Jeep 1998 Grand Cherokee Laredo - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Very simple answer, you can't. You have been watching too many old 'Dukes of Hazzard films where you cut a few wires, twist a few together and rub one wire against some metal and the car magically starts. Modern cars have alarms and engine immobilizers, computer controlled, so you need a mobile auto locksmith to make you a new chip key, and program it. When the vehicle was new, they gave you three keys. When you lose number 3 and then 2, you are supposed to get another, or this happens... no key.

Jeep Cherokee 1997 2001 Fuse Box Diagram This should have all the info you need.

Raymond Sanchez ... howdy howdy...! You question: Why IT is BLOWING...?? Long ago, well before the mezzanine era... primitive electricians determined that damage, in general... from all sources, could be limited if the designed a WEAK-SPOT into every circuit... and the FUSE was born. The real term FUSES "OPERATE" Because whatever (you know.... but chose not to share) circuit YOUR UNNAMED FUSE powers has a current draw that is MORE than the design of the circuit the FUSE is designed to protect. Some ill advised TROUBLE SHOOTERS might suggest you try a bigger fuse: VERY WRONG (unless you like fires & throwing money away (assuming a small fire)). My research... only reveals 2 actual circuits at 20 amps... then I got peeved (wondering why you would waste a volunteers time (who was freely trying to help you... by not disclosing any symptoms or, at the very least, what number FUSE you keep fumbling with...?)). Your choice. Your areas to further explore: 20a #7: Body Amp, Inst. Cluster, Body Control Module (BCM) 20a #8: Rear: Wiper Mtr, Lift-gate Pwr Glass, R Lamp, T-Hitch 20a #18: Spare Fuse (NOT USED) You can probably start check EVERY DEVICE along those BRANCH circuits with a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter)... hoping to get lucky but having some one available with extensive automotive and in depth electronics could have proven beneficial. But alas... every bit of life is a learning experience. Good luck with your approach. Below I have included some information on helpful tools... and support information. https://sites.google.com/site/thezjpage/fuse-pinout-1996-1998 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse Ohm law Wikipedia the free encyclopedia Amazon com Etekcity MSR C600 Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter with AC DC...

This is probably the most difficult question I've ever seen .. I'm in the UK and I also have a 1998 4 litre Jeep Grand Cherokee that I'm slowly sorting out... Okay. Your Jeep runs fine and doesn't misfire. That rules out spark plugs, distributor, ignition and leads. You have no check lights on (in the UK they're called 'engine management' lights..) though to be honest, before I tried fitting any replacement sensors of any sort, I would have somebody do a diagnostic check with an OBD - the hand held diagnostic machine. Sensors usually work or they don't work. It's seldom they have an 'intermittent fault'. It's difficult seeing a sensor being the problem, though I would have a diagnostic check run. I'm thinking 'fuel pump'. I once owned a VW Golf that had all the symptoms you describe. There was no sputtering - it would just 'die'. Sometimes it would start immediately, other times I had to spin the engine so much that the battery was almost dead before it fired. It was also a very intermittent fault .. it came and went for no apparent reason. You can disconnect the fuel line in the engine bay and see if the fuel pumps spurts fuel out - which it will do ... but a failing/faulty fuel pump is damn difficult to diagnose. When it works, it works ... and when it doesn't work you're usually driving ... On my Golf I'd tried / changed most things. It was out of desperation I changed the fuel pump .. and had no more trouble. Have a look on a Jeep forum - there's some damn good Jeepers out there.

Yes the alternator is the first thing I would test. It could also be a problem between the alternator and the battery.

Try this video:

You most likely have a bad door switch. While driving are there any interior dash lights notifying you of an open door? If this is the case you have a door switch that needs replaced (those are the buttons hidden in the folds of the door that get depressed when the door is closed). If this is not the case you could have a bad interior light swtich. Troubleshooting is required as there is a wide variety of issues that could cause this issue.

I had the same problem with a van I owned, it turned out to be my fuel pump was going bad...had giod pressure but would loose prime and shut down then after 10 min or so would start..One day just quit..had it replaced solved the problem...have it checked..good luck..

There is a short in your wires for your lights ..... good luck ... I had the same prob but I took out the fuse so now I have no dome light ....I hope you can find the short

You will need to remove the inside door panel and see why it dropped..some glass hangs up and cranking pulls the bottom rail off the glass or it may be just off the track..if it is pulled from the bottom track you will need to get some good glass adhesive.got mine from a car window repair shop...you will have to push the glass up to its up position and wedge or tape it there and then apply the adhesive to the track and slowly roll the track up to the glass..and push tight..let it in that position for the prescribed drying time..I suggest at least 12 hours..or until completely dry...if it is a broken track etc..The complete crank assembly will need to be replaced..My bet is glass out of the track..good luck..

Master cylinder sticking. Remove brake fluid reservoir, remove brake shoe set and with a G-Clamp, squeeze the cylinder pistons slowly and fully together. Keep an eye on the fluid level though as it may overflow. Once the pistons are squeezed together, wash the area down with brake fluid or paraffin. Let dry. Then spray cylinder area with WD40 (or equiv) and refit shoes. Refit brake drum and wheel. Get into vehicle and press brake pedal a few time until firm. Refit brake reservoir cap and test drive. It shouldn't bind now. If it does, then you may have a crushed brake pipe near that wheel. Possibly damaged by road debris etc.

No, it would have no effect on idle speed. There probably is a large vacuum leak, and that would leave the idle speed uncontrolled and racing.

Best thing to do is buy a service/repair manual NOT OWNERS MSNUAL your specific vehicle. I use Hanes or Chilton they have all the diagrams in the back of the book...any of the major auto supply stores have them for around $20-25 if you are not in a hurry EBAY usually has them fir half that...good luck..

Is it just the blower motor? Those have a resistor pack and are notorious for melting the connectors. If you have replaced the resistor module, did you also replace the associated pigtail? These get burnt and lose continuity. I'm just going to assume that all the fuses and relays check out as OK

that is your belt

The 98 Laredo has a traditional coil and cap and rotor- correct? If that is the case and if are asking if a coil pack will work, I don't think so, since coil packs are electronically controlled by an ignition control module which connected to the ECM.

you can have a replacement pin fabricated by a machinist, or find a surplus replacement from a surplus store.

Check the switch on the gearstick too. Remove the cover by lifting it or unscrewing it. Gear reverse switches do fail or work loose sometimes.

Tank vent pipe is blocked, causing pressure that can only vent via the filler neck. You will find that the pipe is caked in mud. Locate the pipe (it's like a snorkel on the tank near the filler neck) and insert a straightened paperclip into the hole to remove the mud. Alternatively, fill slower with the gun nozzle slightly at a twist in the filler neck.But you almost certainly have a blocked tank vent pipe.

Did you purge the box of air? Sounds like air in the lines. Look on YTube for 'purging an automatic transmission'.