20 Most Recent Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

whirlpool , simpson , westinghouse are all in the same manufacture house you problem sounds like the tub suspension rod air dampers have failed replace these rods and the tub is more stable at the bottom end where the rods go through the mounts is a plastic cylinder that has a moving piston and spring inside ' the tip section of the plastic breaks free and then there is no air dampening effect you will have to remove the top of the machine to get to the upper ends to replace the rods cosy for 4 rods is around $90.00 AUD and can be got from the service agent spares

If it is a Calypso, abandon it immediately... it is amazing you still have it. One of the worst designs, ever. Whirlpool Washing Machine Drain Pump 285990 No Longer Available

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Mi lavadora prenden las 2 luces primera y ?ltima lava un minuto se para y centrifuga

Ca - Average Current peak - happens if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 amps at the motor windings. This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector, or motor controller. Overloading the unit may cause this problem. Try washing smaller loads and see if the problem goes away. If it recurs when you wash bigger loads, decrease the size AND watch to see if you have to continue to decrease the size to keep the error from happening. If that were occurring, it could well be a sign of the electrical problems noted, requiring service. CA Cl Average current limit Or Instantaneous current limit If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either CA for average current limit trip or Cl for instantaneous current limit trip. Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 amps at the motor windings. Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 amps instantly at the motor windings. This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector, or motor controller. Over-loading the unit may cause this problem. I think CA means [C]ontrol [A]verage Error. It means you need to reset the control panel, and retry again.

hello.........
“LD” stands for “long drain,” meaning it took an excessively long time for water to drain out of the washer. Common causes for this are kinked drain hose or clothing, like panties or socks, caught in the pump suction hose. Why, I’ve even heard of bra wires coming loose and getting stuck in that hose, collecting all sorts of gookus and pinching off the flow of water to the pump. Can you imagine? Yea verily, as surely as the Sacred Suds doth eternally pass my lips, the “LD” error code springs forth from such anomalies.

check for clogs in the hoses for one, if it is beeping, the overfill switch may have been tripped. Try unplugging it to reset or press STOP/Cancel

also check valves, let me know what you find and let me know if anything else is showing up wrong

most washing machines have a lint trap that is easy to find. I don't know this model, but open the lid and find where the recirculating water falls out from a hose or plastic tray above the wash tub. somewhere below this point, in the path of the falling water, is a lint trap. remove it and clean it

might want to check the screens in the hose ends.

Are you saying its rinsing pouring water in then draining over and over? If so Washer fills with water then drains: The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch) If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design. If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more. Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning. Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine. Try raising the hose and see what happens. Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit. Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation. Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS. And in some modern washers that come with THERMISTORS: One symptom of a washing machine that thinks it's overheating and thus fills and drains at same time ( possibly because of a faulty thermistor) is if it's filling with cold water and pumping out at the same time. This is covered in this articleWashing machine fills and drains at same timealthough the same symptom can be caused by other faults. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

This could be a case of bad bearings and if it is you will need a service company to fix.

I had a similar issue, had a bad bearing. A quite frequent failure int this device. Only way to diagnose is dismounting it These are not properly your model but see some videos how to do it:; might help to understand the job How to Replace Washing Machine Bearings Repair HE3 Washing Machine Bearing Noise ApplianceRepairVBlog 2 Replacing the rear bearing on Whirlpool Duet... Duet Whirlpool Sport Changing Bearings

I just had the same problem. I borrowed my neighbors wet vac. The hose of the wet vac fit right over the end of the drain hose and I sucked out all the remaining water. My hope was that if the hose was clogged that it would clear it out. It seems that it worked. I put the drain hose back in the drain and turned on the extended spin cycle. It was working, so I put the water logged clothes back in the washer on the extended spin cycle and it took the water out. I am now in the process of washing another load to see if it really fixed the problem. I hope this helps.

bad motor coupler between motor and transmission/ clutch assembly, is the belt loose or worn? it may be slipping

SUSPECT SOME KIND OF OBSTRUCTION IN PUMP OR HOSES,. CHECK MANUALLY AND SEE IF U CAN TURN PROPELLER BY HAND

If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either CA for average current limit trip or Cl for instantaneous current limit trip. Before replace, I would first check the power supply, wiring and electronic. Dado