20 Most Recent Bosch Nexxt 100 Series WFMC1001UC Front Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

a few things to try... the water fill pipe that feeds the machine, check the tap at the end to make sure its on full, if it is then turn water off and unscrew pipe from rear of machine and see if connection on machine is blocked or clogged. then usually located at front of machine at the bottom, unscrew the filter to see if its blocked with small change ( usual suspect ) and try.

Leaking inlet water valve

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post, "wont drain or spin mode" this is usually associated with a plugged drain or pump. These are the steps I'd suggest you take to move forward...


**Unplug the washer from the wall or turn off the breaker before attempting any repairs**

Get some towels and if possible a wet/dry vac. If the machine drained, it won't be too bad. If your machine is stuck full of water, that sucks...hopefully you won't get too wet. ( maybe you`re lucky enough to be close to a floor drain )

1. Locate the round door on the front of the machine (about 6" in diameter, lower right corner)
2. Find a drill bit or small screwdriver that fits in the hole in the round door.

3. Insert the bit into the hole in the door. It will push in a tab, it doesn't take much force. Rotate the hole (clockwise) to 6'oclock and it should come free. (the edges are very sharp so be careful...I usually cover the edges with electrical or duct tape or wear welders gloves).

4. Once the door is out of the way you'll be greeted by a 3-4" plastic cap with wings so you can unscrew it by hand or with the aid of pliers.



( you should also see a ring with a string attached, if you pull this the door should unlatch, but getting the water out first is usually a good plan )

THIS RELEASES THE DOOR LATCH IF PULLED

There is a small collector lip at the bottom of the cap, that is where you can hold the wet/dry vac to catch the water. Unscrew slowly so you don't get flooded, until it is unscrewed all the way out

5. Now pull out the trap and visually inspect the inside of the pump as well as the filter/trap.

Hopefully you'll find the item/debris that initiated your post here.


.




6. After removing any debris or obstruction`s re-install the button trap/lint filter and plug the washer in to power or reset the breaker and give it a test.

7. Run a load and watch for leaks. Leave the pump access door off until you are sure you screwed the cap in tight and there are no leaks.

Let me know if you require further assistance and if not and this solves your problem, please rate the solution I provided accordingly.

Thank you for coming to "FixYa" and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

it could be your heater is not working or your thermostat try putting it on a cold wash to see if it goes through cycle it could also be a water vavle not working

no matter which make / model of washer you have you should clear the filter regularly; i do mine every 2 weeks , just in case....i learned this the hard way when the washer wouldnt finish cycle. there may be a bit of water in the system so be prepared for an amount of water

I have experienced the same thing a number of times. To solve, open the door, then turn the knob, and push the start button on and off, and push the delayed start button (3, 6, 12 hour). Then close the door, and retry. This routine seems to reset the system.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

It does sound as if the motor requires replacement. It is not uncommon to find that the brushes are worn sufficiently for them to not make perfect contact with the commutator.
Now, a word or two of advice from this old hand- it might be suggested that just the brushes on the motor want changing; experience (of others) suggests that they may only last months rather than many years UNLESS the motor itself is refurbished. Refurbishment includes skimming the commutator on which the brushes run. Without skimming the brushes do not sit cleanly on the commutator (like the worn ones!), often causing excessive sparking and excessive wear on BOTH. Alternately a new motor! I changed the motor on our 19+ year-old Bosch at a cost of GBP250 ;-0(
The choice of course is entirely up to you- but do not forget that it is not an uncommon fault, especially if the washer is not exactly new. Others I have given this advice to have chosen new brushes and I don't blame them!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Have yall cleaned the filter? If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi hometownrock,

The washing machine may have a problem draining the water, if it cannot drain the water, then the cycle will not progress to Spin. You may have a foreign object in the Drain Pump Filter, this must be checked.

Please follow my below Tip on how to do this:

ACCESSING, DRAINING & CLEANING THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER...

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If this solution helped you, please rate it

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry to say this and please do not take it the wrong way but mold comes about just from the use of a washer, any washer. It is not the sort of thing which triggers recalls.

It's source is similar to bad odours which can be caused by the plumbing u-bend or the fact that there is 'foul' water being left in the drum or no washes at 90 degree+ (to kill bacteria).
Leaving the door slightly open after a wash (providing that it is safe to do so) can help as can running proprietary de-calc programs on a regular basis to keep all of the waterways free running.

So- I would suggest checking the plumbing u-bend for trouble first, then following the notes on checking and cleaning the drain filter and the drain pump to ensure there is nothing 'obnoxious' hanging around the two of them! Finally run the occasional 90+ wash to kill bacteria.

Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If these have assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

There is a product specifically for this issue, called washing machine cleaner. It is different from laundry detergent. You need to run the cleaner through monthly, and your issue should resolve.
Newer machines allow client to drain the water, attempting to address this issue, but I think the cleaner is required, or you do not get the mildew smell resolved.
Doc

Hi

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Check for any blockages, in the drain pipe. If that doesn't help you might have a bad pump

Also if the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.

If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion. Thank you for contacting fixya.com

espares.com

The door may not be locking when you start it.

Hi mwilczewsk,

I believe your drain pump filter is just clogged. The drain pump is trying to pump the water out before the Spin cycle, but can't. Usually this is caused by a foreign object that is obstructing the impeller. See my tip on how to access, drain & clean the Drain Pump Filter:

ACCESS, DRAIN & CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER

After this, the Spin cycle will run, after the drainage procedure. If it does not, then you may need to replace the Drain Motor. Which is a easy task.

Kind Regards :-)

* If this solution helped you, please rate it

This appears to be a problem with the door lock. Disconnect power then remove the spring securing the door gasket to the outer lip of the door opening. Peel the door gasket off near the door lock/switch assembly then reach around back of door lock/switch assembly and push onto back of lock plate directly behind the latch until it clicks.



Also check the wire harness connections to the door lock/switch assembly and make sure they are all snug fit. Replace the door lock/switch assembly if it doesn't reset.

You don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or information. But accepting the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I hope you don't mind me saying so but often the softener dispensing siphon tube gets missed when cleaning the dispenser 'cos it's difficult to see!----------->
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C