20 Most Recent Moen 3175 Legend One Handle Shower Faucet With trol Pressure Balancing Valve.... Questions & Answers

There's a clog in the shut off, line to faucet, or in the faucet cartridge ... hook it up to a supply tube on another faucet, it connect to a garden hose to check if faucet is problem. Water pressure problems on following link: http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-water-pressure.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

if older home pipes possibly corroded shut

unruly is right....if your shower valve is the model that has those isolation valves built into it...If yours does, you will have no problem seeing them once the cover plate is off...If there is no sign of any bulging fittings on each side of the valve, with a slotted drive stem in the middle of each one looking back you, directly in the eye, then you have to take a different approach to solving the pressure problem. That approach will cost you the price of a new shower head...because that's your only remaining option, (short of hiring a plumbing contractor to install a couple of flow reducing fittings or isolation/metering valves on your supply piping)(a five hundred dollar bill will buy that option), available for a FIY project. A new head can be purchased for under 10-12 bucks....just make sure to take your old one with you when you go to buy the new one....this will identify the means in which your shower head attaches to your shower arm pipe. It wouldn't hurt to pick up a small jar of pipe thread compound or Teflon tape too. Some shower head re-attachment applications require a pretty snug fit to prevent leaks at the connection joint. You see, there will be more pressure on that connection now, because the new shower head you bought has a restrictor built into it, thus your water pressure issue is resolved, but that added resistance also causes higher pressures in the shower arm and piping supplying it inside the wall. That is why you should use thread compound or Teflon tape on the threads when you re-install the new head. ...And also, the threads on the shower arm have been used once already, which deforms the threaded area slightly, making for a loose-er fit when re-used. The Teflon tape can take up the space by adding a couple extra wraps on the threads. And before attaching the new head, paint a light coat of pipe thread compound on top of the Teflon tape, (brush it on in a clockwise direction only...the same direction you rolled the Teflon tape onto the threads)(and take care not to get any pipe thread compound inside the shower arm....the flow orifice in your new shower head will be sensitive to any debris that try to pass through it)(it will be prone to clogging)(and it will continue to slowly clog as time goes by...another reason to do the in-line valve option,.... and require being flushed out occasionally), and that will surely give you a good tight seal. Not to be too commanding, If I could Just suggest one more thing.....Please use a smooth face wrench, (like an open end wrench or adjustable cresant wrench) to tighten chrome finished fittings and pipe. If you have to use channel locks or pliers in the place of a strap wrench, get one of your best wash cloths and wrap it around the pipe or fitting before gripping it with the jaws of the pliers. If you have a spouse...you might want to keep the wash cloth thing between us guys, but it really needs to be a cloth wit a thick layer of material, otherwise the pliers will pinch right through and be useless....if you have a leather shammy....that would work the very best... Well I lied....there is one other option, if your real attached to your present shower head, you could purchase an in-line shut-off valve and install it directly behind your shower head, on the shower arm. It would have to be an in-line globe, (best)-needle, (good)-or ball, (okay), valve type of configuration, so you could adjust the flow to a more suitable volume/pressure. Because the new shower head will not be adjustable and you will have the pressure reduced to the set gallons per minute setting that the head was designed and manufactured to flow at. Get a nice chrome plated brass bodied in-line valve, with a globe type valve design and install it just up stream, (directly behind), your shower head and this will be the best DIY option you could take. I would definitely opt for this method to reduce my water pressure out of the shower head....because it not only allows me to adjust the pressure to just the way I like it, but it also makes me a proactive part of conservation of our fresh water supplies, by allowing me to easily turn off the water flow while I lather up with soap, then easily turn it back on to rinse.....This option may cost more around 30 bucks, and it may prove to add a degree of difficulty toward finding the right in-line valve, but I think it will pay for itself in the short/longish run. If you have a "mom and pop", locally owned hardware shop left in or around your town/city, I would suggest looking for the "best" in-line valve there. A shower head in-line metering/shut off valve...chrome plated brass body, 1st-globe valve configuration...2nd-or needle valve....lastly-ball valve configuration, it must have a stainless steel stem and handle/lever for easy operation, and the connection configuration must be 1/2" FIPS inlet side and 1/2" MIPS outlet side for best results, mechanically and aesthetically. You find yourself this exact valve and it's a done deal. Or just get a new head and bing bang bam...pressure problem fixed.....just like that. good luck and may the Plumb Gods smile upon your efforts..... ps....peel off the excess Teflon tape and wipe off the excess pipe thread compound when you finish attaching you new head/in-line valve. Beautiful...pss...there are a few web based retailers that sell hard to find fittings and valves ...like the in-line valve I've suggested...I can only remember a part of one of the retailers names....McMasters and???. that should get you there.

no but you will get a cross conection problem

tun off the water.
unscrew teh allen screw under neath the handle. pull out hteh handle. undo the wall plate and gain access to the cartridge in the handle body. turn the artridge around 180 degree and reisntall all parts.

you need a cartridge puller, it installs onto the faucet and you thenntighten the bolt and the cartridge pulls out, about $12 at home depot or ace

when installing a new cartridge it is nessesary to put stem grease on the o-rings or you are taking a chace of cutting the o-ring which will cause the coldwater to mix with the hot causing the lack of hot water this is a very common problem but easily preventable with a little grease

when installing a new cartridge you need to put stem grease on the o-rings or you are taking a great risk of cutting the o-rings upon installation. doing this will allow the cold water to mix with the hot causing this problem it is quite common for this to happen without the grease

You need to replace the stem. This will not cost you a dime; call MOEN and tell them the issue, with the model number, and they will send the replacement part. Many people don't know that MOEN is guaranteed for life (to the original owner)......another words, say you are the original owner :) They will not ask any questions. Good luck! PS Also works on any MOEN faucets you may have.

If it is hard to pull out or push in the valve then you will need to replace it. On moen valves you can not rebuild the cartridge you can only replace them. A new cartridge will cost you around 15 to 20 dollars.

Also I would tack the cartridge with you when you gao and buy it because they make 2 different ones.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer

the anti scold control, must be adjusted.You need to turn the water off for this,remove the handle,and the chrome sleeve,it is usually located just under the handle

Your issue could be caused by the water restrictor in the shower head. To know for sure, remove the shower head and then turn the water on.

Very tough water restrictions have manufacturers using plastic water restrictors in the shower heads.

Although you are not supose to, some shower heads can be taken apart to modify, or remove the restrictor.

I hope this helps you.

shut off water to shower, remove knob by popping cover off and removing screw, remove valve cover by just pulling straight out. there will be a retaining clip that holds cartridge in you will need to remove, Pull out old cartridge and replace with new.

Assuming that you have hot water at other faucets the problem could be a varnish buildup in the cartridge. After shutting off the hot and cold water either by turning off the main or at the faucet stops (if equipped), remove the cartridge and soak it in white vinegar to break up the varnish. You can clean it up with an old toothbrush and make sure that it is working. It should rattle when you shake it. new cartridges are not very expensive so you can just buy a replacement at any home center as well. If you are the original owner of the faucet Moen will send you a free replacement cartridge if you call them.

The hot side is clogged with junk from your water heater and needs to be cleaned out.

My first suggestion is to have the installation plumber return to adjust the faucet to function properly

The valve has a faceplate that attaches with two screws and depicts the hot and cold mixing scheme on it. in the center of this is where the valve stem is located. It has a chrome escutcheon that slides into the faceplate and over the stem.There is a small -U- schaped clip that slides into the top of the valve body where the valve stem is seated that retains the valve stem. With all this in place all you have left is the acylic handle that has a unique shape to it on the internal portion that corresponds to the shape and position of the valve stm. Align the handle and stem and push the handle on. A small screw goes into the center of the handle to attach it to the valve stem. LASTLY you should have the acrylic button that covers the screw holding the handle on. All you do is align it appropriately and push the button onto the handle. The chrome handle version is essentially the same but is retained by a small allen screw on the underside of the base of the handle. I hope this assists you and thanks for using Fix Ya. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Moen makes a puller for this situation...

you can purchase at your hardware store.

You need a #1225 replacement cartridge. Pop the cap off of the handle. Use phillips screwdriver to remove the handle screw. Pull the handle off. Next, unscrew the two screws holding the cover plate on. After removing plate, there should be two integral stops, one on each side of the valve. Close the valves using a straight slot screwdriver. Pull on the brass cartridge spindle to ensure that the water is off. Remove the stop tube, which is a chrome cylinder at the center of the valve body. Look for a brass retainer clip at the top of the cylindrical portion of the valve body where the handle connects. It has a small hole and after you pull it out, you will see that it horse shoe shaped. Use your pliers or an awl stuck through the hole to pull the clip out. Note the position of your cartridge. There is a notch on the end of one side of the brass spindle at the center of the cartridge. Make note of its position. If you install it and get hot and cold reversed, just take the handle back off, and spin the brass spindle 180 degrees. The replacement cartridge comes with a white plastic tool designed to make removal easier. Use it. After loosening with the plastic tool, take your pliers and grab the brass stem. Pull as straight as you can. If cartridge will not budge, you might need a Moen cartridge removal tool. Do not spray with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench unless you like that taste in your water. If your clip won't go back on, it's because you didn't align the two ears on the cartridge. The ears should be at three o'clock and six o'clock. The cartridge must also be pushed in all the way. Good luck!