20 Most Recent Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Garage Door Opener Wireless Keypad Model 976LM Security+ - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Anthony, Offhand I don't remember but I think I have the receipt in the garage. It's about -5 below here and 2:13 AM and I should be in bed, but I'll look tomorrow and post what it cost, OK?

Anthony, Since It's humming you know it's getting juice. It could be the the same exact problem I had on our Sears Liftmaster. First remove the cover and check the set of nylon gears to see if they try to move when you push the button. If so, the motor is probably ok. The gears operate off a worm drive and come as a set, and sometimes they jam or are worn out. If the motor runs after pulling the gearset it's good. Go to Chamberlain for the parts. They're cheaper and faster than Sears. If want a diagram, for that model google one form their website and you can see how to take it apart. Ken

Sounds like it might be a resistance (weight) issue. It's not the temperature since mine opens when my garage temperature is 15-20 degrees (outside temp even lower).

The light will stay on as long as you are in the garage and it detects body heat. If you leave the garage the light should turn off.

See if anything here helps.

Limited range of your remote controls could be related to radio frequency interference that comes from something in your home or in the surrounding environment. Certain electrical devices can radiate interference; this could be almost anything that is plugged into an electrical outlet.


Please keep in mind that the device can be brand new, or can be an item that has been in use for quite a while. Also, the item may continue to function properly as far as you are able to tell. The only problem with the item may be that it has started to broadcast the interference, with no other symptoms noted.


Some devices are more likely to generate interference than others. This includes TV cable, cable amplifiers, surge protectors, fluorescent lights, battery charging devices (power tools, golf carts, etc.), anything that utilizes a timer (sprinkler systems, lights, alarm systems, etc.), and a myriad of others. If the problem seems sporadic, we can safely assume that the device responsible for the interference is only being operated during these times. Again, please keep in mind that the age of the device does not determine if it is capable of broadcasting unwanted interference. Any electrical device can be the source of the problem.


The first step is replacing the battery in your remote. If the range on your remote does not improve, remove the wall control wires from the overhead unit. If the range does not improve you will likely need to replace the remote control. After replacing the remote, or if you have other remotes programmed in to the opener, and the range problem still exists, please proceed to the Power Down test.


Multiple garage doors:
If you have two garage door units and one is working just fine, you will need to start by unplugging the good unit. This will help determine if the unit with no range starts to function properly. If the range comes back to the bad unit then you will need to replace the logic board on the unit that was unplugged as it is emitting an RF signal that is over powering the other garage door opener. If the range doesn not improve after the “good” unit has been unplugged, replace the batteries and try programming some additional remotes to determine if the existing remotes are the issue. If the extra remotes do not have any range then you would need to replace the receiver logic board in the “bad” unit.


Power Down test:
To isolate potential sources of interference, turn the circuit breaker off to the garage and plug the garage door opener into an extension cord from another room. If the range improves, then the interference is coming from a device in the garage. If no improvement is seen follow the same procedure, this time turning off the circuit breakers to your home, with the exception of the garage and test the remote controls. If improvement is noted, turn the circuit breakers back on, one by one, until the range problem resurfaces. This will allow you to narrow down what room the problem device is in. You will have to go from there to isolate it further, by unplugging and re-plugging the items in that room.


If you are unable to determine any source of interference, then the receiver logic board in the overhead unit will need to be replaced.

It sounds like the keypad is not compatible with the main garage door. Make sure the keypad is the correct only for that model number opener. Older models will not work with newer openers and vice versa.

Here is the information I think you need.

There is an accessory available from Sears and some home stores called a "low clearance bracket kit". It can be used on any sectional garage door that has clearance problems due to low ceilings or obstructions, allowing the garage door opener track to be mounted much closer to the top of the garage door than is usually possible.
The top guides (which hold the uppermost garage door rollers) on your door are replaced with specially designed brackets that cause the top of the top panel of the door to move inward further as the door opens than standard top guides. The result is that the top of the panel does not rise as high as the door opens, giving the additional ceiling clearance.
I have a photo of this item on this page: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infgar/infgar1f.html

It sounds like limits and force have not been programed. If they have, go through the programming instructions again, then once complete press the push bar.

There is always the possibility that it has just quit but you can try programming it. Locate the smart/learn button on the rear of the motor unit near where all those white wires go. Press and immediately release this and then walk over to the keypad and key in your 4 digit code and press enter.

If you have the model opener with the battery backup you may need a new battery.

The beeping usually indicates a discharged or bad battery. There is also a LED on the rear panel that will glow orange when the battery is low. If it glows red you need to service technician. You may have to remove a light lens to see the LED.

call an overhead door company. the springs are under high tension. Better safe than sorry.

First thing to do is check the door springs. Make sure one of them isn't broken. Then release the door from the opener and open and close it manually to check for weight. If a spring is broken and the door is not uncommonly heavy look for a force adjustment on the opener. Increase the force just a bit.

clicking can be an overheated motor from trying to much. other idea is troley opened too far and lodged against bolt on rail by motor.

Remove the cover from the motor unit and check the drive gear. It is a white nylon gear just in front of the motor and is probably stripped. The part number is 41A2817.

The easiest way is to find a Liftmaster dealer in the yellow pages and call them. They will let you know what information they need. They also should explain to you how to program it without a service call involved. But just in case:

Locate the smart/learn button on the rear of the motor unit near where all those white wires go. Press and hold the button on your new remote while you press and immediately release the smart/learn button.

The green eye receives the the signal from the Amber side. When is not on the sensors won't work. As far as the cold chamberlain did have a few issues with sensors not working or intermediate issues in cold weather. Their solution was to replace the sensors. But before you do that check everywhere the wires are stapled. Make sure that they are not pinching the wires.

An easy fix would be to check the batteries. I apologize if this is something you have already tried, but sometimes people just do not think of something that can be so easily overlooked. If the batteries are not the problem, I can only steer you to one of the following sites: www.aaaremotes.com/lifwirkeymod.html absolutedoor.net/info/operator-programming/ or liftmaster.garage-door-opener-parts.com/keyless_entry_systems.asp You may have to copy and paste these links if they are not "active," (they are "active" if they are blue and are underlined when your cursor hovers over them.

Both the older genie and a newer chamberlain (3-4 yrs old) both run on 390Mhz frequency. sounds like you will have to change your receivers on both operators (365LM 315Mhz) then get 3 button remote so you can program both doors on one remote.

Make sure the battery is good. If it still wont open the door the keypad is bad.