20 Most Recent Amana Easy Reach AFD2535DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

that is going to be an automatic defrost problem ,the timer or the heater or the limit switch .locate the defrost timer and advance it till it clicks wait see if the ice melts if so you have a bad timer

could bew a couple of reasons bad icemaker or watervalve

If we both are on the correct subject then it is possible the water control valve on back of refrigerator is not working. If ice tray is dry then fill with water from a cup and let freeze. If the ice maker dumps the ice let me know and we will go from there. Sea Breeze

pls explain more which problem u face

hi there,

you can try to this store to order the parts to be replaced part number & description was also indicated in HERE.

just let me know, for further assistance,

it sounds as though there is an cold airflow problem in the fridge and as science states the cold air will drop down to the bottom of the fridge. check that any circulation fans are not jammed with ice or faulty. if not sure where to go do a defrost for 36 hours and check on all the functions after that. tone.

Check for a faulty thermostat it is responsable of shutting down the compressor when it reaches your desire temp.

Air is stabilizing between the fridge and freezer.
Do not worry.

Check the freezers fan.it blows the cold air to the ref.side through the ducts.

Inlet tube is plug at discharge end w/ a little frozen water.

Hair dryer will melt it.

Most likely evaporator coils are iced near solid...few hours unplugged would have helped just a little...needs major defrosting though.
The automatic defrost cycle will never fix it when it gets this bad...if it's still working yet.

I have one of these and have had to use heat gun/ hair dryer more than once to defrost it.

Probably the cause...which will need fixed or it will do it again sooner or latter...is the melted frost/ice goes down a little drain tube and dumps into tray to evaporate above coils...this tube gets plugged first with dust and then when melted frost drains and stands in tube the tube get plugged with frozen water.

You see it is important to unplug or fridge will self destruct.

Manual accorting to the help page of the amana manual . The defrost time is usually located under the unit close to the compressor. Often you can see the clock part go around through a hole in the cover.  I am betign that the defrost time is you problem.  If you can't here it or see it moving (the clock part that operates the cams) then it is defective. I have disassembles , cleaned and oiled defrost times in the past and have had good success restoring their function. 


http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=ARB2257CC&siteCd=AMA#owners_manuals

Manual is available at ManageMyHome.com. Drop the last letter from the Model number you have given.

As for the freezing issue, reply back after you have had a chance to review the manual and try their recommendations.

Chances are if they are getting cool but not cold-

1) the evaporator fan in the freezer is not running
2) Defrost heater has failed
3) Defrost sensor has failed
4) Defrost timer/refrigerator control has failed.

Check for ice build-up on the back wall of the freezer. If there is ice, unplug or turn the unit off for 6-8 hours with the doors open (put any food in a cooler with ice to maintain). Note water may come out of the refrigerator.
Plug the unit back in or turn it back on, close the doors, and check temperature after a couple of hours of operation. If all OK, you will need to have the above tested, or, if you know how to use a multimeter and can read a schematic/wiring diagram, I can instruct you on how to check the above.

either you ice maker is overflowing,(not likely but possible) or you have a clog in your drain behind hte rear cover, not allowing defrost water to drain away in to the pan under refrig instead flowing to bottom of freezer area. rempove the rear cover and thawe all ice, especially near the middle of hte aluminum oan yull find a clogged/frozen drain tube

Ice build-up inside refrigerator and cycling switch not functioning. Requires technician to take apart inside of refrigerator, clear ice and replace switch. Took my repair man about half hour to fix.

What you need is a new ice maker the front gear is not engaging the contacts, you can buy the front module only ( what u put the wire in to on the l & v contact ) but a whole new ice maker assy is the same price.

I may have found the problem. I pulled out the Fridge again. The odor was in the water pan.

What I found was that the cooling grills in the front was caked with dust. I vacumed this area but it was not until I got down with a flash light and saw this issue. I took a small duster that uses static to pull the dust out. There was a lot. I will see if the smell starts up again.

Usually it is one of two problems. Either the defrost timer is acting up ( staying on too long or not  going off soon enough. It is usually . More likely is a refrigerant leak. Her is a easy way to tell. the compressor whould be warm when running, not hot The coils that you cleaned shoud be warm at one end and change tempature as it goes to the other,but never cold at the top. If the compressor is hot or the condensor(coils) are cool the you likly have lost part of the charge. If that be the case you have a leak and if you have it serviced it is the law that they find and fix the leak m, not just charge it up.  It is now necesaary to have a EPA license to buy the refrigerant.  Sorry.