20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JFC2087HRS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

i would say you have a bad jazz board,do this open the right hand side door of the fridge,you'll see on the touch pad the up and down arrows,hold the light switch in and press the down key three times,let go of the light switch press the down button again and i think it says like s and p can't remember but press the down one more time and you should see 4 and 4 or whatever settings you had if you see this close the door,open the freezer, by doing what i told you you manually put it into defrost,if you hear the compressor running the board is bad part WPW10503278 and i have to tell you i've changed quite a few of these boards.also if the strip between the doors are hot check you coil on the bottom,usually when this happens the condenser coil is blocked with dust or the condenser fan isn't blowing,if you ever find the fan not blowing you can get a house fan and blow it onto the compressor and coil this will keep it cool until you change out the fan motor and you won't loose any food but that's another day.your coil might just need to be cleaned or the jazz board could be causing this because the compressor is running longer than it should.if you unplug the fridge,melt out all the ice off of the coil as best you can but the more the better you'll be able to use the fridge like normal for like 10 to 12 days then the coil will freeze up again so order the board melt out the ice with a hair dryer and you should be fine,if you need a hand programming the new board let me know i would tell you how to do it but i don't know if people are getting my answers nobody writes back,so open the freezer door,open the right side door,hold the light switch in,push the down button three times,let go of the light switch and push the down pad again and one more time you should see settings again,close the door,if compressor is running the board is bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUoGLZYv... one more thing if you remove the bottom kick plate there should be a tech sheet either folded up and it's in the kick plate or it's in a plastic pouch taped up to the floor check right side but could be on left too and clean the coil while you're down there

Some of these units have a ten year warranty on the sealed system.Check the jennair website with your serial number.

If your ice maker is making full size cubes then it should one of 2 problems.
The water valve on the bottom back of the machine is a dual valve. One side feeds the ice maker, the other side feeds the water supply.
1. The dual water valve. is going bad. The water side is malfunctioning.
The dual valve must be replaced.
2. Your model should have filters for the water dispenser, and need replaced.
Try changing the filters first.

More than likely the ice maker has gone out. The part nunber for that is going to be D7824706Q If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

There will be several items to check that can get your ice maker back to operational. First you will need to see if the ice maker is refilling after each batch. Us a light or feel to see if ice maker is empty from the last cycle. If no water is in the ice slots use a cup and pour tap water into the empty ice slots to about the top of the ice maker. Allow water to freeze and if the cube's dump into ice bin. If then water does not refill the ice maker I believe the dual water control valve=> 67005154 Dual Water Control Valve is at fault.

Click here=>

Whirlpool's Ice Maker Harvest Cycle most of the information you are looking for is on the page above. I will let you begin by going to that link and saving the Whirlpool Ice Maker Troubleshooting PDF. Once you read over that material and are able to use an ohm meter we will move to the test points behind the ice makers front cover. Ice Maker have about a five year average life cycle and many times it is more cost effective if you replace the=> D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly or click here=> D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly In the clip below you basically have all the solutions in this one You-Tube Movie=> Ice Maker Repair I believe this is one of the better Whirlpool Ice Maker related video's and covers most all of what you need answered. I will be here to answer any questions. Checking the ice maker mold heater by testing the L and H test points (should show about 72 ohms of resistance) Testing the Ice Maker Timer L and M test points should show around 4400 ohms of resistance Motor You also can answer from the ice maker by testing just what condition your water control valve coil windings are by placing the test probes in the N and V test points where you should get between 150 and 350 ohms of resistance. I will be here to answer any questions you may have, If this solution is helpful please rate my solution, Thanks Sea Breeze

You may have a defrost problem check the freezer inside at the back and see if there is frost build up if so you need to check the DTS and element to see if they are good.Let me know and I will guide you through it.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hi rlh2004,

There are several factors why a refrigerator tops making ice. We will look on the most common factors and give you some troubleshooting that you can do to fix the issue.Before doing any checking or repair please unplug the refrigerator, remember your safety.

1. Check the shut-off arm - An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place. To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.

2. Check the water supply line - The water supply line connects to a supply valve usually found under the kitchen sink or behind the freezer. If the valve is not turned to a position which allows for enough pressure, the water may not fill the ice mold.
Check that the water valve is opened to allow enough water to fill the ice mold. You can open the valve all the way but it is better if you open it just enough to provide the adequate pressure level.
You can also inspect the water supply line for dents or pinching that might restrict the flow of water to the icemaker.

3. Check the freezer temperature - The ideal temperature for the freezer is about 5 degrees (F). The refrigerator should be kept at about 36 degrees (F). The temperature can be adjusted using the controls found inside the freezer or refrigerator.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using Fixya.

Hello,

If refrigerator is not cooling, it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator RepairRefrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator CompressorRefrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start RelayRefrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Coldheatman101