Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
if you pull out the vegetable drawer, you will notice a vent on the left side in the back. get some tape ( I use aluminum tape ) and cover the bottom half of the vent, that will help keep your vegetables from freezing. that should solve your problem. Joe
Had the identical symptoms with my Whirlpool Gold GS6SHEXNB00 side-by-side refrigerator. Had a technician come on site, indicated it was the "circuit board/ timer" (Whirlpool part # 1394052). Board is accessible from behind fridge (lower left side in a white plastic housing to left of compressor).
Swapped the board out (noticed a scorched circuit on the old circuit board). Lightbulbs now work, temperature readouts also good to go.
Boris, we are sorry to hear that your Refrigerator is not cooling. We are not technicians, we do not have technical training, or technicians here in customer service. We can offer troubleshooting. Unfortunately, we do not have the provisions to assist you with detailed technical advice, provide repair manuals, tell you how to take it apart, or advise on which parts need to be changed to repair the unit. We do not offer repair assistance in customer service. If you are unable to resolve an issue on your own, we can only recommend service. If you would like for us to schedule service for you, can you please email us your address, phone number, the model and serial number, the website you were contacted on, Fixya, your review ID, and date of purchase to Whirlpool_Digital@whirlpool.com.
This can be caused by lots of faults first inspect the evaporator in the back of the freezer for ice build up if this is the case the defrost system has a fault, if not the unit that opens between the wall of the freezer and the fridge may be faulty check for the grills opening and closing
George Andraws, We would like to inquire further about your post with you. Please respond back to this email address Whirlpool_Reviews@Whirlpool.com with your name, user id (George Andraws), phone number, street address, zip code, reviewer name, model & serial number, and date of purchase on the appliance.