Heat guns are typically a bad idea as most people will hold it in one place too long melting,or disfiguring the plastic on the icemaker or worse,the cabinet.
Removing and using hot water is always the best way!
The usual problem for small, or hollow ice cubes is a bad saddle valve. There really isn't a good saddle valve in my opinion as they always clog either from mineral or rusting from the inside out.
What you want to do is find your shutoff valve. Sometimes in the basement, or under a sink if it is close by the refrigerator and look to see how it is hooked up. If it has a valve like the attached pic then it would be best to call in a plumber and have him replace it with a toilet style ball valve which will never restrict water flow and will always work!
The two main types of saddle valves are self pierce (absolute garbage) and drill type. If you look at where the valve straps to the pipe it will either have a round or square gasket. The square gasket ones are the worst and 99.5% of the time are the problem.
There should be some kind of drain at bottom of freezer compartment to collect and run off any condensate that collects during defrost cycle.. Clean out the drain and snake out the line that leads from it. Right now the liquid is collecting where it should not and it will leak out the gasket when you have enough of it.
A light switch failure can leave the light on even with the door closed, raising the temp. to over 40 degrees. Firstly, make sure doors are not sagging creating a switch activation with the door closed. If that checks good, replace the door switch. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
Hello if it is leaking black fluid from the bottom of the fridge the most likely fault is the drain hole in the cooler is blocked stopping
the defrost going down to the heater to evaporate ,just clear the hole with a coat hanger wire or something similar
tk
Frost free Refrigerators go into defrost cycle every 6-12 hours depending on model.
If frost become visible, on of the defrost system (Defrost timer,Defrost heater, Defrost thermostat) components has failed. The most common failure is the defrost time. If you can locate the time, try to advance it (rotating) into defrost and if you see water coming into the drain-pan within a couple of minutes, than the Heater and thermostat are OK and you need to replace the timer (relatively easy job). If no defrost occur , you better call a tech and avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Caution - Some defrost timer are incorporated into the Ice Maker mechanism are hard to test and must replace the entrie Ice Maker
Place the number in BING or GOOGLE search. Amazon or some other will be presented to choose from. Find you part and get an idea of what it will cost you. Look up your nearest appliance parts distributer also. Most times they can offer advice as well. They see it all with their customers. I hope this helps you.
You will have to look in the freezer section and see if there are holes in the left side wall to mount the icemaker and also if you look at the left rear of freezer section to see if there is a spot for the harness to plug in. Also look on the model serial tag inside unit to see if they listthe part number to add on icemaker kit.
There may be a few sources for water coming out of your unit:
1 the ice maker connection has failed or been damaged by freezer being closed with too much in it. I would also check the filter for the unit. On mine it is in the upper right corner of the top.
2 The defrost circuit is in overdrive. If your freezer door is not completely closed this will ice up the coils and your defrost circuit will melt more ice than it can get rid of. Check and make sure you are getting a good seal on your freezer door. If you take everything out of the freezer you may be able to get under the back cover and look at your coils (looks like a aluminum radiator ) in back. It is only 4 screws but you made need to remove your icemaker also. Might not be a bad idea just to check it out anyway.
I would start with the easiest, make sure your door seal is good and change your filter
Perhaps you better put this question in Google. Then you even can get answers from stores close to you.
Although most questions and answers are in your language, people who are answering are all over the world. And what good is it for you to hear what this fridge costs in India or Pakistan?
That sounds like a defective=> 67001036 Defrost Timer
slowing down and sticking in it's defrost position on the timer cam. The defrost timer can be found inside the fresh food section behind the controls. See=> ARB2214CB Controls location #12 in the photo HERE Questions? Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911ARB2214CB User Manual
I agree with everyone else here that it is probably a defrost problem but if it was only three times this year I would also check your defrost timer and make sure it is working. In fact I would do that first. The contacts on these go out and will not start your defrost cycle or may leave it on too long which will warm your fridge up like it's heated.
Go to Lowes, Home Depot or other hardware store... purchase a Grab-It screw extractor (very inexpensive and a great addition to any toolbox!) Start with the SMALLEST of the 3 extractors and remove the broken metal as if it were a nail or screw that has a broken or stripped head. NOTE! Be sure to read and follow the Grab-It instructions regarding the forward/reverse for the drill!
It may be possible that the lower plastic bushing on the hinge is worn out. This is an easy fix. Get the model number and bring it to you nearest appliance parts dealer. They will help you find the right replacement part. The door comes off with 3 screws on the top i think. Take door off and replace worn parts. This should work. It worked on my fridge.