Whirlpool LAB2700ML Pedestal Drawer for Duet Washers & Dryers - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

could be the motor......... cheers

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle.

Press & hold down the 'end of cycle' signal button at right end of panel, till the control light goes off. Hold down for about 3 - 5 seconds. This is the child lock feature, do it again and the machine locks.& rate me pl................4 thumbs-up!

Yes, the cycling thermostat controls the element.

Hi stevewillis1,

Please look at this Service Manual for your machine: LINK
Chapter 5 - Sub page 5 explains that there is an additional resistance test to perform, after the Ohm test.

Please follow the instructions contained within.

Hope this helps

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If this solution helped you, please accept it

It appears your fuse has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Error E1 in your Whirlpool Duet Dryer indicates Thermistor Failure which flashes when the thermistor is open (>50k ohms) or has gone bad. TO resolve this issue the thermistor should be replaced. Also check the Thermal fuse which is located on the blower wheel cover. Please accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.

Thanks

Rylee

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

your cold side on water valve may need the screen cleaned.if that doesnt help then you will need to replace your water valve.take hose off cold water side of water valve and you will see the screen.it may have alot of blockage.

how does the drawer come out of the base

needs a new heating ellement

I'm not familiar with the specifics of this machine, but the bezel and Console Electronics (the subassembly clipped to the bezel that holds the circuit boards and buttons) on our Whirlpool GEW9200LW1 is a poor fit, and pressure on the bezel itself can activate the End of Cycle button, and subsequently lock the controls.

usually the heater or the lint sensor is to blame. you just need to ohm them out.I can get either one for you. David

Hi
You will find that the heating element or the thermostat are defective

Could be that the belt has broken and triped the belt safty switch. If you reach into the dryer and rotate the drum in a clock wise rotation and it moves extreamly freely. It is probably the belt.

I would check behind the dryer to see if the vent is crushed. Everytime you lean against the dryer there is a chance of crushing the elbo on the back of the dryer restriction air flow. Very common problem.

Check to see if the door switch is working. Some times the switch activator located inside the door is broken off. Or the switch does not click when you push on it.

Hey John
It sounds like your on the right track. One more thing to check is the safty switch on the motor. Terminal 1 and 2 close when the motor is running completing the curcuit to the heating curcuit.
I hope this helps.

Check that the breaker is fully on by cycling it all the way off, then back on again.
If problem persists, may be an open heating coil.

not an easy task---try to remove the drawer. there is a bolt going upwards in each corner (inside)