20 Most Recent Sony Cyber-shot DSC-H50 Digital Camera Questions & Answers

hi, a little care should be taken to replace the LCD screen from this model, first remove the cover of the tilting mechanism of the monitor then disconnect the jig connector,open the monitor cover take out the LCD, replace with a new one.

hi, this tilting type monitor is fixed on an hinges when you lift this monitor, can see a small lid with screw first you remove this lid then disconnect the strip, then tilt it up and unscrew the monitor cover remove it there you can remove the LCD, replace it.

Fungus in a lens is the end of the lens. It is living and eating the coating. The coating is essential for the characteristics of the lens. Without it, the lans will have more chromatic aberration, flairs and will not be as sharp. Although I have seen advice to remove it with acetone, please keep it dry (silica) and start saving for a replacement.

If there is fungi in the lens, you can't remove it without damaging the lens. Even on the outside. Fungi is eating the coating. The coating is correcting light, to make the image sharper, to avoid flairs or to correct aberration. Perhaps it is in some places for other reasons. If you try to remove the fungi, you will remove the coating or at least a part of it, giving extra blur or blurry spots. Just as a certified Sony repair centre what it will cost to repair the camera. But I think it will be cheaper to replace the camera. New cameras are better and cheaper than ever. Next camera, keep in in a dry place to avoid fungi. Eventually with cilia gel in he same package.

Does the switch not work at all? or if you switch on, you don't see anything on the display? Try pressing the display button several times, to see if that will change something (after the camera is ON.)

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include "E18 lens error", or "lens error, restart camera". Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.

The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many cameras, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.

A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.

Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.

The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:

Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.

Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.

Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.

Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.

Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in "no heat" setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).

Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.

Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.

Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

And you are still shooting in automatic mode? Sometimes we (unintended) switch over to manual mode or night scene. Then picture don't look what we expect. Please check your camera is still in automatic mode. If not, switch over. If you still have white pictures, something else (more serious) must be wrong.

Usually a camera only shuts down, when one of its sensors detects a dangerous situation. somewhere a voltage to high, or somewhere it is overheating. Or the lens is not moving free. With some camera's you can force a shut down, by only pressing the lens a little, or just touching the lens while zooming or focusing. Don't try this, because it can damage the lens system. If nothing off this all happened to your camera, perhaps you should ask a service centre. But please check yourself, when you are focusing or zooming, that you don't touch the lens barrel.

Opening a lens, is a job that not only needs special skills but also special tools and a lot of knowledge of optics. If you don't know the word collimator, don't even start opening the lens. Then you should know, the mould is thriving on the coating of one or more of the elements. Where the mould has eaten through, you can't change anything. Just accept the fact and ask what repair will cost and see what camera you can buy for that money.

Most of the time it is the battery. Did you charge the battery yourself? did the charger act normal? Did you check the contacts in the battery holder of the camera. The contacts should be clean and shiny. Did you put in the battery the correct way? plus to plus and minus to minus? Should be impossible to put it in, the worn way around, but I don't know how strong you are. Just a few suggestions.

Try some photo recovery software to rescue the files on your digital memory card, here are some you may rely on.
Photo Recovery Software (for Windows)
Mac Photo Recovery Software (for Mac OS X)

Be careful: Before your pictures are recovered, do not attempt to save more files to the card in case the original files(your pictures) are overwritten.

CCD in the lens assembly may be defective.check with a service center. We can get you the service manuals and spare parts