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GE Built-In 24" Double Electric Wall Oven Questions & Answers
I got a GE double wall oven and when I
turn the
Hi
F1 Error indicates a bad control board and the control board
(electronic control) should be replaced to solve this issue. Hope this
helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
Ge double wall oven, model
F1 touch pad / ERC test This simple test will help determine
whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is
defective when F1 error code is present.
Note: Some models incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single
assembly, in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC
(Clock).
Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or
making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
1. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power
off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power
to the range has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing
2. Gain access inside the control panel.
3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from
the ERC
4. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short
when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was
5. Turn the power back on.
6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually
accompanied by a beeping sound)
7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch pad.
I have a GE double
Hi
When the oven does not heat the issue is with the oven temp. sensor that is bad and you need to replace it. You can test the oven temp. sensor for 1100 ohms and replace if the voltmeter reads less than this. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel
BOUGHT A HOME IN UNION
The heating element in top unit may be loose or burned out. Push the element toward the back and see if it engages. If it is already engaged, you'll need to replace it. It is simple to remove it.Just give a firm tug and it should come right out. To replace with a new element, simply push it in firmly.
With the bottom unit, are controls set for bake? If they are set for "broil" you are using direct heat and it will cook foods more quickly.Also, is bottom unit a convection oven? If so, foods will cook in 1/4 to 1/2 the time for a conventional oven, so you'll have to adjust your temperature down about 25-50 degrees and shorten your cooking time.
WHAT DOES F1 ON BUILT IN ELECTRIC OVEN MEAN MODEL JKP13G0P4BG
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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I have an old but
To be honest, getting the over repaired would be prohibitive in cost, especially if you are cash strapped.
If I were in that situation, I'd simply pay someone else to clean the oven periodically. Have them use a low fume product, stay out of the kitchen while they clean and keep the room well ventilated during cleaning.
There is a F-3 code after the oven has been on for
Hi F3 indicates there is a sensor failure. The sensor is a metal probe that you can see inside the oven poking through from the back, it is about the size of a pencil or a little smaller.
Either the sensor or the wire from the sensor to the control board on top has gone bad, to check you will need an ohmmeter. It should read about 1080 ohms at room temperature.
I typically find the problem in the wire connections rather than the sensor itself, but this requires taking the oven out from its opening and taking the back off.
F7 CODE
F7
A =
Function
pad button stuck or
B = Bad clock
Unstick
button
or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F9
Program
w/
door circuit
Check
wiring
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