Delta Machinery Delta 37-275X X SERIES 6" Professional Jointer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Yes, you can download it here.

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I just tried to upload the manual to the site but it wouldn't let me due to the size so I'll just give you the link to go and get it. http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/servicenet_home.aspx When you go to the website there is a box "Need a Manual" just type DJ15 and it will bring it up for you.

Often, the 220 wiring diagram is on the back side of the plate that's screwed on the motor junction box. Or it is on the spec plate on the motor.

First, safety stuff: Make sure the jointer is unplugged and be very careful with the knives, they are quite sharp.You should have enough room between the tables to get the knives out, if not remove the stationary, outfeed table. There are four hex-cap screws on each knife that hold the clamp bar on. Remove them with an allen wrench or hex driver if you have one and take the clamp bar and knife out. Pay attention to which way the bevel is on the knife so you put them back on the same way. If the blades have never been turned, they are double sided and can be turned around so the opposite side is out. The knife and clamp bar are designed to go on only the right way. Make sure you get the hex-bolts on very tight. Do the other knife, replace the table and make a couple test runs to check allignment.

I've had good luck finding them at this website, though you'll have to check both the rockwell and delta pages. Look for publication reprints, and when you get to the manufacturer's page, click on the Pub. type heading to sort the column into jointers, table saws, etc. You may be able to find something of comparable age that will have descriptions to help you, as many models had relatively slight variations from one another. I'm not sure what vintage that is, but there are general line catalogs and instruction manuals listed in the Delta pages that go back many years. Some of them will have basic jointer instructions that may directly pertain to your model. Also check that model number carefully. I've not seen letters in their model numbers before. Usually it is two, followed by three digits. Compare this link for an indication of what you could be missing.

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If it's a newer model you'll be able to find exploded parts diagrams and user manuals here.
Otherwise, check the Delta publications section at this site. Bear in mind you might be able to download a copy of a similar model's manual that will provide most of the information you need for proper use and adjustment of yours. Otherwise consult the many fine reference books available that include sections on proper tune up and adjustment of jointers, from places like Fine Woodworking, Taunton Press, etc. etc. They'll have the basic information about changing knives, adjusting and shimming tables, etc.

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First, unplug the jointer, then, insure that all the cutters are set to the same height. Raise the outfeed table with a straight piece of wood or a framing square sitting on it and extending over the cutters. Each cutter should just touch the board without raising it. The infeed table is lowered by how deep you want to cut.
Always look at the grain of the board you are cutting. Never allow the cutters to strike grain that is running down into the cutters. It will chip out chunks of wood. The grain should be tapering down away from the cutters, back toward you, never toward them.

The tapering you mentioned usually happens when the outfeed table is lower than the cutter tops.

You may download a copy of the manual here.

no info generic answer sears.com -----chraftsman.com ------online search using make and model ----stores that carry sears power tools

If you're still interested, please see this answer and follow the links.

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I can send you pics of the one I made from plywood for this same jointer. If you're looking for an original I can't help you there.

is the recess deep enough on the bed and perp joints if so is the mortar the right consistency. a little tip is to wet the joints with water before jointing. it stop the mortar drying out to quick

kakima is 100% correct, but to add to it so you understand how he got that 27 cubic feet... you can picture a cube. A cubic yard is 3 foot tall x 3 foot wide x 3 foot high. (A cubic foot is 1 foot tall x 1 foot wide x 1 foot high). So 3 x 3 x 3 = 27.

http://www.goldblatttool.com/Manuals/Concrete%20Mixer%2007855.pdf

I do not have a clue as to what you have but a simple switch has two connections and you can connect either way.

Two part epoxi injected or poured into the crack.

with high temp refractory mortar for fireplaces

There are ones where the operator rides on and others where the operator walks behind.

I guess you will have to call your local handyman. And since it is getting bigger repair it ASAP. Maybe you should check the entire house and find out if there is any other damp spots. Call a certified house inspector and get him to work.

What make and model?