20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi, W/D here.

The plenum is the box the blower assembly attaches to. The blower pulls the cooking vapors down the plenum (well) and discharges through the duct.
Best regards, W/D

you have two choices here. if you wish to repair the knob and you have both parts just get a tube of one minute epoxy at any hardware and "glue" the knob back together.

OR you can order the knobs you need at
http://www.jennair.com/content.jsp?name=local_service_repair

Attach it to white or any ground screw.

Hi there,

If there are no good instructions, I would suggest matching the markings on the switch next to each terminal.eg, match terminal marking on old switch as L1 to marking on new switch as L1. The markings are industry standard and should match from old switch to new switch.

Good Luck!!
Thanks

mostly the problem is the sensor inside the unit but so very expensive to replace,wait to damage the other then buy an new one compare to repair.

tnx gerbee

i would avoid cast iron or nickle pans as they are heavy and coarse. i would recomend a nice stainless set with aluminum bottoms

I suspect that the two black wires were attached to a wall switch or a wall times, along with the ground.

Check to see if you have a hot wire there. then temporarily wire the two black wires together and see if the fan comes on, i believe it will.

you can replace the cooktop but this might cost you about the same if you just went and bought a new one

those wires dont go to the down draft. those colors are to hook up the stove. do you have the instalation instructions?

You may have a cracked element, they expand when heated and cause a separation in the element. You really have to put a voltmeter on it to test it under load. If the voltage remains constant while the element is heating and cooling, then indeed you have a bad element.

If you don't have a voltmeter, or don't want to perform this test, buy a heating element and replace it, if you have the same problem, you'll have a spare element

There are 3 or 4 screws under the front lip; then the unit hinges upward. Turn off the power first! Once opened you can safaly remove the burners and replace toe top. hope this helps!

I can't imagine directing the downdraft vent back up to a traditional hood type system. Why bother, just don't use the downdraft or get a cooktop without a down draft and save money.

In granite, yes for any cooktop as long as someone can cut the correct size hole. Cooktops must be installed so the top is just about flush with the countertop. They all come with a template for cutting the right size hole in the countertop.

the unit doesnt have any internal fuses. you have a house fuse blown or circuit breaker that tripped. the fan switch can be found online or from your local parts house and make sure you get the clips to hold it to the mounting tabs.
next time you get ready to work on it, just make sure and turn off the power first as you will touch the metal terminals to the frame again.

Looked up switches and they sale for about $35 thru jenn air, seems steep for repair and if you know which ones are bad and know how to work on things then I would suggest saving some headache and money in this case. Simply paying attention to #1 safety <power off> #2 how it is assembled < screw placement,wires> savings would be big deal to most homes. If you're not interested in doing this then just remember it lasted four years without fail and new ones could take you that long again. The downside is there are two more and four used burners as well. I don't feel it is my place to tell you best answer for you because we all have different situations. I would keep it because I can simply fix it for a reasonable cost,but not all of us can do that.If you don't keep it sale it to used appliance place and at least get something out of it for the trouble.

You do need a 208/240 volt supply from your service panel. The green is ground, white is nuetral, and the red and black should measure 120 volts each to ground or 240/208 between each other. It is normal for most breaker panels to supply 208/240 between adjacent insulators. If you are only getting 1/2 of that then the circuit breaker may not be straddling the insulator bar but be 1/2 notch out and both breaker pins contacting the same 110 supply.

Hi,

A similar concern on a different model (8230):
To my knowledge, the:
green - ground
white - neutral
black - 120 to ground
red - 120 to ground but between red & black, it should be 240. A Jenn-Air JED8230 requires a 3-wire, 120/240 Volt, 60 Hz Outlet.

Pls consult/confirm with your local electrical utility/codes the availability/applicability of this power/wiring system or reference National Electrical Code, NFPA No. 70

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

grouch, kill the power to the cooktop. You are going to have to remove the mounting brackets from undernieth and push the cooktop up. After it's up from it's installation position remove the side and back screws holding the top to the botom. Remove the burner knobs and it should come apart. Sounds like you have a bad burner switch. Catriver..post back

Just fixed this problem and repaired the corner of the Ceran cooktop.

Disclaimer: These cooktops run on 220V and will kill you if you don't know how to work with electricity. If you're unsure, get some help.

The boiling water slopped out of your pot, and went over to your controls (knobs) and went down the shaft and into a component call "Infinity Switch". The water caused the switch internally to weld one of the two internal sets of contact points into a permanent position. The fix is to replace the
"Infinity Switch" that the boiling water spilled into. The Infinity switch is the component that the control knob slides on to.

In my cooktop one of the infinity switches failed and appears to damage the adjacent switch. Mine actually caught on fire and damaged the wiring and the connector. Hopefully you are better off. Since they were in such close proximity I replaced them both. For $20 you might consider the same. I replaced both to be safe and they were $21.47 each.

My cooktop has 4 elements 2 small, 1 large and 1 combined (small and large) surface. A large element was definitely damaged and possibly a small element. I ordered both. I mention this in case a multi-element was damaged on your cooktop.

You will need to contact either Jenn-Air or someone. Since you can't see an exploded parts list online, you'll have to use the schematic. It is in a plastic sleeve and it stuck to the side of the ventilator housing underneath the cooktop.

When you wire the new part in, make sure you have the wiring correct or when you turn it back on you will burn up the new part.

I hope this helps.

You can get a new cooktop surface from Maytag/Jennair for $229. It is a pain however to replace it. Where is the crack in your cooktop and does that crack pass directly through a heating element? If not, then you may be able to repair it. I broke the corner off mine, and then dropped the piece (now 5 pieces). I was able to bond them back together and you really can't tell it was ever broken. But, it takes some work.