20 Most Recent Amana SXD524VW Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Good day,
Lot's of reasons for this type of failure. Just follow the step by step solution process. It will get you there.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Hi,
If the door is lined up well,maybe a little vegetable oil on a Q Tip put on the squeaky part will help. Just a suggsetion.
Wayne

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

The water inlet valve on the back of the unit where the water supply comes in can have a slow leak and will cause ice to buildup and block the fill tube. Disconnect the ice maker line from the valve and watch to see if it has a slow drip. It doesn’t take much to eventually block the fill tube.
The valve can leak because of sediment in the water preventing it from closing or low water pressure.

Hi,

There are a couple more things to check, Look in the freezer on the back wall behind the shelves and food near the bottom back see if there is a frost build up. If so we have a defrost problem, most likely a heater that is causing the defrost cycle to not come on. This can cause no or little cooling.

The next thing to check is if the fan that cools the coils under the refrigerator is running. (on some models) If the coils are on the back you will not have a fan.

If both of these check okay and the compressor is running then you have a failure in the sealed system, usually a refrigerant (freon) leak. If the refrigerator is pretty new then it may be worth fixing as a sealed system repair usually runs over 400.00 depending on where the leak came from.

Let me know if you have questions.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Part 1541 on this diagram is your timer. It's under the front behind the kick panel. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=21463&diagram_id=646025#d646025

Need condenser fan for unit to cool properly

change it

Hi,
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote that will help you figure this out...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

heatman101

If it worked fine to them, look at the heating and cooling C. in the back of the frig. Depending on how you transported it and how many bumbs you hit could of damanged them

I noticed your model number calls for a 220 volt and 50 cycle service. Are you in the UK or an area that uses this voltage? Anyway fill ice maker with tap water and let freeze. If the ice dumps after freezing that wil be the water control valve part number Click Here=> D7827204 and id it is the thermostat inside the ice maker the part number Click Here=> D7846305 neither page has photo. Here is you refrigerators Service Manual=> SXD524VW go to page 66 and the manual has very detailed test procedures for the ice maker. You can also go through my site=> GE Artica Profile Technical Information and click on Repair
Clinic.com Banner at top of page. The just enter the part numbers in his search feature. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com
Thanks, Sea Breeze

if there is no power to the compressor you may need to check the overload relay and ptc starter.
1.10377023 over load relay
2.10097202 PTC starter
3 10513803 evap fan motor.
the compressor may be bad unless you can get power to it then cant really tell.
have you held the switch closed in the freezer to check the evap fan.
just make sure you have power going to the compressor the least expensive thing to change are the first two parts.

You need to replace the dual solenoid one side is for the water the other is for the ice.

ur serervoir assembly is probably cracked

there is a chamce there is frozen water in the supply tube in the door this can be cleared using a blow dryer

The dispenser assembly comes apart from the front. It should give you access to the waterline as it comes up from the bottom.
Eric

Replace Icemaker or repair it Manual HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

the unit has a higher heat load than normal after being off for a time. the compressor draws alot of amps and could easily trip a ground fault cb. The breaker should have a ground wire hooked into the back of the breaker that is connected to the nuetral or ground bar. this wire should be at least 12 guage wire if it is on a 15amp breaker

to many cubes trying to make it through at once