20 Most Recent LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Not motor. Most likely one of these: bad bearing or seal, worn shock absorbers, broken spider(drum support to spindle)

It is not uncommon for items that get loose in the washer (paper clips, coins, etc.) to slip underneath the "paddles" and then make noise as the drum turns. While an annoyance, it is not anything to be overly concerned about. Eventually the item(s) will come back out.

send it all back and get a new one.tell your tech that you only need the front panel that goes to your washer,if they send something else that needs more parts to work,DO NOT PAY FOR ANYTHING,IT IS A SCAM,notify your techs boss

Great advice. I used a portion of you plan. Pulled off the top, but since the softener cup is on the right, I only uncliped the 3 clips on that side of the assembly. With those loose, I could pry gently up on the back portion of the assembly lid, and the drawer pulled out.

I also see no need for the cover, other than a measuring device. So removed the screws at the front, pushed the assembly back into the washer, and unclipped the rest of the lid. Once the lid of the tray assembly was off, it was easy to remove the softener cover. The only challenging part was getting the re-closed assembly to go back into the cut-out in the face metal. I got caught a couple times, but getting my hand up under the assemble allowed be to push evenly up on both sides as I pushed it forward into place.

Now the door works fine again. Seems to be a significant design flaw by LG.

Hope the helps other.

Does spin only work well?

I would replace the thermistor. $6 part. Worth a try. Are you sure the error is not "tE" instead of "LE"?

Have you tried eBay for the parts?

Try thinning softner with water.

turn off the child lock CL

The impeller may have come off the pump motor shaft. Generally, you will notice a louder sound when the pump runs if this happened.
Unplug the machine. Remove the filter recess by removing the one screw inside and using a putty knife at the left and / or right edge and popping it out. Pull the machine out about 18 inches and tip it back, resting it against the wall. Remove two more screws behind where the recess was holding the pump housing on. Reach under the machine and remove pump. There is a tab to depress under the pump housing to release it from the base. The pump motor is held onto the housing by three screws. Remove them and inspect the impeller to see if it has come off the shaft. If it has, pushing it back on will not solve the problem, as it will come off again. Install new pump motor and reassemble. Clean washer tub with the longest, hottest cycle and three Ah-fresh tablets, Whirlaway hot tub cleaner, Smellywasher cleaner (smellywashercleaner.com) or Tide washer cleaner. Repeat. From now on, use only 1 tablespoon of HE laundry detergent per load (1/2 T if 2X concentrate) and only 1 teaspoon of fabric softener per load if you use it. (these machines use very little water, and thus require reduced amounts of additives to work properly)

is there visible water in the washer if so its not draining and wont spin until it does. Check the pump clean out for a clog. If the water is in the tub and the cleanout screen is clear listen to the pump run is it just humming like its jammed or bad? or can you hear the pump run like it should? Does the door lock? It has to or it will not spin. Is the basket free try spinning the basket by hand. Or does it look like its trying to spin but slipping the could be a bad rotor in the back they sometimes strip out as they have plastic gearing and the shaft for the basket is steel and will just break off all the tiny plastic teeth on the rotor. It back of the unit is a panel 2 to 4 scews take that off now you see a round wheel like thing with 1 nut on it remove the nut pull off the rotor and look in it you will see the gear teeth in the center hole they may be there or they may be missing.

2nd set of buttons from the right. says beeper, push it

since it is a washer-dryer, the lint trap is in line with the drain. you have to empty the drain basket. there's an access door on the bottom left, first take the little tube out and drain the remaining water, then open the large drain cap to the right and clean out the trap. once you're done put it all back together and it should work. you're supposed to do this every few months. It was too much for me to deal with so i ended up buying a separate dryer and just use the washer .

door lock is not designed as a repairable item.just buy a new one.if it still dosent work,give the door an additional push.if it still dosent go ,brobably a fault with the main power board.(rare)

i think it is a tE error code. thermistor issue. easy, cheap fix. check out appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic,com for how to videos and parts.

Press the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously to enter QC test mode and check the frequency of the water level, if the display shows 248 or more: NO: Check the sensor switch assembly and also the pressure hose, replace either if faulty. YES: Press the START/PAUSE button twice while in QC test mode and check whether the drum spins at low speed, this is normal. If no reaction from the drum at all the the main PWB assembly board will need replacing.

Remove the hose from the machine and remove the blockage using a stiff piece of wire.

Many F/L washers, but not all, have a moulded channel or hole in the door seal rubber to drain that water back into the drum. It would seem that yours doesn't have one, or it's blocked. I hope that helps...Good luck....Nomess