20 Most Recent GE Profile Spacemaker 1.8 Cu. Ft. Over-the-Range Microwave Questions & Answers

First check your electrical panel breaker before calling for service.

Hi anything is possible being that you even replaced two different brands of bulbs. I don't think the wiring harness is the problem but like I said anything could be the problem. Might I make a suggestion. Why not replace both the left and right side bulbs with LED bulbs with the same base configuration. Maybe that just might be able to solve your problem. I would like to know if it does. It also seems that a lot of others are having the exact problem. Good luck. Marty

Check the door switches. They are the number one cause of problems by far.

Either the wrong bulbs or just bad ones. The oven only gives it the 120 volts. It won't be the microwave oven. Just bad bulbs

Remove vent grille, then remove control panel. Check wire to cavity thermostat. Sometime wire bundle and small space causes poor terminal connections on this thermostat and will burn wire terminal. Cut off bad part of the wire, install a small terminal end, reconnect to thermostat. If thermostat is destroyed, also replace thermostat.

It is not difficult to change out the magnetron. It is however a possible hazard if not done correctly. I suggest having a qualified technician do it because of the high volyage potential and the care needed to install the magnetron correctly.

All microwaves above the stove top are 30" wide . The only difference is the top to bottom measurement . Some are 15 1/2" in the back and some are more .

It is because the light bulb may not be the problem to begin with. You should check the light bulb socket and related wiring and connectors for any cold solder joints. If you have a multimeter you can check to see if there is any AC voltage going to the socket. If you don't know whast your doing then I would suggest you get someone that does. Remember your dealing with 120 volts. good luck

I've seen this with most microwave ovens I've had. When the microwave emitter kicks in to cook, the unit uses much more power, providing less to the internal bulb, which dims a bit. Unless it's very dramatic, for example the bulb turning off or going almost out, it's normal behavior. If the bulb is going very dim or out, it could be that the circuit it's connected to isn't providing enough amperage to adequately run the oven. In the case of your microwave, it's rated at 15 amps, so should have adequate power on a standard household circuit by itself.

open the microwave. If there is a removable panel on the top, remove it and replace the lightbulb.

According to the GE manual it is a 120 v 20 watt halogen bulb, the GE product number is WB36X10213. That is the cooktop light/nightlight that would be on the stove hood. HTH!

Unplug and cease using this as you are exposing yourself to electro magnetic radiation. The door switch may have failed, you will need to disassemble the front panel to access the switch which is located within one of the holes that he door's hooks insert into and depresses to inform the control board the door is closed and is safe to operate.

You have blown a fuse. Check inside the oven chamber and look for missing powder paint or signs of arcing, if so there is a paint to repair microwaves for this issue or else just dispose of the microwave. If the inside is good remove all the screws and remove the cover. Replace the fuse. If the magnetron was making louder noises prior then replace the magnetron. Since the fuse went the giant capacitor is likely bad. While the cabinet is open make sure to look for burned wires, check the continuity of thermal cutoffs, and check the main circuit-board for burned traces or components. The relays in most electronics are known for arcing (spot welding) and staying in the wrong position. Tap them hard with the back end of a screwdriver. During all of this use safe electrical practices by having the power cord unplugged. The capacitor could still have a high charge on it so be careful.