage readings & why no issues when mowing ?), safety sensors other than seat, valve sticking but hopefully Sea Foam will eventually work it clear (not even sure how I would check for this or correct it)
Posted by Jeremy... on
Hi, run a number drill through the main jet. Even though you have carby cleaned it a thin layer of residue will remain on the walls of the jet. The problem you have is a lean misfire. Regards Phil.
Posted on Jun 11, 2012
murray riding mower 12.5 hp briggs & stratton spitting oil & gas out of carb & muffler when trying to start
Posted by lauraisaac... on
hello sir check to see if the engine is over full on oil and gas in the engine .this will make starter drag eventually ruining starter.this is the only thing i can think of other than engine having high compression except valves not opening and the pressure relief valve not working,or engine low on oil 30 WT, is also important to keep good oil in engine and full. the solenoids under the carburetor will go bad, if you have one. make sure you keep battery charged. if it is follow these directions ,well it is a simple fix,but a lot to correct problem, parts needed,1 new spark plug,1 new solenoid,1 quart of 30wt oil,1 pan to catch old oil in. tools needed,1 spark plug wrench,1,7/16 or 1/2 or 9/16 open wrench,pen&paper. ok, empty fuel tank or clamp off fuel line,make a drawing as how the wires are connected to the solenoid,white & black wires,unplug wire fittings,remove solenoid, in stall new solenoid,plug wires in. now drain oil & gas out of engine,remove old spark plug,important so follow directions,after oil is drained plug is out crank engine so to clean out cylender of excess oil & gas,it would be a good ideal to let oil drain for a while. add oil & spark plug,engine will smoke for a while but should clear up.when you go to the parts store you will need engine horse power,engine brand,mobel number,type number,parts should cost around 50.00. including everything you need,check oil often you can put a inline fuel shutoff in the fuel line about $5.00, or replace solenoids for $40.00.hope this helps,good luck;MrFixIt. oh please don't forget to give rateing,thank you..
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
need a diagram on how to put a drive belt back on a sabre by john deere riding lawn mower
Posted by harvick187... on
It is a hard one to put on co look at the picture carefully there are two pulleys one that one side of the deck that are trickey.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
belt number 144200D for Craftsman lawn mower, how do I put it on??
Posted by alatmil on
Here is a picture to help you place it on right. There are two deck designs pick yours.
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
belt seems too loose it slips when I engage to cut the grass can it be adjusted or do I have to replace it thank you
Posted by john266 on
Note: This is about a different mower, but it might be similar enough to yours. If not, please disregard. Thanks!
I had a similar issue with our mower, a 2006 Troy-Bilt Pony model 13AN77TG766 (17.5 HP, 42 inch deck): when I pushed the handle down to engage the blades, it took a good ten seconds or so to start the blades turning; even then, they didn't have enough power to cut the grass. And on any height setting lower than 5, they wouldn't turn at all.
The cause was on page 19 of the manual <URL:http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/DocGetter?doc=769-02243a.pdf>: Figure 17 shows the "PTO" cable attaching to a hole on the edge of the deck idler bracket, but it was shipped from the factory attached to a hole in the middle of the deck idler bracket, about 3 cm (1 in.) closer to the front end of the machine. I reattached the cable to the original hole, and the belt is now good and tight; the blades engage as soon as I push the handle down.
Now, today, I'm having problems with the belt popping off the right-hand idler (hopefully just needs the deck stabiliser rod adjusting).
Always remember to remove the spark plug wire before you go near the blades; and watch for hot, sharp, and/or pinching surfaces.
Posted on May 19, 2009
Posted by PAT PAT on
I don't have a deck diagram but you should be able to figure it out it you put the back part of the belt (flat) up against the pulleys that are wide and the narrow part (v) into the smaller pulleys. It might take a couple of times but it is not that hard to figure out. Also put the (flat) side of the belt on any tension idlers. Hope this works.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
I have Craftsman LTX 1000 riding lawn mower and need to replace belt. Model # 917 272480 Would you know the belt number for this mower? Thank you
Posted by farrin73 on
The deck belt is 144959 which is 1/2" X 95" and the drive belt is 140294 which 1/2' X 82", and can be found on amazon, here 1 2 95 Premium Belt Craftsman Poulan Ayp Husqvarna Replacement Belt 144959.... I hope this was helpful. cheers
Posted on Nov 30, 2014
Craftsman lawn tractor, LT2000, 18 HP OHV INTEK, 917.273752 I have a similar stalling problem as the one I reviewed in your forum, 10-15 minute run time, then stalls. Only difference, no cool down period needed before starting back up. Starts right back up without hesitation. I disengage the blades, bring the throttle to idle and the tractor will even idle for a short time before stopping. I turn the key off, then immediately restart. Tractor has had a full tune-up, no gas cap restrictions, fresh fuel, new air filter, fuel filter and spark plug. Really stumped and would appreciate any help... JP
Posted by nautedge on
here is web site for manual and parts diagram
have the valves been adjusted correctly ? or could have a tight valve clearance
and when gets warm holds valve open - looses power
your engine will be 31p777 intek ohv avs
run the piston to tdc on compression stroke , then turn piston past tdc & set piston is 1/4 inch down the bore on power stroke this eliminates decomprssor lift from the setting
intake should be 0.003 Thou
and exhaust 0.005t thou
then check the carburettor main jets and emulsion tube and pilot jets and air bleeds and progression ports for obstruction etc for restriction / blockage
check fuel flow from tank to carb , check that the fuel solenoid has got continual 12 volt supply
when switched on and does not go o/c cutting fuel supply to main jet
have a look let me know
cheers hope it helps
dont forget the thumbs rating
Posted on Jun 09, 2011
How to fix or replace a craftsman mower draglink. The draglink came off of the ball stem and I cant get it to lock back into place.
Posted by bigdave365 on
There is a forum with several solutions. I figured out a different one after reading them since I did not have a welding unit.
My Solution: After reading that the ball joint (or press fit knuckle) was part of the draglink piece, I decided to modify the process suggested by rustyj14. I removed the ball joint, drilled out the end of the draglink, and used a quarter inch bolt to attach the end of the draglink to the steering bar. The picture at http://www.cyber-nook.com/MowerFix/SteeringFix.jpg shows this solution. I suspect the sheer forces on the quarter inch bolt are fairly strong and it may eventually break. There seems to be enough metal in the draglink to bore out a 5/16 or 3/8 inch hole and use a larger bolt. I did not remove the draglink to drill, and my hole is off-center – I suggest removing the draglink to drill it.
Posted on May 17, 2010
2,428 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: