20 Most Recent General Electric GSS22JET Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website reliable-store that i used to buy them from, and they sold online it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

My guess is you probably have a loose screw or nut that is allowing something to vibrate when the condenser is running. Check the front cover on the bottom of the fridge see if that is loose. Hope this helps.

Hi, "but it is also really getting load when the fan? is running." Not sure what you mean by that? But regardless, it seems from what you have said, there is likely a small leak in the system. The symptoms you talk about do appear to indicate a low gas (refrigerant) situation. It doesn't matter how old the fridge is, most fridges have a leak or two.. It just depends on how bad they are, as to how long the fridge will run before you start to notice problems. Sadly it is likely there is no part you can replace to fix this. If it is a case of a gas leak, you would need special equipment to fix it. The only easy possibility might be the magnetic door seals. In some older fridges (and new ones), they can sometimes cause problems. I don't think there is an easy way to test them apart from careful inspection. You need to make sure the door/s close firmly and cleanly, without any gaps. Also take some temperatures (roughly by touch is ok) and compare them with another similar fridge. If you notice a huge difference, it's likely a low gas problem. Another thing, how long does the motor/compressor run for? It should cycle on and off "normally" depending on how often the doors(s) are open and closed. If the compressor runs for hours and never stops, it's likely low gas. Obviously you have checked the thermostat is set lower? Is there an airflow duct between fridge and freezer? That should be open. Is there any ice on the outside of the fridge? If so, means moisture in the lining (insulation) of the fridge. There are a number of tests you could do, without special equipment. Firstly, if you are not electrical aware, be careful. You can get killed playing behind and underneath equipment like this. The fridge is driven by a device called a compressor. That is a sealed metal cylinder or container that takes low pressure cool to cold gas from the fridge, after it has done the job of making you food cold or frozen. There will be a large(er) tube going into the compressor at the back of the fridge (called suction/return). That tube should be cool to cold. There should also be a smaller (hot to very hot) tube (called discharge) connected to the compressor. That's the high pressure gas going to the condenser to be cooled, so it can freeze your food. If the suction tube into the compressor is not cool to cold, the fridge needs a re-gas or there might be a line blocked. If the small tube or discharge tube is not hot to very hot, you also might have a problem. Fridges are very hard for non technicians or people without the right equipment, to fix. Nearly impossible. The most common (easy to fix) problems are door seal problems, thermostat problems, airflow problems. Anything to do with the sealed system side is nearly impossible to fix, unless you have the right equipment. It does sound like it's a low gas problem. One last test - is the exit line or exit side (evaporator), inside the fridge (assuming this is a two door fridge) very cold? The evaporator inside the fridge section should be quite cold. The evaporator is the cold plate (usually made of aluminum) that removes heat from your food. The inlet tube will go into one side of that plate and exit to the compressor on the other side. If that's not quite cold, it's another indication of low gas in your system. Maybe have a look at a basic fridge diagram via Google. Might help explain what I'm talking about. http://tech.akom.net/uploads/diagrams/refrigerator-maytag-rear-components.png http://censys.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/pump2.jpg http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/5673900/fridge_compressor.html#normal_img Lastly be safe. Be aware of possible faulty electrical wiring. If you are not aware or trained, playing with the back of fridges can be dangerous. Good luck.

Pull the refrigerator out and remove the back bottom panel. Also remove the kick plate in the front. The condenser coils are probably dirty (if you've never cleaned them, they are probably LAYERED with debris). Get everything cleaned out under there, be sure the condenser fan (in the back of the refrigerator) is working and see if that doesn't help. Dirty condenser coils can exhibit the exact same symptoms as more serious problems like a failing compressor.

Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils? The refrigerator side is usually where your defrost timer, discussed earlier is located. Also on this side is where your temperature control, or controls , are located, These controls are what are called thermostats, and have a direct line to the compressor. This means when the temperature has reached the desired setting the thermostat will kill power to the compressor in the same manner the terminating thermostat does with the defrost heater. Some models have a temperature control thermostat for the freezer and the refrigeratot, but some only for the refrigerator. The most noticeable sign of a thermostat being bad is the food in the refrigerator side will freeze, usually on any setting or the machine won't come on at all, including the fans. Problems are usually noticed on the refrigeratot side first. The last thing to discuss is The freezer and the refrigerator both are rising in temperature, but the fans are running, etc. Normally in cases like this a humming sound followed by click is heard or sometimes just the click. The humming sound is the compressor trying to start but failing and the click is the relay breaking contact. On newer machines, especially ones that fall under the whirlpool umbrella, the compressor relay, also called the start device has failed and needs to be replaced, but also the compressor itself could be bad. Well, thats the basics. I know it's long winded but I wanted to put something that you could print out and use as reference. Good luck. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

General Electric refrigerator model number PSS26NSTB SS is not cooling and the fan motor stop

Where is the defrost timer in my General Electric freezer model number PSS26NSTB SS

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NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
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http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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The condenser grill is how your unit gets rid of the heat that the compressor generates, so yes they do need cleaned every so often (depends on the environment that it is in). If you have animals, then more often than of clean environment. If you notice heat build up on different parts of the frame that is one indication that your condenser grill is not effective in getting rid of the heat.

The condenser grill is located at the bottom of your refrigerator and this diagram will give you an idea of exactly where it is and what it looks like. It is item 730 on the diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GSHF3KGXBCWW/0432/0165000/G0804239/00009?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=GSHF3KGXBCWW

Hope this helps.

Did you get your Ice maker fixed. I have the same problem... I freezer is around -20 and I think that is part of teh problem