LG WM3431 Front Load Washer / Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Several reports in Australia of brand new LG Washer/Dryer combo (model number WD14700RD) getting dHE error's with very 1st dry cycle.
I bought a LG WD14700RD last week, and yup, washed fine.

Dryer cycle results in dHE error.
Everytime.
Cycle stops & you just have to power off the machine.

Service man found several possible causes.
He unscrewed the top of the machine off & said dHE errors are related to the dryer components. He started a dryer cycle & watched & lisened to machine.
He observed the dryer fan was not starting up.
He unplugged the power cable to the dryer & replugged.
The fan now started up, but only with cold air.
He then looked towards the front of the machine & noticed several cables had come loose from their sockets, one he identified was the heater element cable.
He plugged that back in & another unknown cable was also loose. He plugged that back in.
It worked.
dHE error gone & dryer fan started & pumped out hot air.

It seems at least a few of these machines during transit (from South Korea?) fail due to cables coming loose from their sockets.
dHE errors result if fan cable & fan heating element cable come loose.
My thanks to WAM electrical repairs in Box Hill (Melbourne) for helpfull advice & successfull repair.
For people looking at buying this machine, it washes & now dries perfectly well & I am happy with the machine.
But beware that this problem is out there (there are several other reports I read) and it have this problem, which is easily fixed but does require a service call out, under warranty of course.
Steve, East Melb.
[email protected]

Unfortunately you won't find one.

LG only supply their servicing manuals to their repair centres and strictly enforce their copyright, so the manuals are not available to the public and when they do occasionally appear the material has been stolen.

Usually I'd recommend a generic repair manual such as the one by Haynes, but LG's direct drive system and a number of other unique technical features mean that the Haynes book isn't as useful as it could be. The WM3431HW is a large capacity and technically advanced washer dryer so it's certainly not as straightforward to service as a traditional front loading washer or dryer. Many LG spare parts can also be difficult to source outside of their own approved servicing organisation.

I respectfully suggest that you either get LG to fix your machine or post a question on this site describing the problem to see if we can assist you.

Broken drive belt tho your model number is not for a dryer.

did you unplug it,leave it unplugged for 5 minutes and plug it back in,if it's to hard to get to plug flip the breaker and leave the power off for 5 minutes or longer when you power it up again the door should unlock.here's a link to check hope it helps https://www.google.com/search?q=lg+front+load+washer+how+to+manually+open+a+locked+door&oq=lg+front+load+washer+how+to+manually+open+a+locked+door&aqs=chrome..69i57.21935j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1

Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD / WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However, WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual downloaded from http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my repairs.

Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for your screw-ups.

Trouble date: January 2006

Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.

Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without “Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.

Trouble date: March 2008

Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.

Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.

Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.

Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at 2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while the kitchen timer was still running.

Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and 4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.

Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.

Lessons learnt:

Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.

Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the Duct Assembly (condensing).

Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.

Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side. Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and secure bellows.

Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush. Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end. Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.

Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and it appears to be so for many users as well.

User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning maintenance is required.

extracted from http://www99.epinions.com/content_427670867588?alert_type=0&submit=Submit
please visit and leave a positive comment if your trouble was solved. tq.

did it stop running or just not drying with heat?

No agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

you need to find and replace the moisture sensor in the unit.

1. Start the drier normally 2. Before the "EHE" error appears, open the drier door! 3. Because the door was opened during program, "dE" error is shown 4. Close the door and press "start/pause" to continue 5. Program will continue normally; problem fixed!

you need to replace the water inlet valve. most machines tell u to turn water off to washer when not in use. what a pain that is

The door lock assembly part number: 6601ER1005B

Which switch part number do you require?

This is normal problem in washing machines filter has blocked check the inlet pipe filter need clean once in a month

The problem will be, that you have a small piece of grit, or calcium/ lime build up or other particle, that is stuck in the water inlet solenoid valve.Where the water inley pipe goes into the back of the machine, turn the water supply off and remove the pipe. Open the machine and remove the solenoid valve to which it was attached. Flush it out from either side with a strong force of water, even let it soak in vinegar over night, then rinse it out again.Reassamble and try it again.

see the diagram:

There is probably lint clogging the air supply. I fixed this by removing the lid and back access panel,then unscrewing the air supply channel from behing the drum. It was tricky, and I had to squeeze my fingers in, while I pulled on the channel, because it is impossible to remove the whole channel. I saw a step by step online about removing the top and air blower assembly, but this didn't solve my problem. The lint ball was further down, close to the drum.

When you try to start it, does the door lock?

You most likely have a bad thermostat or heating element.

The PF error code indicates a power failure. This might occur while machine is working due to an external disturbance like a storm or power outage in the area. If the PF error code is displayed, turn off the power to the washer, unplug it for 10 seconds, and restart the wash cycle. If the error code continues to present after these steps have been taken, then the washer may require service.