Crosley CCW5294W Top Load Washer - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi pucke4488 - Typically this (not a do it yourself job) is something that you want a certified professional to install for you due to safety and liability reasons. They also usually warranty their labor just in case something else may turn out to be the root cause of your initial problem. Consider contacting your manufacturer for more details on who in your area can properly install this part.

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.

Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html

This indicates a faulty lid switch.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Absolutely! There is probably a blockage either in the drain filter and/or the drain motor/pump.

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

the most probable cause of that is the lid switch

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Crosley-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-CSWS16445WQ0/1502/0153200/W0907160/00003 hello jbick, here is a diagram that might help. Once you get the bolt out, you have to pull them up unless they're corroded onto the shaft. A well-know trick that I may do slightly different is to take 2 loops of rope and slip them underneath the agitator at the bottom. take a 2x4 and run it through the top of both loops and use the washer top as leverage to pull the agitator out. use a good towel or something to protect the finish on the washing machine. I hope this helps solve your problem. It's really aggravating sometimes to have things that are stuck, and to be struggling to remove it. If you have anymore questions, feel free to send a reply. I would love to help if I can, or find the answer for you.
Good Luck'
mike

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I do not have the decode for Lr either so sorry, absolutely no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway! (Could be a motor problem).
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Contact the vendor before doing anything else, especially if it is new as it will be under guarantee!!! Even if it is not new it should be under some sort of guarantee. Washing a blanket as a first try is possibly not the best thing to do- garments, sheets are not 'heavy' items and should let you get used to a 'new' machine ;-0)
Do you have a manual? If not you will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

Three possibilities here,

One, you've overloaded the washer with clothes, throwing the washer basket on tilt because of the extra weight and force against the agitator. Remove the wet clothes from the washer and try continuing the cycle.

Two, One of the elastic/spring arms that centers the basket inside the washer housing has broken and is allowing the basket to simply flop around. Disassemble the washer and inspect the basket supports.

Three, The center post that the washer basket sits on is going bad - The most common reason is that the bearings have gone bad. Disassemble the washer and replace the bearings at the base of the basket where it connects to the motor.

Hi

OE error means that the water is unable to drain completely and the bottom front access panel has to be taken apart and then the drain pump-filter assembly should be cleaned. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

This is symptomatic of a failing water control valve. Sorry but it needs replacing! Service call ;-0(
Good luck,
John C

I need the Complete Model# to help you out.

remove the control panel on the top front of the unit,there will be a plastic cable there to manually pull to unlock the door,on some models this cable may be accessable with the lower front panel removed below the front door

check the lid switch.

Here is a link to your timer AP3691045

Possible iff the belt is slipping onthepulley in the higher speed. so the first visuals you can get by having a glance below can give us more information than to speculate the extremes.
Look below the washer, and keep it poised for a good view.when the spin starts look for the noise, then stop the machine unplug and check, can be the belt, can be a spindle friction, a motor noise.. Some oiling can solve.

The part that spins back and forth is the agitator.

Step 1: Turn off the electricity to the washing machine at the main circuit breaker. Pull out the appliance and unplug it.

Step 2: Turn off the water supply valve to the washing machine, then disconnect any hoses from the washing machine and drain them into a bucket.

Step 3: Open up your washing machine and pull out the top of the agitator, leaving the actual agitator exposed. Locate the screws that connect the agitator to the rest of the washing machine. Using a screwdriver, tighten these screws firmly, making sure that they are not allowing the agitator to wiggle while in motion. Close the washing machine.

Step 4: Detach the back panel from the washing machine, exposing the belt that connects the agitator to the motor. In most cases it is the only belt accessible from the back panel.

Step 5: Look at the belt carefully. If there are signs of wear, splitting, or worn spots, buy a new washing machine belt and replace it. To do this, you must loosen the bracket that connects the motor to the washing machine. With the motor loosened, move it closer to the opposite pulley and remove the washing machine belt. Attach a new belt over the two pulleys, then stretch the belt to allow the motor to resume it's previous location. Tighten the bracket holding the washing machine motor.

Step 6: If the washing machine belt is in good condition, but has a lot of give in it, loosen the motor bracket slightly and move it further away from the opposite pulley. The ideal give to a washing machine belt is about ¾ inch, so don't over tighten the belt. Tighten the bracket to hold the motor into it's new location.