20 Most Recent Mitsubishi MSH09TW Air Conditioner Questions & Answers

Mitsubishi inverter timer flash

Mitsubishi cassete ac code E21 what's the problem

The Mitsubishi units have to be reset by turning off the indoor units by switching the remote or thermostat to off. Then turn off the breaker to the outside unit(s). After 30 seconds,turn on the breaker and then you can turn on the remote for cool. If no lights come on on the inside units, most likely you have blown a fuse soldered on the main PC board. At this point, call your technician. A goos tech will be able to wire in an in-line fuse holder so if it should happen again, you can easily replace the fuse. If you do see a light or two come on at the indoor unit but the outdoor unit does not start after 3 or 4 minutes, sounds like you will need to call a technician. Most likely you have a blown fuse on the main PC board of the outside unit. It is not an easy one to replace. Good Luck!

The answer is R410A. Refrigerant Types in a Central Air Conditioner There are 2 different types of air conditioning refrigerant currently used in residential cooling systems. R-22, commonly referred to a Freon and R410A, a blend considered to be more environmentally friendly, sometimes called Puron. R410A (sometimes known as Puron), is the industry's choice to replace R-22 in central air conditioning systems. It is less reactive with the environment while having the same home cooling characteristics of R-22. R410A is not interchangeable with R-22-you choose one or the other and your air cooling equipment is designed to operate with it. When you purchase a R-410A system, a new line set is included with your central air installation as well as a new evaporator coil. Our experience with R-410A has been excellent. New cooling systems have been dependable and efficient, as well as operating quieter! R-410A is the refrigerant of the future! Less reactive with the environment Replaces R-22 in the year 2020 Cannot be used with R-22 systems Quiet and dependable Freon, R22, heat pump refrigerant R-22 also known as Freon has been used for decades as the refrigerant in central air conditioning systems. However it has been linked to Ozone depletion and has therefore been banned from being manufactured after the year 2010. It's price will increase as the supply decreases. Good luck, Marty

It should run until it reaches the temp. setting on the thermostat. Do you have a make and model number so I can assist you?

you must specify for what reason why you need an photo transistor and remote?and also how about the unit`s light touch swithes,all are working?if no one on soft touch swith is functioning,something wrong in your system control circuit inside your unit.there are many reasons and trouble shooting to be considered about your remote and receiver

There could be many problems with the outside unit (Condenser Unit). First let's start with the simple things. Check if there is the 240Volts coming from the quick disconnect box usually mounted on the wall near the unit. If you are not familiar with electricity then I strongly recommend that you get a professional electrician or air condition technician. Once it is determined that there is the 240 volts then open the access panel on the condenser where the wiring goes into the unit. You will need a volt meter and check if that 240 Volts appears on the line side of the contactor. If so then go to the load side of the contactor. There should be no voltage there on the contacts because it has to be energized by the thermostat and the 24 Volt transformer. Once the contactor is energized there should then be the 240 Volts on the load side. If all of the voltages are present the outside unit should be working. If you have done all of this and the outside fan is working but the compressor is not working then you could have a bad run capacitor. If the compressor is running but the fan is not then you could have a bad start capacitor. You should also check for any corroded wiring including on the terminals of the compressor and contactor. Everything depends on troubleshooting and if your not familiar with any of this then I would have a qualified service technician take a look at it. I wish you good luck but just remember that you are dealing with dangerous electrical voltage and if your not familiar with troubleshooting then leave it to the pros. I hope that I have helped or at least given you some insight into what may be your problem/s. If so then if you would kindly post that I have helped I would appreciate it. Marty G, retired Electrical Engineer

Just so you know, you can use just about any condenser coil as long as it uses the same refrigerant as your original system does and if it will physically fit and has the capacity of the old one. However before you go out and buy something have you tried fixing the leak in your condenser coil? If it is made of copper then it is easy to solder with silver phosphorous and using a presto-lite torch. If you don't have one then you might try using map gas. As long as you can get 1,000 degrees or more it should work. Good luck Marty

Your A/C unit should be hermetically sealed and there should be no oil coming out. If there is a leak in your unit then the first thing you will notice is a hissing sound followed be a foam of oil coming out where that leak may be. The solution is to first find the leak and seal it, usually be soldering it with high temperture solder (Silver/Bronze) with a tourch that will go to at least 1000 degrees. Once it is sealed you will need to go to the production line coming ont of the compressor and open it up, usually be breaking it and then soldering on a copper line and then attaching a valve to the end of it. Once this is done you will need to have a vaccuum pump connected to the production line and draw a vaccuum as close to 30 degrees down. Once this is done you must let it sit for at least a half hour to make sure everything holds at the vaccuum level. If this works then you need to fill the unit with the appropert refridgerant and cappella oil if necessary and pinch off the production line and braze the end. Check for leaks and if none then your good to go.Good luck,Marty

a half hour is to much time!!, insuficient gaz installacion OR leak gaz installacion ,,

Instead of spraying vinegar, i would say spray wd-40 spray.That will keep the fan and its internal assembly clean and not let the fan movement get tight and rusted.It will not allow the parts to get tight and rusted.-------- But once you spray wd-40, you have to let it remain there for 30 minutes to 1 hour, then turn the unit on .The wd-40 spray takes time to show its effect.--------- The wd-40 spray is easily available at local walmart and homedepot stores or at appliance parts repairs store.---------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

The fact that nothing is coming on indicates that there is possibly a problem with your incomming power supply or wiring to and from the inside evaporator to the outside condenser. If all in good order, suggest you find someone you know who can operate a multimeter and check if there is voltage going to the control board inside the evaporator unit. If there is then almost certainly the control board would need replacement.