20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.You have to lift the unit up from the counter use some boards across the counter to support it and remove the screws from around the unit under the glass lip. On some units there are screws under the vent grille also. After removing the screws lift the whole top off.Thats all you have to do.
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Hi I have changed out the maytag and it takes a little time but it is easy to do , but costley, First of all turn off power or unplug unit, open the front of this unit and you will see to small screws top left and top right side, after removing the two screws then lift the top from the front, then all the wires will be visable to you, if you are not able to remember all the wires where there go then mark wires with masking tape or you can take a picture if you have a camara that you can use . like i said it is easy fix just take your time >

This means the oven lock is activated. The cook top touch panel is likely causing some problem.Try to press the child lock button and see if F1 goes off. Otherwise the control panel will need to be replaced.

Hello,

240 volts,8,300 watts would calculate to amp draw of 34.5 amps and thusly a 40 or 50 amp circuit is reccomended


GENE

Yes you can. Call Jenn Air ((877) 232-6771) and give them your model number (serial is helpful too). They sent my replacement glass within a week. I have a model JED8430ABD from 2000 and they had the top. Fit perfectly and took about an hour to replace.

To change it out, after unplugging the cooktop, I removed the metal tape connecting the external vent shaft to the blower. Then I just lifted the entire cooktop out up out of the countertop so I could access the screws on the sides of the cooktop (looking at the edges of the new cooktop glass helped me figure out which screws to remove around the edge). Then I removed the 2 screws in the vent area on top (1 black screw on each side). And that released the cooktop glass from the metal box that holds the burners. I then took the rubber rings out of the knob holes so I could put them in the new cooktop (I almost missed that...). Finally, I put the new cooktop glass on, put the screws back in, lowered the cooktop back into the counter, and retaped the blower to the vent shaft. Voila!

I really wouldn't be afraid of doing this yourself if you are handy at all. And it will save you a ton. Good luck.

PS The screws around the perimeter are hexigon shapped, so you can't just use a screwdriver. I found my Black & Decker electric screwdriver had that same shaped hole that it held the bit, so I just pulled out the bit and used the screwdriver that way. Worked like a charm.

We here the link for the knob of your model and also the parts diagram

Hello, Thank you for your post. Sounds like your having a problem with one of the burners on your cooktop. Yes, you can have this fixed. The burner that stays on high has a bad infinite switch. Once you change out that switch your cooktop will work as normal.

Happy Holidays!
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Hi,I have found them both ways....are there wires hanging out or is it ready to be direct wired... this is often the clue to whether the BX is included or not...if you have wires then there should be BX... if not wires then they are planning on it being direct wired by your electrician...heatman101

The burner switch for that element will need to be replaced to fix this type of problem.

To replace the switch, shut off the circuit breaker to the cook top and remove it from the counter. Remove the knob from the switch that you are replacing. Remove the burner box from the cook top surface. Remove the screws that secure the burner switch. Note the location of the wires connected to the original switch. Take a digital picture if necessary. Remove the wires and replace the switch. Make sure that the wires are connected properly. Reassemble and test the cook top.

This information should help you fix this problem yourself. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

I am having the same problem with similar model (all of the control knobs line up on the right side of the cooktop). I removed the controller that "popped" and then turned the breaker on -- it flashed in a different location (under the indicator light adjacent to the controller I removed). Just for additional fun, I turned on the breaker one more time and I got a flash under the controller at the opposite end of the controller panel. I am assuming that I have fried at least two controllers and an indicator light does anyone know what the source of the problem might be? Thanks!

Low gas pressure, suspect blocked gas jet , cleaning would probably cure this, if in doubt contact your local gas safe engineer

hello after looking at your wiring diagram the only thing it can be is a blown breaker in your home. half of it works off 120v of the 240v circuit and the heating elements off the other 120v line. so you are only getting half the power to your unit. turn the breakers off and on see if maybe it just tripped.but its not the cooktop. hope this helps please dont forget to rate me thanks ken

if you lift up on the whole unit you will see the screws that go all the way around the unit under the glass lip.