20 Most Recent Amana ARB2259CS Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

did you try plugging something else into that plug to see if it works or is breaker off

Hi kiverson1,

Here are common reasons for you to encounter the issue with your machine.

* Reminder: Before attempting any testing or repairs remember your safety.

1. Check the shutoff arm - An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.

The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position.For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.

2. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.

3. The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts!

Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary. The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using Fixya.

Checckwater pressure.The 1/4" water supply line should deliver at least 9 ounces of water in 5 seconds. If not, the water pressure is low. Make sure the dispenser is notlocked. Some models have a lock feature that deactivates the dispenser andcontrol buttons. The lock button is located on the dispenser front cover.This feature controls unintentional dispensing. Press the"Unlock" or "Locked" button to reactivate the dispenser andallow dispenser function. You may need to hold the button for2 to 3 seconds. A clogged or incorrectly installedwater filter will reduce the water flow to the water dispenser. Check for aproblem with the filter by removing the filter and operating the dispenser. Ifwater begins to flow, then the filter is either clogged or incorrectlyinstalled. A clogged filter will need to be replaced. Thanks.

The problem is most likely either the defrost timer, and/or the defrost heater element(s) are faulty. The problem is actually that the defrost heater elements are not functioning properly and the evaporator core is actually freezing up and blocking the air flow through the evaporator core and also freezing up the thermal sensor, and when that happens there is no longer enough cold air being circulated through the refrigerator (that is actually how the unit operates and air must be able to flow through the evaporator core and then be circulated throughout the refrigerator to properly function) and as a result the refrigerator stops functioning and food can even thaw out in the freezer although the freezer seems to be iced up. (Usually at the rear wall where the evaporator core is located)

(Air flow through the evaporator core and cold air circulation and re-circulation through the refrigerator is performed by the air circulation fan and it also must be functioning)

Be sure to only use a blow dryer (with a towel on the bottom of the freezer) to thaw out the evaporator core and do not use any hard or sharp objects or the evaporator core can be damaged. The defrost timer can be located inside of the refrigerator itself, (see lower image) or it can be mounted outside usually either behind the air intake cowl or kick panel at the front base of the refrigerator, or most likely located behind the service panel on the rear of the refrigerator, and usually if the defrost timer is turning then it is most likely working, however the defrost timer can move very slowly and you can place a mark on the timer and the housing to check after about fifteen minutes to see if the position on the defrost timer has changed. The deforst timer on newer digital models can be built into the circuit board and is not a seperate timer mechanism. The defrost heater coils can easily be checked by dis-connecting them and using an ohm meter, and a high or an infinite reading would indicate a faulty heater coil, however most of the time they are easily identified as being bad just by looking at them.

Here are some images that should be similar to your situation to help assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.

Hi,
freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Hold the door switch closed like the door is closed for testing an inside fan. The fan could be so quiet you might not hear it. Wet your finger and feel for air movement. Like a Washington politician, you might be able to feel it.

The defrost circuit showing a completed circuit means the heater and safety stat are OK I believe.
I would be more inclined to believe the board its self is at fault if this is correct. Remove one or more of the wires going to the defrost heater and retry it. this way you have an open circuit your sure of and the result you get on the board means this part of the circuit logic is operating correctly.
And the test 2 "Compressor/Condenser Fan Test" is talking about the fan motor on the outside by the compressor not the inside fan. That is the evaporator fan inside.

Other things that may help you:The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise til it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into a defrost.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus wont let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician.

If this helps you please rate me as high as you can and thank you for using fixya.l

ck here... https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/amana-refrigerator-sxd22s2w-repair/sxd22s2w-leaking.html But before throwing parts at it give their tech 877# a hollar.. Best to you

What tends to happen is that service techs have certain common generic parts in their van, and rather than ordering a part to fit and have a return visit, they fit what they have. Parts seem to be readily available. The compressor is listed but no HP Specs. The bottom show another model and that R134A (1/4HP) is different to R134 (1/5 HP). https://www.google.com/search?q=amana+arb1917csr+parts+diagram https://www.google.com/search?q=Tecumseh+TP122AR003B8 ..

Install Water Filtration Cartridge (some
models)
a. Remove bypass cartridge from water filter head in rear
right corner of refrigerator section. Twist cartridge
counterclockwise 1/4 turn and pull down to remove.
Save bypass for use at a later date.
b. See Water Filtration System Installation and
Operating Instructions provided with water filter
cartridge for filter installation and operation.

Sharla, It could possibly be the ice maker rod that tells the ice maker whether it's full or not. If it's in the down position it wants to make ice and it'll make a clicking noise. Lift the rod up if it's down. Hopefully this helps!? Best to you.

I'd like to know how you determine the age based on the info inside my Amana. I double checked the numbers. Model AFI2538AEB4 Serial KY2886165

1. Check the thermostat: Make sure the thermostat is set to a temperature that is low enough to cool the refrigerator. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may need to be replaced.
2. Check the condenser coils: The condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator should be clean and free of dust and debris. If the coils are dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to cool properly. Use a vacuum cleaner or a brush to clean the coils.
3. Check the fan motor: If the fan motor is not running, the refrigerator will not be able to cool properly. Check if the fan motor is receiving power and if it's spinning freely. If the fan motor is faulty, it will need to be replaced.
4. Check the start relay: The start relay helps the compressor start up. If the start relay is faulty, the compressor may not start and the refrigerator will not be able to cool properly. If the start relay is faulty, it will need to be replaced.
5. Check the compressor: If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator will not be able to cool properly. Check if the compressor is receiving power and if it's running. If the compressor is faulty, it will need to be replaced.

It's possible that the issue could be with a micro switch located on the ice maker cabinet that is activated when the prong on the back of the ice/auger tray is inserted. It's also possible that there could be another issue with the dispenser, such as a problem with the wiring or a malfunctioning component. I would recommend checking the wiring and testing any other micro switches or components that are related to the dispenser to see if they are functioning properly. If you are unsure how to do this, I would recommend consulting the user manual or contacting a qualified technician for further assistance.

check to see if defrost fan working

possible bad display control board

I have an Amana AS12575GRB01, the cover to the light bulb on the fridge side is mounted on the top inside back right corner. Having problems removing it

There are several videos on line about buzzzing fridges. This is one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2TVZazGLJ0