MotorGuide STANDARD MOTOR REPLACEMENT PARTS SWITCHES AND COMPONENTSDescript - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

This is most often caused by a faulty 24 Volt, section, (usually damaged output semiconductors, or the drive?) in the speed controller, fault, the only "Fix" is replacement. Simply obtain the entire speed controller and replace it "En Bloc" as it were. You will need to also obtain a service manual so you can disassemble it and obtain the parts numbers for the replacement parts.Otherwise take it to a professional and ask for a "Quote" as to prospective costings and go from there.

put the motor in the water and ensure that the propeller is at the rear. On the head of the unit (where the direction indicator is) push down and turn the round plastic plate (this plate has the direction indicator on it) clockwise until the direction indicator mark (mine is blue and is about one inch long) is in line with the alignment bar on the non-moveable part on the head. You will hear several "clicks" and this means that the indicator plate is clicking around to the proper directional alignment with the motor in the water.

It very likely has a power transistor to vary the current to the motor. I am guessing that transistor has a collector to emitter short. That can be verified with a common ohm meter on a low ohms scale.

Well if it goes in reverse, to me that would suggest that the batteries are wired in reverse? Either that or the controller has gone faulty?

I believe you may have a bad low voltage circuit board problem. I do not think they make the board any longer but you may be able to convert it to work by bypassing the circuit board. I am working on one now.

You have a high resistance short either inside the wiring or the lower unit. This will cause a voltage drop. I would be very careful not to keep it connected too long cuz the battery is trying to keep up with the current demand and may explode.

check the power switch for voltage,, short it across the pins and see if the motor runs, if it does, replace the switch

Me too, if anyone knows where this is one, in the meantime will look to see if standard diagram for all machines.

I have a motorguide trolling motor model 2600 #s/n 19409 can't find out what thrust it is

l am looking the same thing i know how to by pass the board. But it will run on high speed. it's not what I want to do. But I can not find the part anywhere. Mine is the 24v dura amp if you find out any place to get parts can you let me know I will do the same. They stoped selling the parts in 03

Look at following diagrams to help sort out electric motor wiring.The wiring diagram should show on side of motor.Here is basic motor wiring:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Motor-wiring-500.jpgTest each lead as shown in following image. In the case of 240Volt, the 2nd wire is not Neutral, but testing is same.http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Motor-capacitor2-800.jpgIf you have 2 speed motor, then you will have switch or timer controlling the speed:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GM40-wiring-2-speed-pump-400.jpg If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

CHECK ROTARY SPEED SELECTOR SWITCH. $20 PART IF BAD.

Shaft bearing replacement on any motor requires that the rotor (the part that spins) assembly be removed from the stator (the non-moving body that contains windings) and the end bells (the motor ends that the bearings are supported within). Once the rotor assembly is removed, shaft must be pressed out of the bearings. Shops that do this work employ an arbor press as shown below for this work.This is done best by hanging the entire rotor assembly by the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is the inner ring of the bearing that is pressed on the rotor's shaft. The outer race is the outer ring of the bearing that fits in the end bells. The ball bearings are located between the inner and outer races. If you lack an arbor press to hang the rotor from, you might cut a U shaped slot only slightly wider than the shaft in the edge of a piece of flat steel stock. You could secure the flat steel between two uprights with the rotor hanging in the U slot. Repeated blows to the top of the shaft with a softer metal than shaft - or with a block of wood between the hammer and shaft - should force the shaft downward and eventually free it from the bearing. By supporting the rotor by the inner race, no undue stress is placed on the ball bearings - and it could be reinstalled again if needed. If you are replacing the bearing, you do not need to be as fussy with supporting by the inner race. You must support by the inner race during removal if you need to reinstall the bearing as the bearing would be damaged if not.Installing a new bearing or reinstalling the old bearing on the shaft will require the the bearing is supported by the inner race and the rotor be pressed or driven into the inner race. If the shaft is driven or forced into the inner race and support of the bearing is not at the inner race, the balls in the bearing will be damaged and will be noisy, run hot and fail prematurely.If the bearings are to be pressed into end bells then they should be pressed or driven by the outer race, not the inner race. We're trying to drive or force the part of the bearing that is being held - rather than trying to transfer the pressure or blows through the steel balls that are between the inner and outer races. Use of an old socket, piece of steel pipe, etc. that has the same outside diameter as the outer race often works well to evenly transfer the blows directly to the outer race. Do not try to apply the blows by alternating the energy of the plows all around the race - keep the energy of the blows centered evenly. Use a block of wood to help absorb some of the energy to prevent damage to the bearing or causing pieces of steel from breaking off the pipe, hammer or socket. Always wear safety glasses and gloves!

This may help... Good Luck and God Bless, Luckymann77 http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/default.aspx?act=documentdetails.aspx&Documentid=81&category=Motor%20Guide%20Motor%20Diagrams%202004&MenuGroup=Home&SMID=195&SMSubID=57&nosearchprompt=1

Go to http://www.boats.net. Let me ask you a question, is it 5 speed? And if so have you lost some or all speeds but 5?. I so, them you need to take the lower unit apart and you will find solder laying in the bottom. You will see that the speed control coil wires at one if the terminals on the brush board has no solder. Clean it up along with the wires so that you see copper and re-solder. This is due to poor quality control on soldering at the manufacturer. When you re-assemble tighten the bolt 45-50 in-lbs only. No more.

www.boats.net but whats you problem?

my trolling motor has same problem, I replaced the (5) speed selector swith on the foot control and that solved nothing. I have the side selector switch (3 postiion) on order after testing with a meter

Its very easy:

Reprogramming the Wireless Foot Pedal or RemoteNOTE: This activation procedure applies to the foot pedal and remote.

IMPORTANT: To activate multiple foot pedals or remotes, the motor must be unplugged from the power source and then plugged

back into the power source between activating each control device.

1. Unplug the battery cables from the power source. Wait 30 seconds and then plug the motor into the power source.

2. In less than ten seconds, press and hold the "+" and "-" buttons on either the handheld remote or the foot pedal controller

simultaneously.

Trolling motor runs on it's own when plugged in,speed adjuster won't control speed and 3 position switch doesn't perform either..please help. motorguide 74lb thrust.

Hello. Here is a link that may provide you with the schematics and info you need to replace the part. Joe

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Motorguide/MotorGuide%20Pro%20Series/9B000001%20%26%20Up/Complete%20Trolling%20Motor(Model%20Pro%2070)%20(24%20Volt)/parts.html