20 Most Recent Delta Machinery Delta 37-658 Jointer Cutter head Knives for 37-190/195 6 inch Jointers - Se Questions & Answers


I guess the belt isnt fixed up properly leading some mishaps with the tension. Try remounting the belt as below:
Unplug the jointer. Invert it on a thick cloth to protect the blades and the work surface. Underneath you will see a base plate that covers the bottom and is held in place by seven screws. Remove all of the seven screws and set them aside with the baseplate. With the baseplate removed, you will see the power leads running to the main switch and back to the motor.
Remove the hex bolts that hold the motor in place. There are two on one side of the motor (indicated by purple rectangles in the picture), and another one on the other side. Remove them completely to allow the motor sufficient room to move in order to place the drive belt over the motor spindle. If your hex key is not long enough for this job, hold the key in a pair of pliers or vice grip to remove them. (Now that the jointer is disassembled, this is a good time to clean all the motor housing thoroughly and lubricate, if applicable.)
Lift and rotate the motor and attach the drive belt. The motor will not easily return to its normal position. In the picture you can see just how far the motor has been turned to get the drive belt on. Insert the hex bolts again, deep inside a very narrow space, whilst using a fair bit of force to hold the motor in place. This is the difficult part, and you may utter a few choice words at this point and consider some unauthorized modifications to the housing. With patience and persistence you should be able to secure the hex bolts once more and once again have an operational planer/jointer.

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Jan 17, 2012


Go to eReplacementParts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair.


If you need more help come back.Post / thumbs / testimonial are welcome!

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Nov 17, 2010


You can change out the bearings no problem, but it might not be worth it. If the bearings are gone, what else is going? The motor next? Drive? Belts,? Chains? The new planers are cheap enough to buy a new one, cost to repair is about the same by the time you figure labor. I have had every planer made in my shop here, and the best one I ever had was a little Ryobi, But right now it is a Craftsman, only because it has the big knives in it. Don't buy one with those tiny 2 sided knives, they aren't worth a flip. You cold get another Delta, same one and use this one for parts, knives especially. we don't buy Delta anymore. Since they went Taiwan, we can buy a grizzly if we want Taiwan for half the cost. Hope this helps.

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Aug 16, 2010


I would either replace the gibs or have the machinist put thread inserts into the larger holes to use the original size screws.

You may be able to find parts for it at Grizzly.com They sell the Tiawan tools but have an extensive inventory parts and the quality of tools is better than the typical Tiawan tools. Just find a model that looks like yours and see if they have the parts. You can order them online. Don't tell them that it's not for a grizzly tool, they don't like to sell parts to ppl who didn't buy thier tools from them. Some of thier tools have been re-engineered.
I've had good luck with thier parts and the tools I've bought from them.

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Jul 08, 2010


The knives could be dull, you would have to be the judge of that. If the bevel & face are rusty they are probably dull. They can be honed or taken to a sharpening shop.

The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

The board could also be convex to start with. To fix that problerm start jointing at the start of the convex part and not at the end of the board.

Good luck,
Frank

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Jul 08, 2010


While the final effects of a stone or concrete wall are stunning, the work to make it beautiful is time-consuming and difficult. Tools are very important in masonry work. Having the right tools for a certain job make all the difference. Jointers come in many different sizes and shapes. Learn the various types and how to use them and you can make quick work of a difficult task. Use an e-jointer for narrower spaces between the stones. There is no handle on the e-jointer, making it easier to smooth and shape the joints between the stones. Whenever your hand is closer to the surface, you can exert more control. Get a bead jointer for raised masonry bricks. These jointers come in two sizes, 1/4-inch by 5/16-inch and 3/8-inch by 1/2-inch. They are small, strong, simple tools that can chip off the excess of a joint that is sticking up off the brink. You do not want to make a deep joint between raised bricks. Change your joint tool to a brick masonry mortar joint raker tool if you are making your project from rougher materials, such as adobe brick or split stone. This tool has many more grooves, which will fit in various sized joints. Turn it on the end for narrow joints and use the curved notch for more intricate patterns between the stones. Switch to a grapevine mortar jointer for very clean lines between the bricks. This tool is used primarily for a colonial look, which is even and measured. Your can get this jointer with a wooden handle for a more even grip.

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Aug 27, 2008


First, safety stuff: Make sure the jointer is unplugged and be very careful with the knives, they are quite sharp.
You should have enough room between the tables to get the knives out, if not remove the stationary, outfeed table. There are four hex-cap screws on each knife that hold the clamp bar on. Remove them with an allen wrench or hex driver if you have one and take the clamp bar and knife out. Pay attention to which way the bevel is on the knife so you put them back on the same way. If the blades have never been turned, they are double sided and can be turned around so the opposite side is out. The knife and clamp bar are designed to go on only the right way. Make sure you get the hex-bolts on very tight. Do the other knife, replace the table and make a couple test runs to check allignment.

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Mar 09, 2012


I've had good luck finding them at this website, though you'll have to check both the rockwell and delta pages. Look for publication reprints, and when you get to the manufacturer's page, click on the Pub. type heading to sort the column into jointers, table saws, etc. You may be able to find something of comparable age that will have descriptions to help you, as many models had relatively slight variations from one another. I'm not sure what vintage that is, but there are general line catalogs and instruction manuals listed in the Delta pages that go back many years. Some of them will have basic jointer instructions that may directly pertain to your model. Also check that model number carefully. I've not seen letters in their model numbers before. Usually it is two, followed by three digits. Compare this link for an indication of what you could be missing.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Aug 02, 2011


If it's a newer model you'll be able to find exploded parts diagrams and user manuals here.
Otherwise, check the Delta publications section at this site. Bear in mind you might be able to download a copy of a similar model's manual that will provide most of the information you need for proper use and adjustment of yours. Otherwise consult the many fine reference books available that include sections on proper tune up and adjustment of jointers, from places like Fine Woodworking, Taunton Press, etc. etc. They'll have the basic information about changing knives, adjusting and shimming tables, etc.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Delta Machinery... | Answered on Mar 29, 2011


First, unplug the jointer, then, insure that all the cutters are set to the same height. Raise the outfeed table with a straight piece of wood or a framing square sitting on it and extending over the cutters. Each cutter should just touch the board without raising it. The infeed table is lowered by how deep you want to cut.
Always look at the grain of the board you are cutting. Never allow the cutters to strike grain that is running down into the cutters. It will chip out chunks of wood. The grain should be tapering down away from the cutters, back toward you, never toward them.

The tapering you mentioned usually happens when the outfeed table is lower than the cutter tops.

Delta Machinery... | Answered on May 25, 2009


look to the place that sold it to you . we do not know who that was where you live

Masonry Tools | Answered on Jan 05, 2020


Sometimes the most simplest of fixes is verifying that you have voltage at your outlet and that you have voltage getting to the motor.

Check the motor's overload button; reset if necessary.
Take resistance readings:
  • start capacitor
  • run capacitor
  • and motor

If anyone of their specs are out of whack, that's the component that is defective and will need to be replaced.

Masonry Tools | Answered on Nov 09, 2019


Model 149.23628 and part number are the same.

Masonry Tools | Answered on Jun 15, 2019

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