20 Most Recent Ryobi 18-inch Electric Chainsaw Chain Saws Questions & Answers

The chainsaw comes with a safety brake. It is situated in front of the handle. If pushed forward it locks up the chain. It needs a firm tug towards yourself to release it. Hope it helps.

• Unloosen the bts on the chain cover, remove the cover, loosen the bar for some slack, reposition the chain and reverse the opertaion. Be sure the teeth are going in the correct direction. Tight the chain so a dime will just slip under the chain itself.

Ok to get correct tension on chain, basically loosen it a little until the chain on the underside of the bar is hanging a little... Now start tightening it up again. Basically you want the chain (the main part of each link) to be just touching the the underside of the bar. This will give correct tension... Note that chain does expand as it heats up so it may loose tension... so this is perhaps best done when the saw and chain has warmed a little. Also, new chain will stretch a little naturally so check tension each tme you use the saw.

If you do not know hoe to sharpen a chain properly, it is best to get someone else to sharpen it, or buy a new chain... Eventually all chains will need to be replaced because they can only be sharpened so many times before the cutting teeth become too small to work effectively or safely.

As for oil, if it is an electric chain saw, you only need chain/bar oil. Any good name branded bar/chain oil designed for chainsaws will work well.

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Remove the air cleaner and watch the throttle arm on the carburetor while operating the throttle trigger--suspect that the trigger assembly has acquired sawdust and dirt sufficient to limit proper travel of the trigger mechanism. Careful notes as you dis-assemble the trigger will help get it back together properly. There is little except proper maintenance to prevent debris accumulation in the trigger mechanism. Note: air leakage behind the carburetor can also cause high idle speeds--make sure the carburetor is fastened securely and that there are no flaws in the gaskets and heat insulator located behind the carburetor. Hope this helps!

1st add fuel/oil mix to fuel tank , then top off oil tank with bar oil , place saw down on flat surface , press 'ON" button above trigger handle to ON (its marked on case) then pull out blue choke handle till it clicks and stays out , press primer bulb with thumb 8 to 10 times bulb will become harder to press as it fills carb , push chain brake forward (on) ` place left hand on top of saw and right hand on start cord , hold saw down firmly and pull cord vigorsly several times till it sort of starts (sound) , squeeze trigger in and pull cord once more , saw should take off running , chain wont move ,walk to wood pile then disengage the chain brake and cut wood , if saw fails to start after this procedure then there must be a fault in saw , consult a exp small engine dealer for repairs

all oil tanks on chain saws take Bar/chain oil this can be bought same place u buy 2 cycle engine oil most times , this bar chain oil most times is a 30W oil , if you change weights of oil then oil pump is not gonna add proper amount of oil to saw in use ,this will cause u problems !

ive not done much with this model but I can give you some basics on why I see lots of chainsaws loose there oiling of bar (1) Wrong oil used in supply tank- most all chain saws take 30 wt bar chain oil . this is a lite/fine oil and needs to be so it flows thru small ports and pump on saws (2) fine sawdust in supply tank - I guess anything can fall in the tank but I do find theres a lot of junk that falls in there over time , if it don't flow like oil does then it don't belong in the tank (3) sawdust jammed in bar ports this id say is the biggest one I find , seems sawdust (all different size pieces) finds its way into the fine ports that oil is suppose to flow thru , sawdust mixed with oil makes a darn fine plug !!! other than these simple things above , most saws have lots of parts that can break and fall off look for something just not right looking and sometimes it will be very obvious whats missing

Best to use proper chainsaw oil to lubricate the chain cutting in the wood, but at a pinch you can use multigrade car engine oil. Don't use secondhand oil as the added acids,pollutants, etc., from the engine will break down the oil making it less efficient....and leave staining on the wood. Chainsaw oil can be readily bought from good garden centres. Hope this helps.

pull back on the forward handle it sounds like the clutch brake is on

should be a n or somethign that loosens on the side loosen it some, some have a flathead screw that tightens it some dont if not then you have to pull bar and tighten nut

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Very often they use a spring as the filet, it sits on the end of the oil delivery tube inside the oil tank, you will have to remove the clutch/sprocket and oil pump to get at this.

Sawdust/dirt build-up helps cause this situation. Usually, the band is deformed so that it drags. The melted case parts may or may not need replacement, but will likely need trimming. The band usually does as it is difficult to remove the small bends in it. After repair, make sure the chain turns freely by hand. Set and reset the brake several times to make sure it works correctly. The clutch outer drum rarely deforms when this happens. Hope this helps!