20 Most Recent Whirlpool LTE5243D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

drum turns but there is no heat.

take the front cover off of the washer section you will be able to see the lid switch on the right side un plug or turn off the power pushe the lock arm over you will need to replace the lid switch

replace lid switch

check the breaker first then check the heater to see if thats open,(Broken heater)

time to clean the lint filter and the exhaust pipe (the large, white flexible hose) which could be filled w/ lint

good luck

Usually a bearing/gearbox problem going bad will create a howling grinding noise. You'll definitely hear it in the spin cycle. These are an expensive fix and require special technician tools to disassemble the unit. The gearbox is a sealed unit. Most manufacturers warranty their unit's gearbox for 5 years regardless the warranty you got when you purchased the unit, so check into this before you void your warranty. (The manufacturer requires their factory authorized service technicians to do the replacement) All in all if you do the work yourself it'll be approx $250 for the parts and gearbox transmission. To have the work done is usually much more.

Try lifting up the back end of the machine so both legs come completely off the ground. They will try to auto level themselves when you put it back down. Most of your adjustment should be done with the front legs though.

replace water valve and fill hoses

is it filling and draining at the same time ? if so take the drain house out of the stand pipe (wall) make sure it is oinly in 5-6 inches if it is in too far it will create a syphone where it will fill and drain at the same time and never advace the cycle. you should always hear water going down the drain if you can't it is down too far. let me know how it goes

Use a putty knife and insert between the top lid and the front panel and push the clips back. Pull the front panel forward.
The pump will be in front of you, attached to the motor.

Not sure about the dryer but there are a couple things that could cause the no draining issue.
You could have a leak or block in your pressure hose. Basically there is a thin, clear tube inside the cabin that attaches to the tub on the lower right side. If this has a leak or is clogged then the washer has problems filling and draining.
The other possible problem is a broken lid switch. This is an easy fix. Basically, the mechanical mechanism that goes down when you close the lid does not work properly so when it comes time to drain, the washer actually thinks the lid is open.
For both of these you would need to open cabin. I posted instructions for that here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t1885690-whirpool_twin_washer_dryer_lte5243dq3

check the pressure hose. a kinked clogged or disconnected hose continues to fill. the pressure switch senses the air pressure in the hose.awaiting your further comments. thank you.

Shorten the connecting vent. Clean the through the wall vent.Clean the lint channel in the dryer.

Replace the lid switch on the washer.

at you home circui breaker...then the wall plug... then the timer switch ...then the motor and the door swich.

Bad timer

You could have a wore out dryer belt wich could cause the drum to feel lose, Also you could try checking the glides underneath the front of the drum to make sure they did'nt slip out of position. This helps the drum turn with little or no friction.

hey thats crazy.anyway first things first.water passes through the fill valve.in the valve[ where the black fill hoses attach to your washer] are screens that stop minerals from going into the valve itsself and blocking up the valve internaly.i know its going tobe tough[trust me i've done 100s]but its how your complaint is solved 99 out of 100 times.you turn off the water remove the cold hose and clean the cold fill screen.also while the hose is off flush it into a bucket or the washer tub[wont hurt a thing]make sure you put the screen back into the valve.so next time valve wont get harmed.if the screen is clean and you have water at the cold facuet at the washer.you could have a bad valve.that would be a voltage check.we wont go there now.if you still need help you can email me thru fixya.hope this helps. God bless ,tom

If you are talking about the upper part of the agitator, this is a common problem with well used machines.

Little plastic dogs that grab the serrated sides of the agitator wear down the grabbers. Pull of the cap on top of the agitator and then the cup at the bottom of a well inside.. You will see a bolt head, remove it and the upper part of the agitator comes off.

The dogs are about $5 at Sears or other appliance parts store. It is tricky to replace them, so you need an appliance person to describe how to do it, and print you a copy of the parts break down of the agitator for reference, so an appliance store that sells parts is the better place to go. Sears won't help you with it.

If you are not all that handy, I would not recommend you do this. If you don't understand the technique, or able to intuitively figure mechanical things out for yourself, you could be pulling out you hair. If the person who explains how to replace these dogs doesn't mention doing it with the agitator up-side down, then they don't know how to do it either. Good luck, and you will get a great sense of accomplishment if you succeed. If you break one or both of two little plastic tabs that snap the lower part of the upper agitator to the lower part of the agitator, don't worry about it. They just keep things together and the dogs from falling out when you tip the agitator upright again. You can still hold it together with both hands in order to slip in back on the agitator spindle in the washer and bolt in back on without these convenience tabs.

The water level pressure system is blocked