20 Most Recent LG WM2487H Front Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Might be a problem with a sensor, could to solve the problem by doing the following: 1. Press the Power button
2. Manually rotate the hopper 4 times clockwise and 4 times counter-clockwise.
3. Press the power button and run the machine normally.

If this dont work, the RPS sensor is on the rear of the washing machine, the error code LE is very common on these washing machines, the sensor needs to be replaced 99% of the time.

Depending on the selected program and which cycle is currently running, the PCB will tell the motor which speed to run at and which direction to turn. The Hall Effect sensor on the main circuit board is fed operational feedback from the motor. If there is any difference between what the motor should be doing and what it is actually doing - the appliance will stop operating and display an "LE" error.

Hope this helps.

The LE is caused by over sudsing OR clothing trapped between the tubs. The LE: hall sensor shorted/destroyed from sudslock or clothes between tub. Correct the issue and party on.

LG errors:
IE: Water level (246) was not reached in 8 minutes
UE: Imbalance: Load too, small too large
OE: Drain problem took longer than 10 minutes to drain
FE: Overflow issue drain pump running to comp
PE: pressure sensor (sensor out)
dE: door error. open door. switch is out
LE (with a a slash in the
middle of L. Upside down F) Thermistor out
CE: Over amping Too much soap wrong soap
LE: hall sensor shorted/destroyed from sudslock
bE: Ball sensor loose connection/out of order
EE: eeprom out test mode only
PF: power failure momentary interuption of shocktricity

LG service manuals and repair notes.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If you mean that the tub fills slowly, check that your supply faucet is fully open, Check if there is a screen in the supply line, these can become blocked due to scale deposits from the mains. If there is no screen check that the inlet solenoid valve has not got blocked.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor. The bit about checking the motor is near the end ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C

All you do is open the small door at the bottom of the front panel it is maybe 6-8 inches long and turn the filter counter clock wise to undo it, then pull it out.

Hi

Unplug the LG front load washer power cord from the electrical outlet. Turn off the water supply valves on the wall where the supply lines come into the house. Move the LG washer away from the wall so that you can work behind the washer.Place a bucket behind the washer and disconnect the two water supply hoses from the rear of the unit. Place the hose ends into the bucket. Remove the seven screws that secure the back cover of the control console with a Phillips-head screwdriver.

Push the control console forward so the face of the console rests on the top panel. Disconnect the wire connectors to the components inside the console. To make reassembly quicker, label each of the wires with masking tape and mark their location on the masking tape with a pencil. The connectors will come off by pulling them with your fingers. Move the control console away from the washer.Open the dispenser lid on the top left of the LG washer. Remove the four screws securing the dispenser to the top panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Push down on the dispenser and then lift the dispenser out of the top panel.

Slide a putty knife between the top and front panel 3 inches from the left front corner. Grab the dispenser hole with your free hand and pull up on the top section while depressing the retaining clip with the putty knife. Pull the top panel away from the washer.Locate the two screws on the top edge of the front panel and remove the screws with the Phillips-head screwdriver. Open the filter cover on the lower portion of the front panel and remove the screw from the filter cover with the Phillips-head screwdriver. Place a flathead screwdriver between both sides of the filter covers and pull the filter cover out of the front panel.

Open the washer door and pry the boot retaining spring off the door seal boot with a flathead screwdriver. Close the washer door.Tilt the top of the front panel toward you and locate the door switch connector toward the inside bottom of the door. Press the locking tabs on the door switch connector with your fingers and pull the connector off the door switch.Lift the front panel away from the washer.

Also check the bellow link if it helps:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_5651102_replace-front-load-washing-machine.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my guidance notes for checking both the drain filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my guidance notes for checking both the drain filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

When is this leak happening? During what part of the program?
Open the bottom front lower door. This is where the filter is located...the filter is attached to the drain pump.
While this is open see if you can see where the leak is coming from.

Unscrew the four screws that hold on the back panel.You will need a light to see inside of the unit. See if you can locate the leak from there.

Use two people to spot check...one in the front and one in the back.

You should be able to see where the laek is.

Please post results.

Keith

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on what you've described, there are a few possible scenarios that will cause this.

1) It could be either the shipping bolts are still in place, shown below

2) the water hoses are backwards ( it's critical for proper operation to make sure hot goes to hot and cold to cold )

3) or even you're using too much detergent (or the wrong type of detergent), you must use "HE" only in these frontload machines

4) the leveling legs/feet aren't secured proper or are uneven...

...otherwise it doesn't spin the items out very well either due to too much vibration sensed to maximize spin.

Make sure the shipping bolts are out first, i.e.




Level properly, i.e.




And use only detergent with this label, but not much is necessary.

**especially if your laundry has been washed in a top load prior to now since the items will likely still contain soap from the old washing...maybe pre-wash all your items before placing them in a actual wash cycle with detergent for the first time**

i.e.



Let me know what you find and I'll try to help you move forward from here.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

The pump is on the lower left of the front

tE is a thermister error. It is a temperature sensor at the bottom front of the washer. tE can also be caused by a heater error. Some models have a seperate thermister, some incorporate it with the heater. It is very difficult to replace without taking the front off the machine.

Hello,

This is a very common issue on these units, you an fix it yourself! The link below provides a video that explains how to clean the drain pump its the most common issue on this unit and it can be completed in several minutes.

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2010/11/02/washer-wont-drain/

Good luck with your repair!


http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Washer first!
Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

The other possibilty for the source of the smells is the u-bend into which the washer drain goes. Either its own 'u-tube' or maybe it shares a sink's?

Dryer now-
Does that have a clear filter? I don't know your particular model but if it is like ours it may have a double heating element, one for 'low' and both for 'high'. If so it could be that the 'high' element has failed and everything is being dried on 'low'.

Hope this assists you with both and good luck!
John C

The LG error code OE simply means "the pump is blocked". Presumably the water isn't being emptied properly. As with all error codes it is possible that there is a cause other than the exact description in the error code explanation but basically this error means as far as the washing machine is concerned it thinks the water isn't pumping out. A pump, or filter blockage is the most common cause but it could be caused by other faults such as a faulty pump, or even a blockage in the drain hose or somewhere else in the system etc.


LG themselves have some information on this error code..

http://lgknowledgebase.com/kb/index.php?View=entry&EntryID=6273

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

This is normal.
All LG washers use a siphon system to dispense soap, bleach and fabric softner.
Some times water will remain in the cups depending on the cycle used.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France @ 21:02 Sun evening.

Although I don't know your particular machine I answered a similar problem a few days ago so will give you the same advice/guidance! I am presuming that the bleach, powder and conditioner trays are adjacent to one another.

It could simply be that the dispenser is blocked- possibly by a mix of powder and bleach and/or conditioner. I would immediately suggest you remove the whole dispenser by pulling it nearly out then either 1) pressing down on the lip at the top middle rear or 2) releasing the catch underneath the tray or 3) lifting the tray upwards to clear the catch- whichever suits your particular machine.
I do know that the conditioner/softener part is likely to have a tube or something similar down which the conditioner can flush/siphon when water is fed into it. The reason that it is not simply an open drawer, like the powder chute, is that it would 'run out' as soon as it is poured in of course. If this tube is blocked it can cause you sort of problem.

Hope this assists,

John C

IE means imbalance error//balance load//check tub see if any itams stuck in or around drum......