Top 20 Irwin SDS-Plus Hammer Drill Bit 6in.L, 3/8" dia., ModelNo. 322024 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

if you try to fix it you could void the warranty

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmjfZ64LApE go and watch

Contact Northern directly to inquire.

possible bad switch

really??

Available here https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=ryobi+p102+battery&gclid=Cj0KCQiAifz-BRDjARIsAEElyGJ30Vv06S9XfGdN4F3lCUk6ew2MUOZaFEdfHoayx-9pVxZh3myToeAaAtDxEALw_wcB&hvadid=249769096490&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000809&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11753836365116415444&hvtargid=kwd-366019119797&hydadcr=25352_10276036&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_8tnky76zbd_e Videos here on replacing the internal cells https://www.google.com/search?q=ryobi+P102+battery ..

Safest is to read the manual if you have one or download one if you haven't. You need to know the meaning of the flashing lights. If it turns out it means the battery is faulty - I have known battery chargers to refuse to charge a battery that has been fully discharged and after I had taken the battery to pieces and got some charge into the cells by diverse means it went on for another year or two. It is best to use and charge even if it has only a few minutes discharge. Top up charges don't heat the cells like a full charge does and it is the heat that shortens battery life.

They usually smart chargers so once fully charged they revert to a trickle charge to keep them full.

You are facing a puzzle many owners of cordless tools face - often! It could be either - unless you have a friend or neighbour or a nearby supplier that has the same model charger or battery to allow some swapping around. The charger I have seen looks like an old ni-cad type charger rather than a modern lithium type. Ni-cad batteries self discharge and if allowed to become discharged through lack of use they soon become useless if not quickly recharged. Generally ni-cad batteries should be checked and recharged if necessary each month. Young batteries shouldn't need charging much during storage but the older they become the more they will self discharge until they are useless. Only you know the history of the battery you want to recharge. The one hour fast charger has a certain amount of intelligence and safety built in and if working correctly will reject batteries it thinks will be unsafe to charge. If the battery will dismantle easily you could check each of the six cells with a voltmeter. If one or two are completely dead while the others have voltage it suggests the battery is past it...

Request the wiring diagram for model DR330 directly from B&D.

1. Defective batteries 2. Defective charger

Some generic label engineered cordless drills used generic batteries - these are mostly the types supplied with a slow charger rather than the 1 hour fast charger though some of the larger tool distributors have managed to source some fairly respectable cordless tools at keen prices, the supplier provides them mostly as throw away tools. The trouble is, few suppliers of those lower price point tools provide spare batteries. If a replacement battery can't be obtained as a spare part from the supplier, for practical purposes it leaves 3 choices... Scrap the drill and start again. Recondition the battery yourself. Have the battery reconditioned by a specialist.

Probably not - I have tried and the industry considers even expensive chargers to be throw away items along with cordless tool batteries. There are plenty of generic circuits available for chargers of all types of battery but none for commercial models. Good cordless tool battery chargers tend to have a good deal of logic circuitry to provide them with an intelligent testing capability and prevent the "attempted" charging of faulty batteries. This makes fault diagnosis difficult and puts the process beyond the scope of the home repairer.

Reversible drills sort of threw a spanner in the works of established practices of providing a right-hand threaded spindle onto which a chuck was simply spun into place and the final tightening would take place in use. Adopting the Jacob's Taper would have provided the answer but in production cost always has the final word. In desperation some of those early reversing manufacturers opted for adhesive, making replacement practically impossible. Computer aided manufacture hit the industry like a storm and provided the answer by making it economic to provide a left hand threaded counterbore in the conventional threaded spindle allowing standard (or slightly modified) chucks to be retained by a 5mm LH countersunk screw when reversing. The system works well for drill/drivers but the counter screw often becomes damaged and impossible to remove with combi drills used extensively for hammer drilling. Removing a standard keyed chuck has always been fairly simple but keyless chucks, especially low cost keyless chucks fitted to cordless drills can be a huge problem. Corded drills usually have enough torque to be driven in reverse with the chuck held tightly in a vice. Over the years I have failed to remove one chuck, destroyed a couple of chucks in order to remove them and even had to dismantle a couple of drills so the shaft could be gripped in vice jaws...

Forward/reverse slider failure?

Maybe looking for something like this will find you what you want. https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-End-sleeves-Crimping-Electrician-Contractors/dp/B07LCF39W9/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=Ferrule+Crimping+Tool&qid=1593809063&sr=8-23

I took a similar battery apart and was surprised to discover a surprising amount of electronics inside. Clearly the modern lithium type of cordless tool battery is very different from the earlier ni-cad type. The modern charger for lithium type batteries have electronics inside that qualify them as "intelligent". They can "see" inside the battery and will refuse to charge any battery it is not safe to charge, either because there is a danger to the charger or because there is a danger of fire or explosion of the battery. Unless you are confident the charger has a fault it is best to believe it. It certainly isn't wise to attempt "jump starting" it due to the relatively large amount of current contained in such a battery. There are dotted around the world, companies that will recondition cordless tool batteries much cheaper in many cases than the manufacturer's replacements.

Remove the battery and place it somewhere warm and when dry connect it to the charger to ensure it is still ok. The mower will probably need partially dismantling in order to thoroughly dry the internal electrical/electronic parts with a hair dryer or similar - it can take a considerable time and if you are lucky the water + power won't have damaged the electronics...

open check as far as you can and look inside if there is a screw it needs removed all reversable drill have them and it will be a left hand thread

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VUTRk9Ng9w