Top 20 Irwin SDS-Plus Hammer Drill Bit 6in.L, 3/8" dia., ModelNo. 322024 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

then u go to workshop.

open its brush and c what happen with brushes.

try http://powertool.manualsonline.com/support/dayton/drill/

First thing is to try a non conductive "switch cleaner"
easily available at a store like screwfix or toolstation.
They come in an aerosol type can,much like wd*0.
Due to it being non-conductive, having power to the drill makes no difference.

If that is not an option, monetary wise, then!
First of all,remove the battery or power source, use your or your pals WD*0 and power the fluid into the switch via the straw, but do not operate the drill or even attempt to attach the battery/power for at least 6-7 mins.
If these 2 attempts do not work you need a new switch,I have never had to replace a switch on a drill in over 20 years.
one of these methods has always worked.
Cheers
Crazydick

suspect that the pinion or crown wheel has lost teeth for the drilling action make sure that the drill/ hammer selection is fully in position

WorkForce brand is one I haven't before heard of and the name suggests it is a generic label-engineered own brand model that are usually imported with minimal or zero spares support. They tend to be sold cheaply and if they fail during the warranty you either get a replacement if they are still available or you get a refund, however, if they last the warranty out the store reckons you have had value for your money and you should throw it away and buy a replacement. In the unlikely event replacement batteries are available it is usually cheaper to leave them in the store and buy a complete new kit. It is possible to recondition cordless tool batteries yourself - the cells are available from various outlets and there are companies dotted around that would do the work for you, but prohibitive cost is again a major problem and is best suited to serious professional gear and those who really love their cordless drills.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Master-Rechargable-Cordless-Battery/

I would pull the armature out of the drill and check the copper pick ups and the motor brushes. If you have a bench drill press, put the shaft drive end of the armature in the chuck and with some fine wet and dry paper and something to hold it flat, reface the copper contacts until they look like they're shiny and smooth (you will need to debride the debris trapped between the contacts as they cause dead shorts). Do you best not to damage the contacts. Don't attempt to reface the brushes - they are so brittle they will break but make sure the tensioners that hold them in their housings aren't broken or jammed. Second is pulling down the gearbox and making sure the gears and shafts are intact. Clean them out and repack them with fresh grease (lanolin or white lithium) I've done a couple of motor patch ups like this and they aren't hard to do once you've taken one apart yourself.

have you tested the charger

Hello, Nancy - I suggest you pre-drill holes in the wood -- evenly spaced holes, all in a row, so that later on you can drill screws into the concrete anchors you will drill into the brick or the concrete between the bricks. After pre-drilling holes in the wood, measure how far apart the holes are. Determine where on the brick wall you want to drill to insert the concrete anchors (which will accept the screws to hold the wood on the wall). Mark on the brick wall where the drilling for the anchors (to match up with the holes drilled in the wood) should be. Drill into the brick or cement between the bricks. Then, assuming the hole measurements on the wood match up to the drilled holes in the wall, attach the wood to the wall with the proper anchor bolts/screws. You may find these directions for attaching a ledger board to a masonry wall instructive: https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-attach-a-ledger-board-to-a-masonry-wall Best wishes.

An internet search shows up several locations for this User Manual.

First thing is to try a non conductive "switch cleaner"
easily available at a store like screwfix or toolstation.
They come in an aerosol type can,much like wd*0.
Due to it being non-conductive, having power to the drill makes no difference.

If that is not an option, monetary wise, then!
First of all,remove the battery or power source, use your or your pals WD*0 and power the fluid into the switch via the straw, but do not operate the drill or even attempt to attach the battery/power for at least 6-7 mins.
If these 2 attempts do not work you need a new switch,I have never had to replace a switch on a drill in over 20 years.
one of these methods has always worked.
Cheers
Crazydick

Milwaukee 1680 20 Parts List and Diagram 407C eReplacementParts com https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-66-1381-2-Inch-8-Inch-Spindle/dp/B000CSWE0E

Contact Manufacturer to request local assistance in your country. https://www.assaabloyhospitality.com/en/aah/com/contact/contact-us/ https://www.assaabloyhospitality.com/en/aah/com/contact/contact-us

i think they are just held in with a magnet, should pull right out. I've had to use pliers in some cases for my bits. often times if a bit is stuck tho tapping the tip not too ******* a concrete surface gets it unstuck.

Please provide more detail such as manufacturer and model number. You may also want to Google this information and look for a user manual. I am sure the information you are seeking will be included.

Waterpik batteries do stop charging overtime. The batteries are cheap to replace. However, they are not easy to replace unless you have some know how with soldering.http://ionicindustries.com/repair-guides/waterpik-wp-450-battery-replacement-guide/

if the brushes don't slide in and out freely without the spring attached then you might have to sand them a tiny bit. this happened with a bunch of my makita brushed tools.

failing battery

well take them back apart and look for your mistake