20 Most Recent Whirlpool LSR5132PQ Top Load Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

whirlpool has a drive coupling under unit between the transmission and the motor shaft... should be able to lift unit up and tilt and look under unit usually white in color and has a black rubber bushing between this is designed to break in the event of a overload or binding.... if that is not it check your lid switch as it is designed to stop unit if lid is raised and if it has failed it will not allow motor or spin to operate either..... good luck to you

its the drive coupling between the motor and transmission,you need to remove and lay back the control panel,then under there are 2 brass colored clips that snap out,then pull the outer cover toward you and in here you need to remove 2 clips off the pump and set aside,then 2 hex head screws and 2 more clips and pull out motor toward you,then the drive coupler is there and you will see the teeth will be broken off,this is your clicking sound

the timer motor that advances the timer to change the cycles is not running,they are a small high impedance motor and burn out,you need to just buy a whole new timer rather than try to replace this small motor

Your drain hose is to far down in the stand pipe or your stand pipe is to low, your stand pipe should be roughly the same height as the top of your washer if it is pull your hose out of the drain pipe it has probably just went down to far, it only need to be about 8 inches in the pipe, it is siphoning the water out, that is what your problem is.

Needs a clutch replacement.

The lid switch is here:To check it flip up the controls and unplug it's quick connectThe connect has 3 wires, a green ground and two other wires, those two other wires go to the switch. Here is a video that show how to replace that lid switch:
I have a manual and some more videos HERE

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Here is a video to show you how to remove the tub.

Hello when.... go to searspartsdirect.com

Enter your model number and you will get a set of parts diagrams showing exactly where every part is located. Joe

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check the lid switch most likely this is your problem.... they put the lid switch on there so when you raise the lid it shuts the motor down and stops machine...it is a safety device... if the unit is working on everything else you most likely have a bad lid switch...you can bypass to confirm prior to buying a new one.... good luck.... whirlpool models you have to remove 2 screws in console and flip consle over ...you will see a molex plug usually on right side under console with a 3 prong plug... take a jumper and jump out the side coming from the console normally 2 outside terminals. plug unit back in and see if it works....

make sure all four struts are in there sockets

most likely you have a broken motor coupling part number 285753A and it's around 20 dollars.unplug the washer.on the top console there are two phillips screws that have to be removed,on whirlpool washers they have them in the rear one on each side,remove them and flip the console up.with a screw driver pop the two metal clips,put the screw driver in the hole and on top of the clip and push back to the wall,the clip will pop out,next you'll see a wire connector to the left of the right clip,unplug that,this is the lid switch wires.open the lid,grab the frame and lift up and pull back,remove the frame of the washer,on the bottom you'll see the pump,with a screw driver remove the clips and slide the pump off the shaft.then remove the two screws and pop the two clips off the motor and pull out the motor.on the back of the motor you'll see the coupling.most likely the three arms will be broke off,the other side of the coupling will be on the transmission.remove that part and the rubber piece.next tap on the new coupling on the motor shaft the other part on the tranny shaft.slide the rubber piece on the tranny part of the coupling and then line up the motor coupling so it fits into the rubber and both pieces are interlocked in the rubber.before you do this check the rubber pieces on the corners of the motor,if any are missing pull it off the frame and slide it back on the motor or you'll never get it back together,slide the motor back on and put the washer back together.the coupling breaks from overloading the washer.happy new year

Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.


If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform yourself. I hope this information is helpful.

YOU MAY BE MISSING SOME SUSPENSION SPRINGS.

Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.Replace the water inlet valve with this part.

Here is a link to a video to show you how to get to the pump. Here is a link to the tub to pump hose. Here is a link to the pump to back panel hose.

The FixYa Team

Replace the timer.

You have a fouled water inlet valve. There is no reliable way to clean it. Replace the valve.

its a bad level pressure switch timer has nothing to do with this

The quick plug to the lid switch has 3 wires. A green wire that is connected to the frame for ground and two hot wires Jump them 2 hot wires and she will run. MORE HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

HI!!
If lid switch does not work, the machine will never go into the drain or spin cycle. Replace the lid switch and you'll be fine. You can get the switch at any appliance parts store or on this site for $33.50 http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/547391?modelNumber=6ALSR7244JQ1


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