Top 20 Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi,I have found them both ways....are there wires hanging out or is it ready to be direct wired... this is often the clue to whether the BX is included or not...if you have wires then there should be BX... if not wires then they are planning on it being direct wired by your electrician...heatman101

if you lift up on the whole unit you will see the screws that go all the way around the unit under the glass lip.

Low gas pressure, suspect blocked gas jet , cleaning would probably cure this, if in doubt contact your local gas safe engineer

I am having the same problem with similar model (all of the control knobs line up on the right side of the cooktop). I removed the controller that "popped" and then turned the breaker on -- it flashed in a different location (under the indicator light adjacent to the controller I removed). Just for additional fun, I turned on the breaker one more time and I got a flash under the controller at the opposite end of the controller panel. I am assuming that I have fried at least two controllers and an indicator light does anyone know what the source of the problem might be? Thanks!

It appears you simply have a bad switch. Try contacting Jenn-Air or looking them up on the web to find out if they have replacement parts available

hello after looking at your wiring diagram the only thing it can be is a blown breaker in your home. half of it works off 120v of the 240v circuit and the heating elements off the other 120v line. so you are only getting half the power to your unit. turn the breakers off and on see if maybe it just tripped.but its not the cooktop. hope this helps please dont forget to rate me thanks ken

Try going to Partselect.com to see if they have a replacement top for your stove. More than likely, they will. I purchase all my appliance parts from the site and they have yet to not have the parts I'm looking for.

It looks as if you need to remove the whole cook top to replace the glass top, incidently that is a 400 dollar item, so you have to take care. See: http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=2341162&SourceCode=5&ModelNum=jed8430#RepairStory

Yes, you can change just the glass. It is called the maintop assembly and usually starts at $275 and goes up. You will need to get the remaining 3 digits for your particular model in order to get the right glass. A good place to start looking would be: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/JED8430?pathTaken=modelSearch&prst=0&shdMod=JED8430

1. Turn off the power at the breaker box.
2. Then lift off the air grill.
3. Then remove the two screws at the front of the control switch panel (escutcheon)..
4. Then slide the control panel forward until it disengages, then lift up to expose the switch assembly and wiring. 5)- Then disconnect the switch wiring connector and remove the switch. ------------- For where the switch is located and its diagram.Please click on the link below:----- http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fM0610011-00002.png ----------- The part number 8 in the diagram is switch. ------------- Remove stove top from the counter. Remove the glass frame and glass from the top. Remove the broken switch. Replace with the new switch. Reassemble the unit and replace it in the counter top.

One problem is the switch only fits in the space one way because of the first burner light. When installed the only way the knob fits on the switch stem makes the dot on the knob backwards. So take care,when you remove the old switch , note down its placing position.That will help you when you refit new switch. ----------- For top disassembly, please click on the link below:--- http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Jenn-air-Parts/Cooktop-Parts/Model-JED8430ADW/1266/0121040/M0610011/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=JED8430ADW -------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

It could be either. The only way to properly check is by dismantling the cooktop and checking the circuit with a volt meter or test lamps.

Hi ranoye,

Most likely it is because one of the wires is at a dead short or is touching the same metal area which you are getting shocked through.

1) Power off the Burner
1) Ready an Multimeter, and set it to Continuity.
2) Place one probe where it shocks you, and the place the other on all the wires connected to the small burner.
4) When you find continuity on one of those wires (usually signaled by a "beep" on the multimeter), then you have found the culprit wire.
5) Search that specific wire for any burns, or areas where it is not totally isolated. For best results rewire that specific wire.

This should solve the problem.

Kind Regards

* If this helped, please accept the question :-)

If you are talking about the terminals of the oven element, the wire coming in is connected to the spade connector. The spade connector slides off the oven spade terminal.

Hello, Thank you for your post. Sounds like your having a problem with one of the burners on your cooktop. Yes, you can have this fixed. The burner that stays on high has a bad infinite switch. Once you change out that switch your cooktop will work as normal.

Happy Holidays!
Please rate me "4 thumbs" if this information was useful.

Take off the switch nobs and center grate, then carefuly lift the glass up/ start on one edge first. Have a towel or pillow to rest the glass once off it is around 250$ to replace glass!

The Problem is very
simple. The infinite switch part no 9 Inf switch kit ( Dual )

Part Number: AP4008679
made by WHIRLPOOL which control the element work like a thermostat when the
heating element reach the required temperature should go off and when cool down
to switch on. So the electrical contacts internally the switch has stuck on and
you need to replace the complete infinite switch. We have here below the link
where you can find the infinite switch and also all the other parts diagram of
your model and wiring diagrams which they will help you.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=28598013#d28598013

Sorry to hear your cook top is cracked. Unfortunately it cannot be properly sealed like a car window. Here is your part#74010843. This is a pretty pricey part and I suggest you use a professional on this repair who will warranty their work in case the glass is cracked again. Furthermore, there are a lot of pieces to take apart and fit back in.
Side note* Be sure to check you owners manual sometimes you can get factory service repaired covered more than just the first year. If the cooktop glass had a bubble or imperfection that could have caused your crack to begin with.
I wish you the very best of luck.
Please rate me if this is helpful to you.

sounds like your control card, went defective and blew the power...

Please rate/vote this response, thanks

I had the same problem... resetting the breaker fixed it for a while but it the problem always represented itself. Replacing the temperature sensor at the rear of the stove finally solved the problem. My problems started after doing a "self clean"

F7 Function key shorted or stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC).