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Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers
The bottom freezer is not
If there is no cooling at all , check to see if compressor is running, if not check for power at compressor if no power see if themostat is open
Ice on the bottom of the freezer. Covers the
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.You have a frozen drain line. You need to remove the back panel in freezer and remove ice on bottom and pour boiling water until drain starts to drain. Do not touch or poke the aluminum part back there at all...
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
Blub in fridge has died - how do i open plastic
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.There are two tabs on the back of the cover you pull toward you and the back drops down and cover comes out.
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I have been without the
Definitely Clean your coils With a good coil brush, they are about 4.00 at the hardware store.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the question.
THE FRIDGE AND FREEZER IS NOT COLD OR WORKING
Check that your condenser grill is clear and clean, to make sure you have the air circulation around it as required. If that isn't the problem, the next likely problem is that the frost free has stopped working and you have ice build up.
I would suggest you manually defrost the unit and see if it then will function. If it does, then you will need to order and install the defrost unit for your refrigerator. But you can use the refrigerator for several weeks before the ice build up does the same thing.
Freezer is cold but it
When it comes to
refrigerators I always have a most likely to least likely formula to try to solve the reason of why the freezer or fresh food compartment is or is not cooling properly. So knowing that the cold air comes most times from the freezer compartment I would look to see if the fan inside that compartment may just be
slowing down because it is possible there is frost building behind the freezer wall due to most likely defrost not taking place and creating a huge block of snow and ice blocking air circulation.. Ice will show on the outside wall of freezer also if possibly the defrost heater is burned out. There are so great testing tutoral'son the following links! So now having your model number that most people don't think about I will look to see just what type of defrost system your model has=>
ABB1927DE EVAPORATOR AREA and Rollers location 16 in photo. That part is your models=>
67002135 Defrost Heater
Amana, ABB1927DE User Manual
Sometimes the 67003636 Evaporator Fan Motor goes bad but thawing is more severe when the evap. fan goes bad and may be tricky
stopping and starting on its own before
true-ly burning out=>
67003636 Evaporator Fan Motor
here is a Amana ABB1927DE Wiring Diagram=>
HERE
67003426 Defrost Thermostat Hey I know there is a lot of material here so I will be here if you should have questions, Thanks,
Sea Breeze
There is water under my drawers with ice build up.
The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.
Fridge is not cold
Hello,
The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.
The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons
The fan or blower has failed.
The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.
The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working
Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.
For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it's own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.
So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.
The fan or blower
The timer device
The electric heater coil
By methodically checking these parts you can isolate your problem and fix it.
We have an almost 4
OK the
silent defrost pool drop problem. This is one that seem to be playing hide but most are just that leaving everyone wondering what caused the problem. This may be a little tricky but try to locate from what door thee leak is coming from. Also below the refrigerator there are possibilities also liker a crack in the defrost condensate pan near compressor or rven someting I found around mine a couple weeks ago. Someone had placed an object on the top near back of refrigerator and when it fell it became tangeled in the water supply hose to ice maker. I first noticed a small pool to the front and right of floor in the front of refrigerator.The ice bin was full so I did not think that a hose would be loose but it was and cause a pool of water about twice a day. Returned hose to its connection and have had no problems since. You may need to a little detective work yourself but I have found that is the best way. Here are a couple links I want you to read over and a short clip on how to fix a leaking refrigerator, I really hope to be of some help here, Thanks
Sea Breeze
Click here to continue=>
Leaking Refrigerator's Just What May Be Happening and then again here=>
Leaking Refrigerator's
Refrigerator will not cool. Freezer works fine. It
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
OR
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Freezer is working well but the refrigerator is
sounds like the coil is iced up maybe any signs of water dripping in refrigerator. if not turn freezer knob down to low and turn freezer knob up to high and try this. and a rating would help. thanks.
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