20 Most Recent Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You'll have to be a little more specific please. What kind of trap are you thinking of/referring to? Not aware of any type of "trap " on this model. Are you talking about some sort of lint trap? And what problem/s are you having with the washer (like what's it doing or not doing)?

probably a problem wash engage solenoid underneath or broken drive belt call an technician in for a proper diagnosis and a quote

replace water inlet valve that your hoses hook to.

You have to unsckrew two screws on the front of the panel and lift it up.

cut the supply from tap if on.
Next is turn off the machine .
there might be leakage problem check for that
or call service center

It sounds like you may have a clogged screen in your water valve. Turn the water off going to the washer and remove one hose at a time from the back of the washer and look inside the body of the water valve, you should see a small metal screen inside the valve, and they should be clear of any debris. If you see any debris built up on the screen, carefully remove the screen, I usually use a small flat blade screwdriver, and then use a small brush, like an old toothbrush, and scrub it under a stream of water in your sink until it is clear of any debris. Carefully put the screen back in and put your hose back on and then turn your water back on and you should be good to go. If you do not have any debris on the screens, then you could have a bad water valve and that would need to be replaced. Hope this helps!

The selector is the problem source.

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.

you are missing a couple letters in model number,here is a link t all the parts for particular washer, Search eReplacementParts com you can use this cleaner, here is the hose,

check the switch for load size,make sure it is on high and see if that works.

There should be a rectangular flap on the top panel at the rear right of your dryer. the lint filter is in a chute if there is just a hole here then the filter is missing.

You used to be able to get a brush on product that was used to fix chips in baths and appliances.. I can't remember what it was called, Check around some appliance shops perhaps they might remember?

Three main causes for water not draining are listed below:

1. Clogged drain tube - exhaust or relief tube the hose empties into (does not apply if hose empties into a sink)
2. Clogged drain hose - occasionally, debris from the wash will find it's way into the hose and clog, backing water up into the machine
3. Clogged drain pump - like the drain hose, debris gets jammed into the pump. It may take a while for the pump to accumulate enough debris before it clogs. Disconnecting the hose under the washer will occasionally leave enough room to dig out any clogs in the pump. If not, the pump may need to be removed to clear the obstruction.
   

if no sound check door switch, if motor runs but doesnt engage transmission check plastic gear between motor and transmission

I turn off the cold water during the fill up, and then turn it back on after it has filled. I hate this washer too because of that.

a load of Jeans or pants is hardest on washing machines , you probably broke the belt for the aggitator