Top 20 Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 3 Questions & Answers

There was a design change related to this switch. I had the same problem earlier today and figured it out by getting the schematics from searspartsdirect.com. There are two different schematics there (in English). The old schematic is labeled "DIAGRAM NO. 8104P688-60". The new one has five notes in the lower left (that don't help). The key is to split out the red wire coming back from the double burner element. The old way had it connected to "N" along with the RED source power. The new way has it connected to terminal "2" all by itself with the RED source power now connected to terminal "P2". But in addition, you have to add an extra jumper wire that should have come with your new switch that goes from "P1" to "S1". The other connections simply move from the old switch to the new where the locations can be seen on the schematics by referencing the wire colors (example: TAN wire moves from the old "3" to the new "4", etc.). If you are not 100% sure of what you are doing - you shouldn't try this. A wrong wire in the wrong place can short out 240V when you throw the breaker (boom!). Good luck. -- Mark.

For a stove, is that correct? Is the model number of the stove you have the JED8430 and you want to know how to install a fan switch in it, correct?

Please confirm before I help you out here... want to make sure I have it correct.

Just reply to my answer here and I will be right back with you.

Thanks,
Tim

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. Here is a video that will walk you thru testing an infinite switch. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

What you had was a slow short - practically the same thing as in a welder: big and loud flame, localized and the amperage isn't that great. As such it's very possible that the breaker wasn't tripped, especially if you had a big one, over 30Amps.
No, you shouldn't even try to repair it, that unit is dead as a dodo.

Hi,


The fuse is located behind the rear panel.You have to replace it
It is called thermal fuse.It will control the display and control of flow of electricity through the board.Yes you are correct blown fuse is the problem that make display will not to work.


It looks like the above picture


You can get the internal wiring diagram in the manual and the parts.part no 34
For more clarification have this:


post a comment for further assistance.
thank you for using fixya have a nice day:-)

Yes it isa safe to seal the cooktop to the counter with caulk.

I didn't have that problem, but I had a burned out switch and cracked cooktop, and found replacement parts at www.appliancepartspros.com. not advertising for them. but I bought they have the parts, it's reasonable cost, and they had it to me in 2 days.

You will have to replace the switch associated with the burner element with the problem.

I have two of the 71001494 fan switches new.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If you want a wiring diagram for your Jenn Air JED8430 then please check this link however, if you are looking for something else please post back for further assistance.




Thanks
Rylee

Hi,

Here is the part number for the switch 74009254

The top dimensions are 29 3/4" x 22" and the cut out needs to be 28 7/8" x 21 1/8" if the need the install manual you can get on the link below.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/8101P419-60.pdf

Good Luck and please Rate 4 thumbs for the free answer

Go back and recheck your wiring. It sounds like you have the burners wired in series together.

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023537.pdf
Please find above your service and repair manual, this is what the engineers use to troubleshoot and repair these units.

Tips:

1. When cleaning control knobs and control panels on cooktops and ranges, be careful that you don't scrub off the markings. Treat these components and their markings gently.

What You Need:
1)Manufacturer's instructions.2) Plastic scrubbing pad.3) Dish soap 4) Cleaning cloth 5)Abrasive cleaner (optional) 6)Smooth cooktop commercial cleaners
1. Clean an enamel surface:--Use a plastic scrubber and mild detergent or dish soap and water. Don't use abrasive items that can scratch your enamel. Enamel can stain, so it's important to wipe up spills right away. Be especially careful of acidic spills like vinegar, tomato products, lemon juice, and other citrus products.Pull off the knobs and clean them and the area around them with dish soap and water. Raise the cooktop to wipe up spills that may have accumulated beneath the cooktop surface.
2. Clean the coils:---Electric coils don't need to be cleaned because of their self-cleaning nature, but gas burners tend to accumulate layers of thick grease and spills that turn into burned on junk. You may need to soak the parts in hot water and dish soap or even scrub with a plastic scrubber. Occasionally only an abrasive cleaner will do the trick. Don't forget to wipe down the drip pans and bowls underneath the coils with a mild abrasive, or soak them to remove stubborn spills.

Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Wonder if this meets your requirements..hard to understand difference between 31" overall measurement and not cut-out.

http://www.jennair.com/assets/product/JED3430WS_Dimension%20Guide_EN.pdf

Though I am not sure if the down draft feature will fit your existing cabinet.

I think your installer has found

http://www.jennair.com/assets/product/CVEX4270B_Dimension%20Guide_EN.pdf
which is with metal element.

But you will need to be sure the cut-out size is consistent with the granite profile that you have.

The Jennair cooktops are also compatible to Maytag and Whirlpool cook tops - you may find a match.

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keeps on clicking...

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking

heatman101

In case anyone else encounters this problem here's what
worked for me. I had this happen last night and came here
searching for answers. It did not unloosen on it's own
after being left overnight. Finally this morning I came up
with something that worked for me. Shoot the lid all
around with a hairdryer and use a towel to keep seeing if
it has loosened up enough to move. After a few miuntes of
spraying it with the heat it stared sliding around and then
came up.

It's just normal wear and tear, you can use any type of cookware.

You can get the manuals on link below.

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/8111P463-60.pdf

Install

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/8101P419-60.pdf

I will let you know that the wires hrom your house are as is.

White wire = Neutral

back wire = hot/power

green wire = ground

uninsulated wire is also a ground

Now you should also have another black or red wire in the box if you took out a electrick unit.

If you took out a gas unit than the wires you see are just for a 110 plug for the igniters.

You need to have 220 for this unit.


You might need to have another wire added so you can use the cooktop.