The pins with plastic over the are no concern at all they were used for shipping when the machine was delivered it had a yellow strap under the lid that had to be pulled to release the tub and free it up so itdidnt bounce around and break something during shipment while being bounced around in the back of the semi truck that delivered it . Now about the small spring that was found on the left side of the frame to the tub plate, to replace it the cabinet must be removed, to remove the cabinet remove the phillips screws from the back of the control panel(where the timer,water level switch ect are) pivot the contol panel up and to the rear and look and find (2) brass colored clips the roughly look ess(s) shaped one will on either side of the cabinet and attach to the rear plate,place a flatblade into the front portion of where those clips fit into the cabinet and pry them up and out,then disconnect the plug to the lid switch(it will be near the right side clip),open the lid place your hand in the front of cabinet under the lid and pull the cabinet off(whilei didnt search for it look on youtube for a video of how to remove the cabinet from whirlpool DIRECT DRIVE WASHER
Capacitor - Washer motor start capacitor. Specs: 189-227MFD, 125VAC, 60HZ.
Look for signs of leakage or separation. Using an insulated screwdriver discharge the cap. You should get a spark. No spark bad cap. If the cap is fine then remove the timer connection block and look for corrosion or it could simply be loose. The likelyhood it being the lidswitch is slim because this model allows for wash with the lid open. So if that liswitch was broken the washer would still wash. if the cap was out the washer motor won't go.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSM-2qCC3Po here's a video on some of the things you can check. sometimes it's easier to see it. many whirlpool manafacturers use a small, inexpensive motor coupling. it's plastic and rubber and is mounted to shaft of motor on one side, transmission on the other. over time, coupler wears out and fails. some of the things in the video can help isolate the problem. hope you find this helpful thanks, mike
this has a kenmore type lid switch, they often break and although seem ok will not allow the machine to spin out. I would replace the lid switch. (you have to remove the two screws at the corners of the control panel and it hinges back to remove the plug to the lid switch.) Make sure unit is unplugged first. There is also a 5/16 grounding screw under the top of the machine which is in a difficult location. It also attaches to the lid switch and must be removed. The plastic channel holding the wiring clips onto a lip in the sheetmetal. It takes a bit of patience to get this switch out and skinny arms. by reaching between the drum and the top of the machine. Hope this helps.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(absolutely no promises but try this first!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!) It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
The dor switch is not closing. Open the door and there will be a littel rectangular spot above the drum use a pencil or something like and mash it down if it starts the piece on the door that's suppose to push it down i s probably broke
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Check the lid switch it wont drain or spin if its bad. Here are directions to open the unit...
1. UNPLUG THE WASHER 2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws from each side of the rear corners of the console. NOTE: On some latest models there are no screws (big saving for Whirlpool). Instead there is a console clip on each side of the console which should be carefully released by inserting a putty knife under the console from the front on each side. 3. Pull the console forward and up to remove the tabs on the bottom of the end caps, out of the holes in the top. 4. Lift the console up and lay it on its back. 5. Unplug the harness connector for the lid switch. 6. Insert a flat screwdriver into the front edge of the clip (located on both sides), and pry back. Remove both clips from the holes in the cabinet and slide down the other end of the clips and out the slot in the rear panel. 7. Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening. Be sure when tilting the cabinet that the back edge clears the vacuum break. 8. Tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling on the lid and opening of the cabinet. This releases the back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the back of the base 9. Carefully pull the cabinet away from the base of the washer and set it aside.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
If your washing machine will not fill, only hot or cold will fill or is slow tofill then read these tips. I have covered many of the things that can happen inthese tips...
The
screeching noise can be because of a broken motor coupler or rotor assembly
going bad and so the unit will make sounds. You have to take it apart to check
what the exact part responsible for this sound is. You can also view this
video, though it is for coupler replacement but will give you an idea on how it's
done:
Please
get back to me if you have any other questions.
Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. These directions will get you there. You are right about looking at the pump. I would say it is your problem.
1) Unplug the washer. Remove the 2 Phillips screws that retain the console. (On some machines, these are hidden under console end caps that must be pried off. On newer models, they're on the back of the console). Rotate the console fwd, then up and back; it will hang back out of the way if the washer's away from the wall far enough.
2) Unplug the white lid switch plug and pry up the 2 large clips that hold the cabinet to the washer back panel.
3) Tilt the entire cabinet forward and it'll unhook from the retainers on the base. Lift the cabinet off and set aside (not as heavy as it sounds!) You'll see the pump right in front, very easy to access.
Sounds like a bad Gearcase, they are usually warranted for five years. Call your dealer if it is not over five years old, otherwise it is an expensive repair.
If it is stopping randomly it could be a faulty door switch. If it always stops in the same place on the cycle try to see if you can figure what it is trying to do next, or example if it cant get through a rinse because it wants to drain the water out but the pump, filter or hose is blocked or if it stops when it wants to heat the water then the heater is faulty. There are examples only. I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions. I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply. I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions. I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.
The problem is one of several things. Normally if the machine won't spin out the problem is the lid switch. (They may seem ok but are often broken). Second is that the timer point has become burnt and pulled off the timer switch itself.
If the washer agitates but doesn't spin, then replace the lid switch. Otherwise I would first check the connector to the motor (Underneath the machine) for obvious burn spot on the connector (the high speed pin) and if that is ok then the timer has had a contact point fail and needs replacement. This machine is direct drive so inspect the coupler when checking the connector. Hope this helps.
