Top 20 Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The float and needle are stuck (if carb separate from tank), the main jet is plugged with trash, or the diaphram needs replaced (carb mounted on tank)(not so likely with as little age as this has on it)

The main jet of the carburetor is clogged, most likely. You need to clean the carburetor. This is not too hard if you have some tools and are handy.

I hope this is helpful for you.

fresh gas, and remove your carb and clean it out, should take care of problem

Your mower engine has to have these things WORKING to run: 1. Compression (engine in good shape) 2. Strong Spark (magneto air gap has to be correct for strong spark) 3. Clean air ( good, clean air filter w/no air leaks) 4. Clean, fresh fuel supply (gas less than 30 days olds with an inline filter installed in mower's fuel line). These things are assuming the mower hasn't struck an immovable object such as concrete, tree stump etc. recently. This will shear the flywheel key and timing may be off so far that engine won't start. So, where would you like to start my friend? Try checking these things. In the meanwhile....we can try to "coax" the engine into running. Remove the spark plug. Get an aerosol can of carb/choke cleaner spray. Spray a couple of shots into the engine. Reinstall plug. Choke the carb and attempt to start. This may or may not work, according to the conditions listed earlier. If this doesn't get it running, remove the plug and try it again.
We are trying to get it to run on its own, so it will start (or attempt to start) drawing fuel from the carburetor. Sometimes the brass bolt that holds the carburetor float bowl on gets clogged. You drain the gas, remove the bolt and clean all the small hole in the bottom and along the sides of it. This bolt is also the main jet of the carb. Cleaning this with carb cleaner can only help. If you do this, use NO metal objects to poke or scrape the bolt. The holes are metered and have to stay that way. Check for spark, check your air filter, see if the plug gets wet after you attempt to start. If it doesn't get wet or even smell like gas, then likely you have a fuel flow problem. Try ALL these things and post back; and again, if you have hit something solid recently with the mower, you will have the replace the flywheel shear key. It is a small aluminum $1.00 part so don't worry. Post back as needed. We wish to help.

First, try taking the gas cap off and see if will continue to run. If it does, the vent hole in the cap is clogged. If it does not, then you will most likely need to "rebuild" the carburetor. See if you can get me the engine model number that is posted on the engine.

Check the brackets at each end of the spring to see if one get bent. If so, carefully straighten it using a pair of pliers on each side of the bend - a rapid yank or attempt to bend it without both tools may not give good results - you could crack the bracket or make more bends than you want if you get too impatient with it. Controlled strength is the key.

If you can see inside the throttle body, verify that the mechanism actually is controlling the throttle when you operate it (the engine does not need to be running, but you may have to prop the choke open). The throttle should be wide open at the high speed setting.

Another possibility is the engine governor got whacked. That would be connected to a moving bracket (other than the manual speed setting mechanism) linked to the throttle shaft.

Hi,
Have been there and it stinks!!! What actually happens is that it bends the vertical shaft coming out of the motor slightly...then when the engine starts the shaft will vibrate and the engine will shut down.
With alot of work the shaft can be removed and straighten, but if you need to pay someone to do the removal then a new mower will be cheaper...
I have used a torch and a long pipe to straighten it enough so that it would work, but it still did vibrate and put your hands to sleep when mower for any length of time.

Wish that there was better news for you but, unfortunately a perfectly good mower is ruined...

heatman101

See if your mower has a float bowl on bottom of carb, if so then remove that and see if gas runs out with the float in down position..hanging, then lightly push float up and see if gas stops running, if that is o.k. then clean screw that holds bvowl on and there are 2 holes in this screw, 1 large and 1 tiny make sure they are clean, run a bread tie through the holes then reassemble and check your spark plug and see if it is wet or fludded, dry it off and try to start again, try to spray carb cleaner in carb and pull once started you may have to choke to keep going till all your OLD gas is ran through....Good Luck

Did you check the filter? If the engine doesn't get air they it could cause it to die out like that. Also make sure that there isn't anything in the air line to the carb.

Did you check the gas line and make sure that you are getting enough fuel?

Bypassing probably isn't a good option as far as the kill switch is concerned because it is an important safety feature you want to always have. I'm not sure if you are in need of the bracket or the cable. Parts are available, finding them is the usual problem. OK

The cable can be found here. There are 2 listed. One is the traction (drive) and the other is brake (kill switch).
http://www.mowpart.com/partslookup.html#/Toro_Consumer/20018%2c_22%22_Recycler_Lawnmower%2c_2002_(SN_220000001-220300000)/HANDLE_ASSEMBLY/20018-25560-2002/3329%7c%7e334-%7c%7e3340008-0006

The bracket is possibly listed here as part number 6. It is listed as the mount for the switch. Your mower has different serial numbers and about 3 versions of diagrams are listed. This vendor has very good diagrams that include yours. Here is the diagram of the switch bracket with the starter assembly. If this isn't what you need, click on the menu tab above the diagram to view another location on the mower.

http://www.mowpart.com/partslookup.html#/Toro_Consumer/20018%2c_22%22_Recycler_Lawnmower%2c_2002_(SN_220000001-220300000)/ELECTRIC_START_ASSEMBLY/20018-25560-2002/3329%7c%7e334-%7c%7e3340009-0007

Hello, I have found a number of service/parts dealers in San Jose... as for who's closest to you is only guess work for me as that is a fairly large territory. Here is a list of three:

Hitchcock Garden Tool and Supply, 676 Auzerais St.

(408) 998-8111

Sharpening Mechanics, 2940 Bascom Ave.

(408) 377-2568

Centerville Saw, 3516 Peralta Blvd.

(510) 793-0432

And here is the TORO dealer/service link page to see more locations. Hope this helps you out.

https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?space=CommunityPage&cached=true&parentname=CommunityPage&parentid=2&in_hi_userid=30166&control=SetCommunity&CommunityID=226&PageID=30037

You can search for your manual as well as other helpful information at the following site:

https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt/community/product_center/225#productDetailsPage

It would be helpful to have your Model Number and the Year your machine was made.

check your oil is it up to full, then I would check to see if you have compresson, pull your plug and roll over and feel with finger ,but don't touch spark plug wire or you will light up! next I would check for spark, then for fuel, make sure the carb is getting fuel,,,check your hoses and fuel cap and clean your carb and needle/seat and make sure gas will run through the fuel line. Also you could have sheared a flywheel key

the choke out you are talking about could of been a lean condition and smoked the eng rings
Good Luck compresson test should tell all 2StrokeJim

can you roll it over by hand? this will eliminate the internals of engine, pull your spark plugs out and see if it will roll over by hand, let me know what you find out

First, check for spark. Pull the plug and attach the plugwire. Touch the threads to metal on the engine and pull the rope. If there isno spark, check to make sure the coil ground wire (found under the engineshroud attached to the side of the coil) is not grounded somewhere. To checkthe coil, pull off the engine shroud (also known as the blower housing), thenpull the thin black wire (not the thick black wire that connects to the plug) offthe side of the coil. This is the kill wire. Using the above procedure, checkagain for spark. If there is no spark, replace the coil. If there is spark,your problem is in the engine shut off circuit. The kill wire is grounding outsomewhere.
Note that over 90% of no start conditions on small engines are caused by fuel starvationand not lack of spark. Tecumseh's are notorious for having carb problems. Ifyour engine has a carb with a plastic float bowl, remove the bowl and clean itout and then replace the two O-rings in the bowl. One goes behind the drainscrew (or fuel shut off solenoid in some cases) and the other goes on thestand-pipe that protrudes out of the bowl. You can find a breakdown of the carbat a place like e Replacement Parts, etc. Look at the breakdown and you willsee the O-rings, stand pipe, and two springs, which must go back in the bowl inthe correct order.

If you have an aluminum float bowl, remove the carb, remove the bowl, take thescrew that holds the float bow on and hold it up to the light. There should betwo holes there and you should be able to see daylight through them. IF not,they are clogged. Take some fine wire (less than .020 in diameter) and cleanout the holes. Then make sure the main jet is not clogged. It is located on thebottom of the carb body and is inside the threaded hole that the float bowscrew \screws into. It not clean, clean it out. Make sure the float bowl isclean and that there are no minute holes it. Hold it up to the light and checkfor daylight. There should be none.

Put the carb back on and try to start the unit. If it still won't start, then Isuggest a carb teardown, an eight hour soak in solvent and rebuild the carb.Kits are available at your local small engine shop.

Yes you can just unhook the wire and see if you have spark then, only thing is if it is the kill switch then you will have to replace it or you won't be able to shut your mower off unless you choke it but that will eventually wash the oil from cylinder causing premature cylinder wear, hope this helps you

Check jackssmallenginerepair.com or ereplacementparts.com.

yes,, get replacements,, they just slide on and off, its very easily done

Got the same problem with mine, replaced the drive belt, removed the wheels and checked for rocks and pebbles, greased, checked also bottom of gearbox. grease was present no broken teeth, top pulley has excive side to side play. Have not disaasembled yet. Hope someone would have had a solution here.

Hi,

The black cover on the front of the mower is held on by couple of screws from underneath. You have to remove the cover which will give you access to where the cable connects to. Then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the end of the cable to disconnect it from its mounting hole. Now loosen the cable clamp, pull the cable downward to remove all the slack then push the cable jacket up 1/8" and secure with the cable clamp.