20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGR4634J Gas Dryer Questions & Answers

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

You're a good detective! Gas dryers have an ignition panel (what you saw glowing bright orange) that heats until it reaches a certain temperature. This temperature will cause the gas from the pilot to ignite and the dryer will run, staying at a constant temperature and thereby drying your clothes. It sounds as it your ignition panel needs to be replaced. It is a relatively simple process if you are comfortable making repairs. If you aren't, I suggest calling a repair professional. We did this a num ber of years ago. The repair service was reasonably priced and our dryer worked for another 6 years!
Good luck. If this works, please return to Fixya and rate my advice!

Hi impenick...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101
''''''''''''

Assuming the LP conversion was done correctly,you need to replace the gas valve coils.

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat

yes you can, this website should help:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

any ce brand will work

Good day,
Remove the lint screen. There are 2 screws under it. Remove the screws.
With a screw driver, pop up the lid one side at a time. It's held down with clips.
Rotate the lid away from you. You will see a screw on the inside top on each side of the front panel. Remove the screws and wires to the door switch.
Pull the front toward you a little and lift the whole front off the bottom clips. Set it aside.
On the bottom left you will see the gas valve and heat tube.
The ignitor is located away from you extending into the heat tube.
It is held on with a wire plug, and one screw. If your replacing the ignitor do not touch the silicone carbide section of the ignitor with your fingers. Oil from you skin will ruin it.

If your problem is no heat, I would remove the back cover first.
Look at the center bottom. You will see a skinny white thermal fuse. it is held on with one screw and is the most common cause for no heat on your model.
It looks like this, and should check out at zero ohms with an ohm meter.

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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

one of the heat thermostats are bad.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...
There are a number of things that can cause your dryer not to start...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

heatman101

This free video will walk you thru troubleshooting the problem. Could be a few different things Igniter,coils,heat sensor,thermal fuse, thermostat

Your belt has broken, Should be able to hear motor running and should sound smoother than usual.

Hi and welcome to Fixya,

There are a few possibilites that can cause your symptoms. After reading your description of the problem it almost sounds as if the gas burner valve coil is weak or there is a major kink in your gas supply somewere that is quite some distance from your dryer. After some thought your flame sensor is the most likely culprit.

There are other things that can cause this also. The first being a restriction of airflow through the dryer caused by lint buildup.

Areas to check are
1. Around the bottom of the lint filter
2. The dryer vent tubing from the dryer outlet to the outside wall
3. The dryer vent flapper on the outside wall

As for gas burners see this link para 2-3 and 2-3a
http://www.appliancerepair.net/apnet/frameset?http://www.appliancerepair.net/apnet/dryer/ch02.htm

Paragraph 2.3a will assis you in your troubleshooting efforts.

You did not list make or model number (complete) so I can't give you the exact replacement flame sensor for you dryer at this time. If you go to any appliance parts supply center they will most likely have a replacement in stock.

If you need more asssitance just reply / repost here. I wil be glad to see this through to successful completion.

dryer run but dont heat

The very noisy part is a little bit odd...

Usually the igniter glows, the flame sensor detects the glow and sends power to the valve coils, which open the gas valve. There are some differences in that setup depending on the brand, but that is basically it.

It could be that the igniter isn't glowing hot enough (doubtful) or that the flame sensor (the rectangle thing on the side of the burner tube) isn't working (also unlikely, but still possible) or that the gas coils aren't working. Gas coils are the most common problem to go wrong on gas dryers, but when they go, they usually work at first, and then start to fail.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?