20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Try going to Partselect.com to see if they have a replacement top for your stove. More than likely, they will. I purchase all my appliance parts from the site and they have yet to not have the parts I'm looking for.

It appears you simply have a bad switch. Try contacting Jenn-Air or looking them up on the web to find out if they have replacement parts available

Hi ranoye,

Most likely it is because one of the wires is at a dead short or is touching the same metal area which you are getting shocked through.

1) Power off the Burner
1) Ready an Multimeter, and set it to Continuity.
2) Place one probe where it shocks you, and the place the other on all the wires connected to the small burner.
4) When you find continuity on one of those wires (usually signaled by a "beep" on the multimeter), then you have found the culprit wire.
5) Search that specific wire for any burns, or areas where it is not totally isolated. For best results rewire that specific wire.

This should solve the problem.

Kind Regards

* If this helped, please accept the question :-)

Yes, you can change just the glass. It is called the maintop assembly and usually starts at $275 and goes up. You will need to get the remaining 3 digits for your particular model in order to get the right glass. A good place to start looking would be: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/JED8430?pathTaken=modelSearch&prst=0&shdMod=JED8430

It looks as if you need to remove the whole cook top to replace the glass top, incidently that is a 400 dollar item, so you have to take care. See: http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=2341162&SourceCode=5&ModelNum=jed8430#RepairStory

The reason why the switch is still red after it is turned off is to let you know the surface is still hot. When the surface cools down it will go off. It is a safety feature that is built in to the top.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer.

1. Turn off the power at the breaker box.
2. Then lift off the air grill.
3. Then remove the two screws at the front of the control switch panel (escutcheon)..
4. Then slide the control panel forward until it disengages, then lift up to expose the switch assembly and wiring. 5)- Then disconnect the switch wiring connector and remove the switch. ------------- For where the switch is located and its diagram.Please click on the link below:----- http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fM0610011-00002.png ----------- The part number 8 in the diagram is switch. ------------- Remove stove top from the counter. Remove the glass frame and glass from the top. Remove the broken switch. Replace with the new switch. Reassemble the unit and replace it in the counter top.

One problem is the switch only fits in the space one way because of the first burner light. When installed the only way the knob fits on the switch stem makes the dot on the knob backwards. So take care,when you remove the old switch , note down its placing position.That will help you when you refit new switch. ----------- For top disassembly, please click on the link below:--- http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Jenn-air-Parts/Cooktop-Parts/Model-JED8430ADW/1266/0121040/M0610011/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=JED8430ADW -------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

If you are talking about the terminals of the oven element, the wire coming in is connected to the spade connector. The spade connector slides off the oven spade terminal.

It could be either. The only way to properly check is by dismantling the cooktop and checking the circuit with a volt meter or test lamps.

The bottom front of the range has two little legs with hex bottoms. Lift or tilt back the range until you're able to slide a shim (I used a metal ruler) under one of the little legs. Then, unscrew the other leg until it meets the ground. Remove the shim and unscrew the remaining leg until it meets the ground. Check for level and repeat until you get it right. I just did this just 5 minutes ago and if I can do it anyone can.

The Problem is very
simple. The infinite switch part no 9 Inf switch kit ( Dual )

Part Number: AP4008679
made by WHIRLPOOL which control the element work like a thermostat when the
heating element reach the required temperature should go off and when cool down
to switch on. So the electrical contacts internally the switch has stuck on and
you need to replace the complete infinite switch. We have here below the link
where you can find the infinite switch and also all the other parts diagram of
your model and wiring diagrams which they will help you.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=28598013#d28598013

I had the same problem... resetting the breaker fixed it for a while but it the problem always represented itself. Replacing the temperature sensor at the rear of the stove finally solved the problem. My problems started after doing a "self clean"

Take off the switch nobs and center grate, then carefuly lift the glass up/ start on one edge first. Have a towel or pillow to rest the glass once off it is around 250$ to replace glass!

sounds like your control card, went defective and blew the power...

Please rate/vote this response, thanks

There was a design change related to this switch. I had the same problem earlier today and figured it out by getting the schematics from searspartsdirect.com. There are two different schematics there (in English). The old schematic is labeled "DIAGRAM NO. 8104P688-60". The new one has five notes in the lower left (that don't help). The key is to split out the red wire coming back from the double burner element. The old way had it connected to "N" along with the RED source power. The new way has it connected to terminal "2" all by itself with the RED source power now connected to terminal "P2". But in addition, you have to add an extra jumper wire that should have come with your new switch that goes from "P1" to "S1". The other connections simply move from the old switch to the new where the locations can be seen on the schematics by referencing the wire colors (example: TAN wire moves from the old "3" to the new "4", etc.). If you are not 100% sure of what you are doing - you shouldn't try this. A wrong wire in the wrong place can short out 240V when you throw the breaker (boom!). Good luck. -- Mark.