20 Most Recent AO Smith SQ1202 Pool Pump Motor Questions & Answers

Replace the leaking mechanical seal in the pump that is letting the water into the motor in the first place.

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It could be the pump is bound up but it is more likely the motor is failing. It may be a small part such as the capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft where it passes thru the pump and motor and look for signs of rust from a pump seal leak. Start with the capacitor. Use a digital multi-meter (DMM), preferably with a capacitor setting, or an analog meter set for Ohms. With an analog, you should see the needle deflect as if testing a closed circuit then it will slowly drop to 0 if the capacitor is good. If it doesn't move or moves and stays to the side showing a closed circuit the capacitor is bad. If you notice a burn hole near the terminals on the end of the capacitor do not bother to test it. If you do not have access to a meter you can try grounding the posts together with a screwdriver to see if they arc although It is not a very reliable test method. Be sure you are holding on to an insulated handle for the tool you use to short the terminals together or you can get a good poke. If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. They should also be able to ensure there is no pump damage. If you wish to continue to try to repair it yourself please comment with any questions you have as you work thru the pump and motor.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details or contact me thru our site at www.arrowpools.net prior to rating the answer; I'll do what I can to help. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Turn the circuit breaker off to the pump. Undo the band that holds the motor and flex plate to the pump. Unscrew the 5 screws on the diffuser ( front of pump ) That will expose the impeller. Remove the rear cover of the motor, (2 -1/4" screw heads) Pull off the rear cover. The impeller might have a screw in the center of it. If it does, the screw is left handed thread. Turn the screw clockwise to remove. Use a 7/16" open end wrench to hold the shaft at the rear of the motor. Put the wrench behind the plate with the two springs on the shaft. You might have to turn the shaft a little to get the wrench on. Remove to screw and remove the impeller, (counter clockwise). Unscrew the 4 motor flange bolts and pull the flex plate from the motor.

That model number is listed as a 230v motor (no neutral) The wires should be attached to terminals marked L1, L2 and A . L1 is high speed, L2 is common and A is low speed. Check the name plate for wiring information.

http://www.waterwayplastics.com/catalogs/2011_poolspa_02_pumps.pdf
Here is the page with the pump curves, it took a while to find.
This lists from 3/4 HP to 3 HP in standard and energy efficient models.
If you need more information, post again.
Gary

Sounds like its frozen and causing a very heavy load on your circuit. If the motor gets hot within seconds, its shot and needs replacing. Have you attempted to turn the motor over by hand ?

Check the pump suction filter? To backwash it, is to
open the backwash tank cleanout valve, to clear the dirt out. If this does not work, check the pipelines going to the backwash tank for clogged lines.

Bearings MAY be bad from a bad seal. To do this right you MAY need an arbor press to insert new seal without damaging it.

update your java

Probably, I assume everything is c-face and it has enough power.

We have a Model 2801052103 Franklin Electric submersible pump, 1/2HP 230 Volt. It starts and stops when using water frequently. System is 30+ years old, could the well be bad?

check flot

have a service person look at this motor

call help desk

did you call the units maker

you may have change the motor rotation

IS IT AN ABOVEGROUND OR SUBMERSIBLE (INGROUND) PUMP. USUALLY THIS IS CAUSED BY A BAD CAPACITOR OR BURNT POINTS ON THE PRESSURE SWITCH. THE CAPACITOR IS EITHER IN A RELAY BOX AT THE WELL OR IN THE MOTOR CASING. HOPE THIS HELPS. JODY

If the problem is the motor you could probably get the data needed off the motor's brand label and find an equivalent one on harborfreight.com or something.

Plastic impellers and pump cases are great for circulation applications but tend to wear out in pressure and or dirty water applications. The space between the impeller and case gets larger as it wears until the pump just circulates water inside the case.
Pump selection is dependent on applications, with pressure, volume, suction, temperture and fluid to be pumped only a few of the considerations.
Check for restricted suction strainer and hose first, then look at discharge side for kinked hoses and other obstructions. Then open case and look for worn impeller and volutes, occasionally there will be something lodged in the impeller like string or plastic film. Replacing the impeller alone if badly worne may help but won't bring the pressure back to new pump specs, you will need to replace the volute or case too if they are combined.
I use cast iron pumps for pumping silt laden irrigation water and have to rebuild them every 5-6 years, My suction head is 3' and head pressure is 35 psi. frankly I expected better life from cast iron but have to take what I can get.

Question edited for correct spelling of maker 'Noen' to 'Moen'. 'Fix' as in it is leaking? Or tighten it down because it is wobbly, or something completely different?

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