20 Most Recent Whirlpool GHW9400 Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers


When the machine starts to wash water passes into the detergent dispenser and carries the detergent into the drum, if the detergent outlet is blocked, or resticted, this will cause the water to leak out of the dispenser.

Check the dispenser to see if an accumulated crust of powder is clogging the outlet holes, most dispensers are removable for cleaning, check your machine instructions for details.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Dec 13, 2010


you are able to get a manual at a site called WEBCRAWLERS.COM. You may also look at a site called WWW PRONTO.COM. i hope this helps you with your problem.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 24, 2010


If you have water coming out of the detergent drawer, then i would suspect a clogged drain hose at the back of the drawer. If you take the lid off , (disconnect from mains ) at back of drawer small hoses take the soap powder to the drum. these can block with soap powder, ( gently push some wire or flex down pipe) dont pierce the pipe , be gentle. had this problem myself.
pete

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 17, 2010


Hi

Error code FH appears when No water is detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip is not detected. If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.

Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. If there is no water entering the unit then make sure that the inlet valves are working fine. You may need to check the continuity at the inlet valves. If the valves are fine then check whether inlet water hose, it may be plugged. Also check for inlet water screen at the valve. However, if the water is entering into the washer then the Drain pump might not be working. Also inspect the Pressure Switch hose whether it is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch. Also check hoses for leak and inspect the flow meter. Hope this helps...

Daniel

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 12, 2010


Check your spin speed....If that is set to the faster speeds then....

Maybe it is not draining completely the pump screen may be partially clogged up. It may spin but not at full speed unless it drains completely.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Nov 02, 2010


The problem is cold solder joints on the circuit board. When the board was made not enough solder flowed into the larger solder points. The circuit board will need to be removed and the relay and spade connector joints will need to be touched up. If you can make the repair that's great, otherwise take the board and this explanation to a good electronics repair store and they should be able to help you out. Be cautious about OEM replacement boards, they were made on the same line as the board you have now.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 29, 2010


Remove the front valance below the door (three screws at bottom of machine) then reach up by the door lock and there will be a plastic tab hanging down, that's the manual door release, just pull it down.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 29, 2010


The F11 code often time comes with the FdL code, and the problem is in the CCU at the top of the machine. The connectors are weak but the true problem is the cold solder joints on the CCU. For access first unplug the machine then remove the three screws at the top, back of the machine. Slide the top back then up and the CCU will be in a plastic case at the top back of the machine. If you remove the circuit board the solder joints you want to touch-up are at the relays (5 of them) and the spade connectors at the edge of the board. The plastic enclosure is of poor quality also so if you break a few clips it's not your fault.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 29, 2010


If your getting an FdL or F11 (and possibly others) code the problem is more than likely the CCU. The CCU is a circuit board at the inside top back of the machine. The board has quality issues in that it is prone to cold solder joints at the spot where the relays and the spade connectors for external connections meet the circuit board. The repair is to remove the board and touch-up those solder joints.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 28, 2010


If your machine is a Duet model or it's relative, first unplug the machine then remove the lower valance under the door (three screws on the botttom of the machine) reach up by the door lock and you'll find a plastic tab hanging down, that's the manual release for the door lock. Wile you have the valance off look inside the machine and pull out the technician sheets that are stuck on the inside wall of the machine, you may need them later.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 28, 2010


Press and hold the end of cycle button for 15 seconds this should clear it, if not try this link
Control locked

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 06, 2010


It appears your vibration damper has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 30, 2010


It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question^^^^

Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 30, 2010


One hour service plus $40 part.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 30, 2010


"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

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Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 29, 2010


The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



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Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 28, 2010


1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


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Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 28, 2010


Hi- As you've likely assumed, that is the design, to prevent flooding out the door. It is probably a controller issue. If you can hear clicking when you try to start it it is probably the switch itself. No easy fix (and the controllers aren't cheap) best to get someone out to look at it.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 23, 2010


"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

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Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 21, 2010

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